Chablis is the wine that converts Chardonnay skeptics to Chardonnay obsesssors. It’s the gateway from thinking you don’t like richness in white wine to all of a sudden craving that intensity of mouth-fulling flavor in every other glass you have. Chablis is capable of this impact because if its unique energy and wildly distinct flavor profile compared to other Chardonnays. For instance, there’s rarely the observation of oak on wines from Chablis. Sure, it might have been used to soften the wine, but you’ll almost never smell or taste vanillin or oak spice flavors through the liquid in the glass. The soil where Chablis grapes are grown impart such an intense depth of fruit and minerality that the character of the terroir is what always shines through.
Today we have two producers of the same name that can act as gateways themselves to your journey with Chablis and Chardonnay. Or perhaps you’re well along your way down this path and you need some refreshment? These producers have distinctly different styles in their Chablis, and should act as a perfect moment of contrast no matter your need.
Daniel-Etienne
This Defaix line is one of the oldest wine-producing families in Chablis, possessing thirty hectares of vineyards, predominantly situated in premier and grand cru locations. However, Daniel, the proprietor, selects only the finest parcels each year to designate as cru-level, opting to classify the remaining ones as villages. He ages these cru-level wines in tanks for eight to ten years, allowing for a slow natural settling process that obviates the need for filtration.
Daniel’s unique approach goes beyond lengthy aging. He exclusively relies on indigenous yeasts in his fermentations—a rare approach which results in fermentations lasting between three and six weeks, in contrast to the four-to-six days typically required with commercial varieties. Malolactic fermentation, occurring in a very cold cellar, occasionally extends over two years. Daniel favors prolonged contact with lees, primarily through gentle stirring during the initial two years and sporadically thereafter. Moreover, Daniel prioritizes patience over common practices like fining or filtration, allowing ample time for the lees to settle naturally. The result is a chardonnay expression that offers richness from lees contact rather oak, pronounced minerality and complexity from native yeast and long elevage, and precise expression of the oyster shell terroir of Chablis.
Bernard“Founded in 1959 with a mere two hectares, today the Domaine Bernard Defaix consists of fully 27 hectares (certified organic since 2009) whose fruit is supplemented with purchased grapes. Much of the production is fermented and matured in stainless steel, though the Chablis Vieilles Vignes and several of the premiers crus, as well as the Grand Cru Bougros and Vaudésir, see varying percentages of wood, the bulk of it used. The wines are lively and incisive, with good depth and concentration…”
-William Kelley, Wine Advocate In Bernard Defaix you’re going to find wines of real power and magnitude that haven’t been intentionally softened with age. The Kimmeridgian soils scream through Bernard’s Grand Cru bottlings which are unabashedly forward yet precise with their fruit flavors. The domain has been relentless in its pursuit to make vineyard agriculture even more sustainable and elevate their fruit quality to its highest potential. These are wines that have caught the attention of collectors around the world and our stock is rapidly depleting.
Available Defaix Wines:Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Les Lys, Chablis Premier Cru 2013 750ml $59 special, 24 bottles available
Producer Notes: “Les Lys is a tiny five-hectare cru of which Defaix owns three and a half hectares, all in a southeast-facing section called Clos du Roi—effectively a monopole of the domaine. Its poor soils of pure Kimmeridgian limestone produce perhaps the most complete and distinctive wine in Defaix’s cellar. Combining some of the power of the “Vaillon” with the chalky intensity of the “Côte de Lechet,” it ratchets up the aromatic complexity of the previous two, yet comes across as pure and harmonious. The palate offers ample richness, yet a sense of tension keeps it from feeling opulent, and the chiseled finish offers a strong sensation of dry extract.”
Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Vaillons, Chablis Premier Cru 2013 750ml $59 special, 24 bottles available
Producer Notes: “Grapes are planted in a steeply sloped (28 degrees) hill in the original parcel of Vaillon with a southeast exposure. The soil here is particularly influenced by iron deposits which yields a wine of fruit and spice and great density. The Vaillons is influenced by notes of soubois and, although lacking the elegance of its two companion 1er Crus, it is often the most generous wine of the domaine. The average age of the vines is 45 years.”
Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Vielles Vignes Chablis 2021 750ml $39 special, 23 bottles available
Winemaker Notes: “This cuvée is sourced from vines the age of which is between 45 and 70 years. A wine of exceptional concentration for a village level appellation, this wine is always a true expression of the kimmeridgian soils that make Chablis so distinctive. Aged for thirty months before release, Defaix’s old vines Chablis is richly dense with a classic pierre a fusil bouquet and long mineral-infused finish.” Domaine Bernard Defaix Bougros, Chablis Grand Cru 2022 750ml Displayed Price: $91.90, that’s $87.31 at 5% off and $82.71 at 10% off, 5 bottles in stock now
Decanter 93 points “Lovely sweetness of fruit, allied with the concentration expected from Chablis grand cru. Sunny and bright, but there is still lots of tension from the mineral notes and thread of acidity. Wood a bit evident at the moment but will settle down with time. This will be very fine once bottled and aged for a few years. Tank sample.”
Jasper Morris-Inside Burghound 93-95 points “Slightly paler colour and more of a green tint. The nose is more backward, white fruit, the minerals more in retirement. This explodes on the palate while retaining its essential core, now the minerals come out, pure white fruit, with the spice of Bougros. An excellent example. Drink from 2028-2037.”
Allen Meadows-Burghound 91-94 points “There is excellent Chablis typicity to the aromas of cool pear, mineral reduction and shellfish. The medium weight are definitely more powerful, especially long the robust finale. This is also quite good. 2030+.”
Domaine Bernard Defaix Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru 2022 750ml Displayed Price: $91.90, that’s $87.31 at 5% off and $82.71 at 10% off, 3 bottles in stock now
Decanter 93 points “Cool, restrained, nutty characters on the palate. A bit of wood is evident but there is plenty of balance and concentration to suggest this will develop very well once in bottle. Very good purity and ripeness of fruit. Tank sample.”
Jasper Morris-Inside Burghound 92-95 points “Pretty mid lemon yellow. This has the energy one wants. The fruit is ripe enough but does not distract from the essential oils in this case iodine. A fine long aftertaste with a certain sensuality. Drink from 2028-2036.”
Allen Meadows-Burghound 92-94 points “SWEET SPOT. A vague whiff of the exotic adds breadth to the aromas of lychee, dried apricot and iodine where a background hint of honeysuckle slowly emerges. The strikingly fine and precise yet nicely concentrated middleweight flavors flash a lovely minerality that adds a sense of lift on the balanced and equally long finish. 2030+.”
