Monday Newsletter 5-4-2020

The hill of Hermitage is both one of the most famous wine landmarks in the world and also so much more interesting than common lore purports it to be. The story goes that the hill of Hermitage was the home of a knight seeking solace from the horrors of the Crusades upon his return home. He planted the vineyards that would become Hermitage and then built a chapel to pray in and that building, the Chapel of Saint Christopher, is the defining marker of the hillside. The name, Hermitage, takes the name of the hermit’s refuge.

Jaboulet purchased the Chapel of Saint Christopher and the surrounding plot of land in 1919—possibly the choicest part of the whole appellation. This is the core of their blend for La Chapelle, which for many defines what Hermitage can be, though the entire line of wines Jaboulet makes from the AOC (and its neighbor) is exceptional.  These are big, dense wines, with loads of Hermitage character and those effortless Syrah flavors that just don’t quit on extremely long finishes.  Both 2017 (in stock now) and 2018 (arriving this fall) look to be incredible successes for the northern Rhone, with Jaboulet one of the standout producers.  

These are wines to stock up on and savor.

Just Arrived, In Stock Now:

Jaboulet Aine Chevalier de Sterimberg Hermitage Blanc, Rhone 2017 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 31 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 94-97 points “Jaboulet’s 2017 Hermitage Blanc Le Chevalier de Sterimberg is approximately two-thirds Marsanne and one-third Roussanne. Subtle notes of crushed stone and pencil shavings frame honey, pineapple and baking spices, all wrapped around a tensile core of tangerine and lime. In a year when no La Chapelle Blanc is being made, this is the top white Hermitage from Jaboulet, and it’s a beauty, with a silky texture and a long, mouthwatering finish.”

Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle, Rhone 2017 750ML ($219.95) $189 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 97-99 points “In need of serious air to open up, the 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle became more and more impressive the longer I kept it in the glass. At first it seemed a bit simple, if admirably plummy and rich, but by the time ten minutes had elapsed, it was showing off elegant notes of crushed stone, pencil shavings and cassis, while remaining full-bodied, rich and concentrated. It’s velvety and long on the finish, but something left me wanting a bit more. It’s surely a great La Chapelle, but will it reach that elusive triple-digit score?”
James Suckling 98 points “The icon is in dangerously seductive form. Such pristine dark cherries, blackberries and dark plums, dark chocolate, finely crushed spices and plenty of crushed dark stones on offer. The palate is very intense, very slick and fine tannins deliver an almost playfully soft impression. The oak is super integrated. Like La Maison Bleue, this approachability is an aberration, as it has immense power, concentration and length with such regal and alluring swagger at the finish. But there is so much more to come. Try from 2024, better after 2030.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 95-96 points “Brilliant magenta. A highly complex bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, cherry liqueur, incense and potpourri, while olive and exotic spice nuances build in the glass. Displays intense, alluringly sweet black/blue fruit, spicecake and violet pastille flavors that show sharp delineation and are braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Closes extremely long and precise, displaying a smoky, intensifying mineral quality and youthfully gripping tannins that build steadily.”

Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Maison Bleue, Rhone 2017 750ML ($69.95) $59.50 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 94-96 points “Full-bodied, creamy and supple, the 2017 Hermitage La Maison Bleue looks to be a thrilling Hermitage to drink over the next 10-15 years. It’s loaded with mixed blueberries and raspberries, adds subtle notes of mocha and baking spices and picks up a savory hint of black olives on the long, silky finish. Don’t make the mistake of thinking only the La Chapelle is worth drinking, this should be a real beauty when it’s released next year.”
James Suckling 94 points “This is utterly delicious and has a very plush and sweetly fruited core of flavor with a sweepingly fleshy, rich and quite plush feel. The tannins are very fine here; sleek and assertive, they seem to suggest early drinking. It’s so balanced, too. However, this deserves to be reserved for later, as there’s a lot more to come. Try from 2024.”

Jaboulet Aine Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone 2017 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 94-96 points “From a scorcher of a vintage that had tiny yields, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Domaine De Thalabert offers a deep purple color as well as a classic Thalabert bouquet of black fruits, black olive, iodine, and peppery herbs. It’s a rich, rounded, sumptuous beauty that has plenty of sweet fruit, moderate tannins, and a great finish. It’s not going to match the 2015, but it’s a rocking wine I’d be thrilled to drink.”

Arriving This Fall:

Paul Jaboulet Aine Chevalier de Sterimberg Hermitage Blanc, Rhone 2018 750ML ($79.95) $61.90 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 94 points “This is two-thirds marsanne and one-third roussanne and it sees some demi-muid elevage. Very fresh, peach and pear aromas with a focused, ripe and juicy palate that wields glycerol and smooth fruit flesh. Long finish with pears, white peaches and melon. Very even. Drink or hold.”

Paul Jaboulet Aine Domaine Mule Blanche Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, Rhone 2018 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “Burgundian notes of crushed citrus, white flowers, salty minerality, orange pith, and honeysuckle all emerge from the 2018 Crozes-Hermitage Mule Blanc, and it’s fresh, medium to full-bodied, concentrated and elegant on the palate. Give it a year or two.”

Paul Jaboulet Aine Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone 2018 750ML ($37.95) $29.90 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “Although the fruit sourcing has changed from the old days, the 2018 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert remains a solid offering in the Jaboulet lineup. Violets accent blackberries and plums on the nose, while the palate is full-bodied, lush and velvety, underscored by doses of salinity and licorice on the lengthy finish.”
Jeb Dunnuck 92-94 points “The 2018 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert comes from deeper, pebbly soils and is a full-bodied, opulent wine. Notes of blackcurrants, tobacco leaf, ground pepper, and melted licorice all flow to a full-bodied wine that has tons of baby fat as well as sound underlying structure.”

Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle, Rhone 2018 750ML ($219.95) $189 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 98-100 points “Jaboulet’s 2018 Hermitage La Chapelle features scents of crushed stone, violets and cassis. It’s a classic trio, backed by a wine that’s full-bodied, rich and powerful yet also airy, somehow carrying intense plum and black olive flavors without any sense of heaviness or excess weight. Then the wine finishes long and softly dusty, with tannins that accentuate its savory character, picking up delicious hints of licorice at the very end. The proportion of new oak has been trimmed back to a very reasonable 20% and is hardly noticeable in the wine.”
Jeb Dunnuck 97-99 points “A deep, powerful, primordial wine (which is exactly what you’d expect for a great vintage of this cuvée), the inky hued 2018 Hermitage La Chapelle offers tons of crème de cassis as well as a liquid rock-like minerality, peppery herbs, burning embers, and graphite aromas and flavors. The palate mirrors the intensity of the bouquet and is full-bodied, concentrated, and tight, yet still packs a huge amount of baby fat. The 2018 is a beautifully pure, balanced, massively endowed La Chapelle that will need a decade of cellaring and keep for 3-4 decades with no problems.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Maison Bleue, Rhone 2018 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Jeb Dunnuck 94-96 points “The 2,000-case 2018 Hermitage Maison Bleue comes from the eastern side of the appellation and is a much more fleshy, opulent wine compared to the more mineral-laced La Chapelle. Jammy blackberry and cassis fruit, notes of ground herbs, graphite, and violets, full-bodied richness, beautiful concentration, and a great finish all make for a compelling Hermitage. It’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age.”
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “The 2018 Hermitage La Maison Bleue offers up aromas of mocha, raspberries and a hint of black olive. It’s full-bodied, velvety and plush, with a finish that’s marked by hints of maple syrup and a slightly open-knit quality. It should drink well for at least a decade after release.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!