A Subscriber Only Alsace Sale
Trending Wines for Thanksgiving
Collector’s Corner: Rousseau’s Gevrey Mastery
Staff Pick -The Perfect Turkey Wine?
Alto Piemonte Steals the Langhe’s Thunder
The Weightless Concentration of Hebrart
A Subscriber Only Alsace Sale
To help you stock up for Thanksgiving (or just load up your cellar for future drinking) we’re putting all the Alsatian wine in the store on sale until the weekend for email subscribers. From now until 6pm Friday, take 10% off all the listed prices of Alsatian wine that’s in stock now. The discount won’t appear in the web store, but we’ll manually apply it to your order before finalizing it and running your card.
10% Off of All In-Stock Alasatian Wines
Discount Will Not Appear Online
We Will Manually Adjust Pricing Before Finalizing Your Order
(Or, Feel Free to Give Us a Call at 503-223-6002)
Sale Valid Until 6PM, November 22nd
Bursin’s top dry Gewurtz, this is a perfect blend of power and raciness.
Agathe Bursin Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle, Alsace Grand Cru 2017 750ML ($49.95) Was $39, Now $35.10 Subscriber Special
VinopolNote: The Zinnkoepflé vineyard has been recognized as a top site since the beginning of vine cultivation in Alsace. Known especially for Gewürztraminer and Riesling, the vineyard sits in a protected area that allows for exceptional sun exposure while limiting risk of botrytis and other problems. The shelly-limestone soils provide for great acidity, so wines from here are always both rich and racy—a rare and impressive combination.
Agathe Bursin Riesling Bollenberg, Alsace 2017 750ML ($29.95) Was $24, Now $21.60 Subscriber Special
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 91 points “Straw-green. White flowers, chamomile, and honey complement green apple nuances on the enticing nose and in the mouth. Then very juicy and lively, but delivering harmonious acidity and plenty of fruit (hints of stone fruit and citrus) that linger nicely on the classically dry finish (0 g/L r.s, 9 g/L total acidity and a pH of 3). Made from 70-year-old vines (last year, I incorrectly stated they were 60 years old) planted on mostly sandy-clay with some limestone soils (the mother rock is mostly limestone).”
Winery note “[Translated] Bollenberg is one of the three arid hills bordering the village of Westhalten. A thin layer of loess lines the hillsides. The soil is a pale yellow loam, very fine and sandy with clayey limestone. This soil is particularly favorable to full expression of the different Alsatian grape varieties
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Brand, Alsace Grand Cru 2014 750ML ($99.95) Was $69, Now $62.10 Subscriber Special
James Suckling 96 points “A dense and linear riesling with sliced limes, lemons and flint. Bright and precise. Full-bodied, layered and beautiful. Great finish to this. Big and flavorful. Yet not showy. Drink now.”
Now it’s even lower!
Agathe Bursin Pinot Gris Zinnkoepfle Selection de Grains Nobles, Alsace Grand Cru 2015 750ML ($89.95) Was $79, Now $71.10 Subscriber Special
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 96 points “Deep golden-tinged yellow. The perfumed nose combines ripe pear, lime blossom and powdered stone, plus hints of spicy botrytis. Sweet but taut, conveying a lovely light-on-its-feet quality and displaying noticeable tang to the citrus and floral flavors; the presence of noble rot adds personality. Closes minerally and very long. This very refined SGN offers noteworthy fragrance and vibrant acidity; in fact, it’s so stony that it’s almost Riesling-like. About 30% of the grapes were hit by noble rot, and this adds complexity to what is a memorable wine (check out these numbers: 5.7 g/L total acidity and 130 g/L total [sugar]).”
Jean-Baptiste Adam Riesling Tradition, Alsace 2016 750ML ($24.95) Was $19, Now $17.10 Subscriber Special
Case-12 Jean-Baptiste Adam Riesling Tradition, Alsace 2016 750ML ($279.95) Was $199, Now $179.10 Subscriber Special (that’s only $14.93/bottle!)
Ian D’Agata-Vinous 90 points “Bright straw. Aromas and flavors of yellow plums and white pepper are complemented by more luscious notes of lemon curd. Very fresh and clean, with a classically dry (2 g/L residual sugar) finish that is extended by laser-like acidity (7.2 g/L total acidity). Made from grapes grown in four plots located in the area of Ammerschwihr plus one plot in the Letzenberg (as the latter gives a wine that differs greatly from the other Letzenberg wines, Adam chooses to blend it in here to add a little more freshness to the finished wine). Lovely, very good entry-level wine that will also age well.”
Now it’s even lower!
Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Steingrubler, Alsace Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($49.95) Was $33, Now $29.70 Subscriber Special
Ian D’Agata-Vinous 92 points “Vivid yellow-gold. Aromas of tropical fruit, exotic spices, yellow flowers and citrus peel, plus a smoky note; this smelled like it had been hit by some botrytis. Very rich but suave and fine-grained, offering exotic flavors of mango and orange peel that are focused by a noteworthy mineral spine (Steingrubler means “stone quarry”). Offers compelling sweetness and intensity, but also firm acidic lift. I’d love to try this with a Hawaiian pizza or a spicy pork dish with pineapple chutney! A portion of these grapes were harvested late, on November 3 (the majority were harvested on September 7). An outstanding Gewürz that has a hint of sweetness but also impeccable balance. 13.5% alcohol, 29 g/L residual sugar and 4.5 g/L total acidity.”
Agathe Bursin Riesling Dirstelberg, Alsace 2017 750ML ($29.95) Was $24, Now $21.60 Subscriber Special
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 91 points “Bright straw-yellow. Aromas of peach, orange oil and white pepper. Supple, dense and broad, showing attractive spicy lift to the ripe flavors of soft citrus fruits, apple and pear. Densely packed, displaying nicely persistent soft citrus high tones and a hint of creamy sweetness that is more obvious than the low 4 g/L r.s. implies. Made from 65-year-old vines that are a different massal selection of Riesling than that planted in the Bollenberg.”
VinopolNote: The Disrstelberg vineyard is mostly composed of pink sandstone and is known as a high quality vineyard for a variety of grapes. The wines from the site tend to be linear and crisp, with good varietal character. Unlike many Alsatian producers, Bursin errs on the side of delicacy and raciness rather than pick too late and allow the wines to become rich and flabby for the sake of “power.”
Now it’s even lower!
10% Off of All In-Stock Alasatian Wines
Discount Will Not Appear Online
We Will Manually Adjust Pricing Before Finalizing Your Order
(Or, Feel Free to Give Us a Call at 503-223-6002)
Sale Valid Until 6PM, November 22nd
Please Note
Vinopolis Will Be Closed for Thanksgiving
Thursday, November 28th
We will resume normal business hours (10-6)
on Friday, November 29th
Andre Clouet Grande Reserve Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Case-12 Andre Clouet Grande Reserve Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($499.95) $359 special (that’s only $29.92/bottle—the lowest listed price in the country!)
Andre Clouet Grande Reserve Brut, Champagne NV 1.5L ($99.95) $89 special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 90 points “The latest release of André Clouet’s NV Brut Grand Réserve Grand Cru is showing well, exhibiting a nicely integrated bouquet of red apple, ripe citrus fruit, honeycomb and blanched almonds, followed by a medium to full-bodied, enveloping palate with a fine mousse, ripe but racy acids and an elegant, understated profile, concluding with a well-defined finish. This is a stylish, harmonious wine that makes for a fine introduction to the Clouet portfolio.”
Importer note “Initially showing a very fresh bouquet of high toned fruits with hints of hazelnuts and yeasty aromas, the Grande Réserve cuvée displays highly structured red fruit notes on the palate for which the area is so famous. Long lees aging, low dosage and Grand Cru Pinot Noir fruit combine for an opulent yet balanced Champagne.”
Spatlese Riesling is always a delight to drink, especially when it’s Schaefer and it’s Thanksgiving.
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #5, Mosel2016 750ML ($54.95) $49 special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 93 points “Ripe apple and pear garlanded in honeysuckle entice the nose, accompanied by high-toned suggestions of almond and pistachio extracts. A subtly creamy palate displays luscious fruit, heady inner-mouth perfume and rich nuttiness. There is less counterpoint or refreshment here than in the corresponding A.P. #10, but greater opulence has not precluded a delectable sense of delicacy, and the seductively soothing, superbly sustained finish offers a reassuring whisper of wet stone.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese (AP #5) has a lovey clear, piquant and still reductive nose that indicates tremendous complexity and richness. Round, super lush and elegant on the palate, this is a beautifully balanced and harmonious Spätlese that has an even riper and more textured character compared to the Spätlese #10.”
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “This offers a gorgeous nose of slightly yellow fruits, ginger and earthy spices. The wine proves quite lively and nicely focused on the palate, with zesty acidity driving the aromatic profile. The wine is nicely elegant and well balanced in the focused and yellow peach infused finish. This is a gorgeous Spätlese in the making. 2026-2041”
A perfect middleground Chardonnay—a touch of oak, but with good freshness.
Cameron Winery Chardonnay, Dundee Hills 2018 750ML ($21.95) $19.90 special
Winery Note “This delicious chardonnay from the Dundee Hills AVA is barrel-fermented and aged on the lees for one year. A nose of lemon curd, apricot, white peach and browned butter and a creamy palate with flavors of lemon peel, graham cracker, and baked pears. This year’s release is produced entirely from grapes from Abbey Ridge Vineyard, some of the oldest vines in Oregon. It’s a fabulous chance to experience a wine of this quality at this price.”
This is a smart buy if you love Tavel—it’s got great richness and a fantastic price.
Cave Yves Cuilleron ‘Sybel’ Syrah Rose, Rhone 2018 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Importer note “This Rosé is sourced 100% from Syrah grown within the confines of the village of Chavanay. It is produced by the “saignée” method after a brief maceration of several hours. The fermentations are in stainless steel and the elevage continues for about six months before bottling in the spring following harvest.”
You’re going to want to have some big red around for the big day and this is great for that.
Charles Smith K Vintners The Deal Sundance Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley 2016 750ML ($41.95) $36 special
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The 2016 Syrah The Deal comes from the sandy, loamy soils of the Wahluke Slope and has classic earthy notes of spices, forest floor, dried herbs, hot stones, and a crushed rock-like sensation of minerality. Full-bodied, concentrated, and opulent on the palate, it has a beautiful balance between richness and elegance, fine tannins, and a great finish. Drink it over the coming 7-8 years.”
James Suckling 94 points “This is from the Sundance Vineyard, which has volcanic, sandy soils at a higher elevation than the surrounding plots. The nose has aromas of crushed dried flowers and bright red berries that follow to the palate where a streak of sweetly spicy oak threads into the ripe, composed and elegant red-plum finish. Drink over the next decade.”
#44 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2019 –and a classic leafy Chinon!
Bernard Baudry Chinon Cuvee Domaine, Loire 2017 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
Case-12 Bernard Baudry Chinon Cuvee Domaine, Loire 2017 750ML ($299.95) $236 special (that’s only $19.67/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 92 points “A gorgeous red, with tobacco, bay leaf and black pepper notes underscoring the dark cherry and cola flavors. Beautifully integrated tannins join the fresh acidity and create a solid structure that gives this harmony and promises a long life ahead. Delicious now, but should be even better in a few years. Best from 2021 through 2030. 600 cases imported”
Importer Note ” Baudry’s style exemplifies rich, precise fruit picked at perfect ripeness levels and vinified cleanly using state-of-the-art equipment. The Cuvée Domaine is a blend of parcels of older vines (30-35 years old) planted in alluvial gravel bed and hillside clay. It has bigger structure and can use a short aging period in bottle before drinking. The wine has deep, dark ruby color and is beautifully extracted.”
Chateau Valcombe Ventoux Epicure Rose, Rhone 2018 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Importer Note “While his rosé is typically dominated by Grenache, the 2018 version is primarily Cinsault, with a splash of Syrah and a negligent amount of Grenache—the hardest-hit variety [by mildew, and therefore not used] by far. Even with its unorthodox encépagement, however, the 2018 Ventoux Rosé Epicure displays nice clarity of flavor and lift, with notes of juicy strawberries and pert acidity buoyed by a classic southern Rhône sense of richness. It manages to be substantial in its carriage without coming across as heavy, and one senses Luc’s commitment to spontaneous fermentation in the wine’s core of vinosity. If only there were more to go around!”
Rousseau’s Gevrey Mastery
The top wines Rousseau makes are their Clos de Beze, Ruchottes-Chambertin and Clos St. Jacques—all of which we’re featuring today. These are some of the pinnacles of Burgundy, up there with anything made by DRC, Roumier, Leroy or any of the other usual suspects, all with excellent provenance and in good condition. There are only small quantities of each bottling available, so if something strikes your fancy, don’t delay—it’s not often we can get these wines in.
In Stock Now:
Only one bottle available
Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2002 750ML ($2999.95) $2,699 special
Wine Advocate 94-96 points “The 2002 Chambertin Clos de Beze bursts with spicy red cherry aromas. This medium to full-bodied wine has an exceptionally spicy personality that is crammed with red licorice (Twizzlers), candied raspberries, Asian spices, and blackberries. Wonderfully focused and armed with substantial depth, this medium to full-bodied wine’s exceedingly long finish displays awesomely ripe tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020.”
Burghound 94 points “(with thanks to Steve Baum and opened from personal storage). While not nearly as reserved as it once was the beautifully spicy and well-layered nose is on the restrained side with a distinctly earthy character to the elegant mix of both red and dark pinot fruit aromas that are just now beginning to display secondary hints. There is fine concentration to the utterly delicious flavors that are exuberant, big, rich, round and seductively sappy before culminating in an explosive and strikingly persistent finish. This remains an exciting wine of exceptional purity and balance. For my taste this is very much still on the way up and while it can certainly be drunk with pleasure it seems quite clear that this is nowhere yet near its apogee and as such, I would recommend allowing this to continue to slumber. Multiple and consistent notes save for one bottle that was initially reduced but quickly opened up.”
Stephen Tanzer 94+ points “Good ruby-red. Black raspberry, licorice and chocolatey oak on the nose. Offers compelling lushness, sweetness and fat for a 2002; wonderfully harmonious from the outset. Very suave, clearly defined flavors of blackberry and blueberry retain their shape through to the very long aftertaste. Tannins are quite fine.”
Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2010 750ML ($1599.95) $1,399 special
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Rousseau’s 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques takes things into the stratosphere. A model of extreme purity and grace, the Clos St. Jacques leaves the room speechless, and understandably so. Here the fruit is impossibly sweet, perfumed and resonant. If there is one wine in this tasting that encapsulates what makes Burgundy so compelling, this is it. In a word: magnificent!”
Burghound 95 points “Moderate amounts of wood frames wonderfully fresh, airy, perfumed and beautifully complex aromas of red currant, warm earth, stone, crushed herbs and spice hints. The excellent depth of the nose continues onto the equally cool and brilliantly refined mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess outstanding depth of material and simply stunning length. We gave this an hour’s worth of air first and it helped enormously as it was quite closed at first. While I wouldn’t suggest opening a bottle now as there is sitll so much unrealized upside development potential remaining, if you do decide to pop one anytime soon, then be sure to decant it first for at least 30 minutes. In sum, this is a strikingly beautiful CSJ that should live for a very long time.”
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 95-97 points “The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques flows across the palate with fabulous depth and richness. Dark red fruit, licorice, smoke and exotic spices all come together in the glass, while the intensity of the fruit covers every corner of the palate. This huge, powerful wine will require considerable patience, but it is impeccable, not to mention stunning in its beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045.”
Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($999.95) $749 special
Stephen Tanzer 93+ points “Good full red. Spicy red berries, cherry, licorice and a hint of horseradish on the nose. Juicy, brisk and taut; not hugely fleshy but energetic and penetrating. Conveys an impression of density without weight in the manner of the best 2011s. Tightly wound and very backward, finishing with terrific spicy persistence. Eric Rousseau bottled his 2011s in April of 2013; his bottles now have the domain name embossed on the bottom of the glass.” ST
Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2013 750ML ($999.95) $779 special
Antonio Galloni 94-97 points “Rousseau’s 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques possesses gorgeous aromatic lift and energy. Polished and refined throughout, the 2013 is super-expressive. Winemaker Frédéric Robert adds that the grapes were especially small in 2013, with virtually no juice. Once again, Rousseau’s Clos St. Jacques looks to be one of the wines of the vintage.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 95+ points “Good deep red. Much less reduced on the nose than Ruchottes, offering captivating, high-pitched perfume of raspberry, rose petal, blood orange and crushed stone. On the palate, the tangy raspberry, red cherry and mineral flavors show a penetrating character and superb lift without any weightiness or hardness. Finishes with very fine-grained tannins and mounting floral perfume. This brisk, cool, aristocratic wine is built for a graceful evolution in bottle.”
Only one bottle available
Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru ‘Clos des Ruchottes’ Monopole, Cote de Nuits 2010 750ML ($899.95) $799 special
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 95-97 points “The 2010 Ruchottes-Chambertin is an intensely cool, reticent wine. The bouquet recalls the Mazis, but then the firm Ruchottes tannins set in. Ultimately the Ruchottes is built on purity, definition and nuance. The chiseled aromas and flavors possess stunning detail, but it will be some time before the 2010 is ready to drink. Still, I very much like the energy and drive. Bright, floral notes add lift and vibrancy on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045.”
Only one bottle available
Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru ‘Clos des Ruchottes’ Monopole, Cote de Nuits 2013 750ML ($799.95) $699 special
Burghound 92-95 points “A discreet touch of wood frames notably ripe but fresh aroma of dark currant, plum, truffle, earth and wet stone. There is outstanding delineation and intensity to the refined and pure medium-bodied flavors that are shaped by deceptively pliant tannins on the saline finish that seems to be constructed from liquid stone, all wrapped in a wonderfully long and pure finish. Textbook Ruchottes.”
Don’t hesitate.
Purchase now and ship ASAP to ensure you’re ready for your holiday entertaining and gift giving.
For clients on the East Coast, don’t forget prime shipping temperatures won’t last much longer!
The Perfect Turkey Wine?
Freshness is a virtue for Thanksgiving wines. Not in a literal, when-was-this-made, sense, but as a personality trait of the wine. Whether red or white, you’re looking for a wine that isn’t fatiguing—it’s a long meal with a lot of eating and drinking. The goal is to find a wine that energizes rather than enervates and, on the red side of things, I often turn to the (kinda obscure) Italian grape Pelaverga.
There are only a few producers of the grape, which grows in the Piedmont, and my favorite at the moment is Castello di Verduno. Their rendition is a wine that drinks bright and spritely, with lots of red fruit and floral notes. Think red cherries, less ripe strawberries, exotic pepper flavors and a hint of violetty aroma to round things out. It pairs well with Turkey, though frankly most everything does, but it really pairs well with the marathon of Thanksgiving. Buy an extra bottle—I promise you’ll put it to good use.
In Stock Now:
Castello di Verduno Basadone Pelaverga, Piedmont 2017 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
Winery Note “Soft, though bright ruby red. Intense fragrant nose, showing clear spicy overtones of black pepper and nutmeg, as well as fruity sensations reminiscent of cherries in spirit and strawberries. Nicely-balanced, lingering dry flavour.”
If you’re unfamiliar with the Alto Piemonte region, know that it’s one of the best places in the modern wine world to look for value in ageworthy Nebbiolo. Alto Piemonte was famous in the 19th century and into the 20th but has become more obscure since WWII. The big advantage the region has on its side right now is the changing climate. In an older climate paradigm, you couldn’t always count on the northerly regions in the Piemonte to get fully ripe every year, so often you had very light wines with very stern tannins. Now? It’s like Gattinara and co. have hit the jackpot.
Furthermore, the pricing of the wines hasn’t caught up with the current climate reality. From Nervi’s Gattinara to the Ghemme of Cantalupo or Antoniolo’s cru bottlings, these are wines that will stand the test of time and develop real profundity. Pricing, you’ll note, is about the same as mid-tier examples from the Langhe. That’s an opportunity we’re happy to exploit, at least until the wine buying world wakes up and the deals disappear. These are perfect wines for fall and winter, or for fall and winters in the future if you’ve got patience—just make sure you get in while the getting’s good!
In Stock Now:
#36 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2019
Nervi Conterno Gattinara DOCG, Piedmont 2015 750ML ($59.95) $47 special
Wine Spectator 94 points “Haunting aromas of rose, wild cherry, kirsch, mineral and leather are the hallmarks of this silky, elegant red, which is linear and balanced, extending on the finish with notes of fruit, spice, mineral and tobacco. Very harmonious. Drink now through 2033. 5,000 cases made.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “The weather in Gattinara is often unexpected. For example, in 2017 it rained more in this area than it did in Barolo. This vintage was more tempered, and this 2015 Gattinara comes across as pretty, elegant and soft, with light notes of berries and a pretty ashy signature. This particular expression of Nebbiolo would be a good choice for lamb.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The flagship 2012 Gattinara Osso San Grato is the most convincing of the wines, as it appears to have handled the rigors of the growing season best. It is also the wine with the clearest and most distinctive expression of site. Ample and expressive, with terrific textural breadth and tons of personality, the Osso San Grato has quite a bit to offer. The black cherry, spice, leather and tobacco notes take on dark shades of expression. All things considered, the Osso San Grato is very nicely done.”
Proprieta Sperino Lessona, Piedmont 2013 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Winery Note “The damp and cold winter and spring, with temperatures close to 0°C up until mid-June led to significantly late vegetation and growth phases for the vines. Fortunately the vines flowered after the cold and rain in June favouring the setting of the fruit, and the harvest was decidedly abundant, in clear contrast with 2012. Some thunderstorms in summer and early autumn and an early, but not easy harvest demanded a great deal of selection both in the field and on the sorting belt. We chose not to exaggerate with the maceration, favouring the aromatic part and fineness over the tannic side, which in these conditions would have risked not reaching the right level of maturity. The result: wines of vibrant mineral acidity, great aromatic impact, with body more delicate and finer than in other recent years”
Cantalupo ‘Anno Primo’, Ghemme DOCG 2011 1..5L ($99.95) $79 special
Importer note “Made entirely of Nebbiolo, normally picked in the middle of October. About ten days on the skins, aged in Slavonian oak casks of 1,500 and 3,000L capacity for 24 months before bottling. If you love Barolo and Barbaresco you owe it to yourself to try this wine; chewy but refined tannins, beautiful texture, very flavorful and aromatic, showing many of the same notes as Barolo and Barbaresco would, but with a mineral overlay that is very attractive. Completely traditional and also completely clean winemaking, my favorite. Drinkable now but will age beautifully for 20 years or more.”
Wine Advocate 91 points “This is a special wine with its own cult following. The 2012 Gattinara San Francesco stands apart for its apparent fruit intensity and the extra density and richness that it so generously offers to the palate. Dark cherry and blackberry drive a long and exuberant finish.”
Monsecco, Gattinara DOCG 2011 750ML ($41.95) $36 special
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2011 Gattinara is a super-classic wine laced with the aromas and flavors Nebbiolo shows with a bit of age. Sweet tobacco, dried flowers, dried cherry, menthol, orange peel and anise give the wine its aromatic presence. Firm tannins add drive through to the finish. Further time in bottle should help those tannins soften even more. Still, the 2011 is quite attractive today.”
Importer note “After a manual harvest, the grapes undergo an extensive cuvaison and then are racked into a combination of large “botte” and second year French barrique for at least three years of aging prior to being bottled.”
Ferrando Nebbiolo Di Carema White Label, Carema DOC 2015 750ML ($89.95) $75 special
Importer note “2015 Carema ‘Etichetta Bianca.’ For us, Ferrando’s white-label Carema is perhaps the ne plus ultra of Alpine wine—as well as the most gorgeous expression of Nebbiolo in existence—and the 2015 is a future legend. With its mouthwatering acidity, its sumptuously velvety texture, its panoply of spices, and its eerily pure fruit, it embodies what makes Carema so special, yet with a bit more authority and power than in a more typical vintage. Aged in a combination of large Stockinger casks and smaller barriques and tonneaux (all well-used), it presents relatively open at this youthful stage—perhaps a function of 2015’s generosity of fruit—yet the underlying structure and tension promise a long life.”
Winery note “Made from Nebbiolo grapes harvested around the 20th of October, fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, with maceration on the skins for about 10 days. In conformity with the production regulations, refinement lasts 36 months, 30 of which in oak barrels. Tasting notes: Colour: Intense garnet red, limpid and dense. Nose: Spicy, fruity notes. Fine hints of dried flowers and rose petals. Palate: Warm, tannic mouthfeel. Well-integrated spicy notes.”
Jean Paul Hebrart has transformed his family domain from a reliable producer of tasty Champagne to a true powerhouse in the very top tier of quality in the region. They manage to have intensity, generosity and length while presenting as finessed from the first sip.
We carry as broad a variety of them as we can and each one has merit. The reasonably priced bottlings are among the classiest of their peers. The high end bottlings, particularly the Rive Gauche/Rive Droite and the new Noces de Craie, are have an innate power, with enough elegance and classicism to provide tension and keep the wines absolutely thrilling. From the bottom to the top, Hebrart makes wines worthy of extra attention and we’ve loaded up to give you an excellent selection.
“Again and again I confront these Champagnes, tasting them there with him, tasting them elsewhere with you, drinking them at home, and every time I’ve had them in my glass for the past several years I’ve found myself thinking ‘Does Champagne really get any better than this?’”– Terry Theise
Arriving November 22nd
Marc Hebrart Cuvee Reserve Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $44 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “I cannot fathom how there could be a “better” NV Brut than this, anywhere in Champagne. The assemblage is complex. 80% Pinot Noir (from Mareuil, Avenay Val D’Or, Mutigny and Hautvillers), and 20% Chard (Bisseuil and Mutigny). It’s 50% 2016, 20% ’15, 20% ’14 and 10% ’13. Deg. 9/2018. Other than its miraculous quality, clarity and breed, it’s also 80% Pinot Noir, and as such it’s a flavor-gesture of PN such as I have never tasted elsewhere. Is anything clearer, or more deft? Is there an NV Champagne that more brilliantly squares the circle between fruit, precision and character? Are these things more important than—god help me—“buzz” factor? Is the whole idea of “buzz factor” repulsive to any mature mind? If ya’ll ain’t buzzin’ over this sterling beauty, then your buzz is on the fritz.”
Marc Hebrart Selection Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 375ML ($29.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “The vines range from 40 to 55. Very often this Champagne is something of a guilty secret, because it’s a ludicrous VALUE and if everyone knew about it you’d be dissuaded from trading up to Club. Maybe. I don’t really see this as a “superior NV Brut” so much as the entrée into the Têtes-de-Cuvées, analogous to Vilmart’s Grand Cellier. Why buy this, though, when the NV is so good? First, it is two years older. The vines are older. There’s more Chardonnay in it. It’s all Mareuil, so mono-communal, more terroiré. The aromas are also white; white flowers, white tea, chalk, jasmine rice, lemon blossom, and the wine is creamier, more rapturous and euphoric. Many growers’ top wines don’t come near to this. Pleasure-for-Dollar, this is as good as it gets. And this year it flirts with sublimity. This year’s masterpiece is 50/50 2015/2014. It’s 70% PN (markedly higher than usual) from Mareuil and Avenay, and 30% Chard from Bisseuil. Deg 10/2018. Even with more PN it still has the lemony lift and length we know; it’s less different from the NV than it is a refinement of that wine, a different emphasis; springier, more lithe, more patisserie, with an almost buttery finish.”
The average price nationally is $52
Terry Theise note “The very best “NV Blanc de Blancs” in this portfolio, challenged only by the best editions of Péters. It’s 60% 2015 (and is entirely without grassiness), 25% ’14 and 15% ’13—it’s 12% from Oiry/Chouilly (Grand Cru) with the balance from Mareuil (ought to be Grand Cru!), deg. 9/2018.”
Marc Hebrart Cuvee Rose Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “This edition is more fruit-forward than usual, after a relatively restrained aroma, and yet the nature of that fruit is for the up-front PN to almost tangibly dissolve and leave the most delicate wash of Chard, white, tea, and balsam and blossom—like the parting of a curtain. It’s 58% Chard in fact, from Mareuil, all 2016. Then 35% PN, also Mareuil, all 2015. Finally 7% still red, from Mareuil, 2015, vinified in barrel. Deg 7/2018.”
The average price nationally is $58
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “The NV Brut Premier Cru Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes is a new cuvée for Hébrart that’s well worth seeking out, derived from superior, south-facing sites in Mareuil-sur-Ay that also inform his Special Club bottling. The inaugural released, based on the 2014 vintage, is showing very well, wafting from the glass with aromas of apples, pears, tangerine, white flowers, spice and pastry cream. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and nicely structured, with good cut and dry extract, as well as all the charm that defines the house style.”
Terry Theise Note “[+++]The facts first—It is 75% PN from Mareuil, 25% Chard also from Mareuil. Old vines, massale selection. Deg 4/2018. 60% 2014, 20% 2013, 20% 2012. It’s from his favorite parcels in Mareuil, and is intended as a tribute to its terroir. It has a truly noble PN fragrance, leading to an utter masterpiece of weightless concentration, as huge and yet as penetrable as a cumulous cloud. Mareuil is clearly great but it’s also somewhat inscrutable; it has some of the malt of Aÿ, some mirabelle confiture, an almost gingery spice and top notes of chalk. This wine has great, gossamer opulence.
Marc Hebrart ‘Noces de Craie’ Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut, Champagne 2015 750ML ($149.95) $109 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “…this preview bottle was extraordinary, following on the heels of the masterly 2012. It’s 100% Aÿ PN, from Cheuzelles, Longchamp, Pierre Robert, Pruche and Chauffour. Another Coeur de Cuvée, massale selection, deg 9/2018. Our “marriage of chalk” is surprisingly lapidary and ready. More seductive than the “Favorites” and also fruitier. It has a huge adamant length you did not expect—all the power is in the back, it only seems to yield. Like a sweet-natured person who always seems to prevail, or a sideways strength you don’t feel being used. A wonderful, surprising work of genius.”
Marc Hebrart Rive Gauche Rive Droite Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne 2013 750ML ($149.95) $125 pre-arrival special