2017 Cristom Single Vineyard Pinots
New Grapelive Spanish Review:
Daniel Landi
Dujac’s 2017s
New Arrivals
Trending Wines
Rosé of the Day
Benoit Dehu’s Stunning Champagnes
Return of a Vinopolis Classic Chateauneuf:
Olivier Hillaire
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Arriving Friday
2017 Cristom Single Vineyard Pinots
These are wines that have powerful personalities allied to a Burgundian sense of proportion and savor. Doerner loves to use a lot of whole clusters in fermentations and so the wines always have a grip and earthiness that grounds their deep fruit and rich textures. 2017 was a bit of a return to older school Oregon, as vintages go, warmer than historical averages but much cooler than the heat years of ’14-’16. We’ve been thrilled with many of the wines we’ve tasted from the year and Cristom is no exception—these are some stunning wines, beautiful and nuanced already. They arrive Friday and might not last long.
Arriving ETA Friday:
Cristom Eileen Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2017 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds 95 points “Bright red. An intensely perfumed bouquet displays ripe red/blue fruit, baking spice, incense qualities and a strong, mineral overtone. Offers sweet, penetrating raspberry, blueberry, cherry pit, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors that show serious depth as well as vivacity. Displays impressive clarity and spicy thrust on the finish, which features smoothly interwoven tannins and suave, clinging floral and mineral notes.”
James Suckling 94 points “This has a very bright array of rich red cherries, together with a herbal accent and a thread of rose-like perfume, as well as autumnal leaves and sweet, woody spices. The palate has very assertive red cherries with elegant tannins that are paper-fine, but have combined length and strength. Great detail here. Drink or hold.”
Cristom Jessie Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2017 750ML ($79.95) $66 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 97 points “A very distinctive nose with a wild array of red berries and cherries and a thread of blue fruit, too. There’s a dried wild-rose perfume and a violet-like thread with subtle, herbal-based notes. It’s a moving target in the glass with incredible complexity. This has a gift of revelation. The palate has a very assertive edge with a powerful core of intense tannins that carry a spicy thread of rich dark cherries and dark plums in a defined, savory and athletic stance. A star of the vintage. Drink over the next decade or more.”
Josh Raynolds 94 points “Bright red. Intense black raspberry, cherry, exotic spice and floral pastille scents are given depth by building cola and licorice notes. Offers palate-staining red and dark berry flavors that show excellent clarity and energy thanks to a spine of smoky minerality. Expands steadily with air and picks up a smoky quality that carries through an impressively long, dark berry -driven finish.”
James Suckling 95 points “This cuvée has a very energetic and intense feel with a wealth of fresh and attractive red cherries and raspberries, plenty of florals and subtle herbal, forest-wood and light-chocolate notes. There’s a very keenly articulated feel to the palate with a plush, very fleshy and assertively long, detailed finish. Deep fruit presence here. Drink across the next decade.”
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Vivid red. Expansive aromas of ripe red berries, candied flowers and baking spices, with a smoky mineral topnote that gains strength as the wine opens up. Coats the palate with appealing sweet raspberry and cherry liqueur flavors that tighten up and become spicier on the back half. Shows excellent clarity and floral lift on an impressively long finish that’s shaped by fine-grained, even tannins.”
Cristom Marjorie Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2017 750ML ($99.95) $71.90 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds 95 points “Translucent red. A wild, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red fruits, exotic spices and candied flowers, with smoky mineral and incense notes that acquire strength as this youthful wine gains its footing. Stains the palate with vibrant raspberry, bitter cherry, star anise and rose pastille flavors that show a compelling blend of depth and litheness. Fine-grained tannins build slowly on a strikingly long, finely etched finish that features baking spice, floral and subtle earth notes.”
James Suckling 95 points “An earthy thread here with more savory, herbal and gently spicy notes, as well as graphite. Latent red cherries, too. The palate has a very sleek and succulent feel with evenly cast, sturdy tannins that harness great length and depth. Powerful yet measured and all about the earth. Try from 2023.”
See all Cristom wines in stock now and arriving Friday on our web store!
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Between Two Pinots:
A Quick Take on Hot Spanish Producer
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Grapelive 94 points “Dani Landi is one of the most influential winemakers in his region in the high plains and mountains above Spain’s capital, Madrid, in the Sierra de Gredos. [This is] one of the hot spots for Garnacha, and his wines are highly sought after for the complexity and delicacy they show, like this gorgeous example, the Las Uvas de la Ira. The Gredos is an exciting zone with Landi being one of the ringleaders as well as being part of a winemaking gang known as Comando G with Fernando Garcia. Other top producers here include Alfredo Maestro and 4 Monos, all are well worth searching out, [who are] making wines that are old vine authentic, in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape mode, though with a lighter touch on the alcohol in most cases. That said this Landi is no light weight at 14.5% and comes across like silky (baby) Chateau Rayas meets Chambolle-Musigny! Dani Landi is a native to the region and was born and raised in Méntrida. His family has been grape growers here for generations and like almost everyone else sold their grapes to the local cooperative, that Landi still helps out with. Knowing he wanted to express his own vines and personality he started a small winery back in 2012 to do just that and became one of the stars of this unique and ancient wine area that had almost been forgotten. The rise in Gredos seemed to mirror Landi’s releases and his Garnacha Las Uvas de la Ira from the village of El Real de San Vicente being one of his best offerings showing wonderful depth of flavors and a studied finesse that is highlighted in the beautiful pale ruby/garnet hue in the glass and rich detail on the palate. [It] is fermented using whole cluster with indigenous yeasts in open top French oak casks, and treated like Pinot with gentle hands, then the wine is aged in a combination of foudre, larger, mostly neutral French oak barrels for 12 months. Interestingly Landi also is experimenting with terra-cotta with some of his other bottlings seeing a portion that is raised in clay amphorae. The high elevation and cold nights make for a long growing season and wonderful development in the grapes. [The vines] are about 60 years old set on granitic sands, quartz and freely draining weathered soils, which Landi transmits into the wine with near perfection. A beautiful energy comes through in the wines, and I would like to think it is because of the purity of terroir and that all the grapes are grown to biodynamic practices, as well as the pop of traditional stem inclusion. The Las Uvas de la Ira Garnacha is highly aromatic with floral tones, mountain herbs, dusty red fruit and an array of spices. This nose leads to a medium body that fills out with macerated cherries, plum, strawberry, pomegranate and red currant fruits along with accents of minty/amaro, licorice, a mineral element, rose/lavender oil, cinnamon and with a light leathery earthiness. The finish echoes on and on with fine grained tannin and a bright cut of acidity pushing the fruit up, giving structure and life here, impressive for Landi’s village bottling. This is stellar wine to celebrate #GrenacheDay or any day! This latest release, imported by European Cellars, is deserving of your attention, especially if you are a Grenachista (Grenache Lover). Do not miss it!”
Dujac’s 2017s
Dujac is known primarily for their holdings in and around Morey-St. Denis, though recent years have seen them add new parcels to their domaine. The winemaking style is very much built around the idea of vin de garde, with lots of whole clusters in fermentation and wines that often need time. When cellared, though, these are some of the finest wines made in the world, on par with DRC, Rousseau, etc.
Their 2017’s are an astoundingly good collection of wines, even by Dujac’s lofty standards. The warmth of the year and the low yields seem to complement the house style to make wines that will go down as some of the best the domaine has ever made.
These just arrived in very limited quantities and won’t last very long.
In Stock Now:
Domaine Dujac Les Combettes, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($349.95) $289 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 92-94 points “The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru is vibrant and energetic, offering much more mineralité and terroir expression on the nose compared to the Folatières. The small yield renders the aromatics more concentrated. The palate is very well balanced with a killer line of acidity, superb concentration, a tang of seaweed on the front of the tongue and a saline back palate. This is a Puligny that seems to have relished the benevolent growing season. Superb.”
Wine Advocate 91-93+ points “The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes opens in the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, dried white flowers and beeswax. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, with more flesh, concentration and chewy extract than the Folatières, chunkier in profile but deeper and more profound.”
Domaine Dujac Les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2017 1.5L ($599.95) $449 special, 1 magnum in stock now
Wine Advocate 90-92 points “The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières offers up notes of ripe citrus, apples and white flowers, followed by a medium-bodied, pure and attractively tensile palate. The vines here are still young and the wine doesn’t have the depth or concentration of the Combettes, but it’s an elegant middle-weight that should offer a broad drinking window.”
Decanter 96 points “The Seysses’ Bonnes Mares comes from two parcels of unequal size – 0.43 and 0.14ha – but is divided 50/50 between red and white soils. This is a medium-weight rather than blockbuster expression of the grand cru, with impressive poise and balance. It has subtle spicing and tobacco pouch notes from 85% whole-bunch fruit, and an elegant, tapering aftertaste.”
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “One of the highlights of the Dujac portfolio this year, the 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru reveals a stunning nose of peony, red cherries, wild berries, espresso roast, grilled squab, heather and rich soil, framed by a deft touch of new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered with excellent concentration, chalky structuring tannin and a long, delineated finish. Even in this vintage, it’s a wine that will demand a dozen years’ bottle age but its potential is considerable. I expect it to land at the upper end of my banded score.”
Decanter 97 points “The average age of the Seysses’ 1.95ha holdings in the Clos de la Roche are slightly older than those of neighbouring Clos St-Denis. Using fruit from five main parcels, it’s a very complete, self-confident wine with good density and concentration, sappy, spicy undertones, fine-grained fruit and tannins, and a very long, tapering finish.”
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “The 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is an excellent wine in the making, offering up a complex bouquet of orange rind, warm spices, red cherries, rose petals, espresso roast and rich soil tones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied with excellent depth and dimension, velvety textured after the satin of the Clos Saint-Denis but similarly supple and elegant, with juicy balancing acids and a sapid finish. While this remains a charming, giving vintage, there’s enough structural tension here to suggest the wine will be sneakily long lived.”
Maison Dujac Fils & Pere Dujac Chambolle-Musigny 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Domaine Dujac Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Rouge 2017 750ML ($299.95) $219 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Decanter 94 points
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New Arrivals
Oregon
Kelley Fox Durant Vineyard Lark Block Chardonnay, Dundee Hills 2018 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special
Twill is definitely an “up and coming” estate to watch. This is great.
Twill Cellars Johan Vineyard Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2017 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Winery note “If we describe the Molly’s Chardonnay as bright and savory, the Johan shows more in richness. Honeycomb, apricots, and figs are noted on the immediate aromatics. With time, chamomile and notes of cream emerge. There are plenty of mineral and savory notes to the aromatics as the wine sees more air. On the palate, lots of fresh cream, apricot and plenty of texture which moves smoothly with the help of good acidity.”
Ayres Pioneer Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge 2017 750ML ($44.95) $39 special
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Brilliant red. Intense red fruit aromas show excellent clarity and are complemented by suggestions of candied rose, baking spices and musky earth. Offers juicy, finely etched redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors show very good energy and dark chocolate. Licorice flourishes build with air and add depth. Closes on an energetic, smoky mineral note, with strong persistence and smooth tannins that sneak in late.”
See above, but replace “top cuvee” with “value bottling.”
Ayres Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2018 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 special
Twill Cellars Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2016 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
VinopolNote: Simply delightful. The entry level Twill Pinot combines layers of delicious fruit with a bright and fresh personality that renders a wine both interesting and immensely drinkable. For the price it’s one of the best values in Willamette Pinot.
Oregon is Syrah country, if you like your Syrah from the Rhone, normally.
Twill Cellars Syrah, Oregon 2016 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
Winery note “Licorice, olive paste, black pepper, and huckleberry are immediate on the aromatics. In time, black raspberry, ground coffee and baker’s chocolate are evident with light notes of allspice, grapefruit, and lavender in the background. On the palate, this wine is savory, bright and elegant.”
Kelley Fox+old and rare Pinot clone+cool vineyard=win.
Kelley Fox Wines Hyland Vineyard Coury Clone Pinot Noir, McMinnville 2017 750ML ($59.95) $51.90 special
Winery Note “I am very happy to introduce my first bottling of Hyland Vineyard Coury Clone Pinot 2017….The vines I work with there have been farmed organically for years and biodynamically (uncertified) starting a few years ago. The Hyland Coury Clone 2017 is medium to darker red, and full of moving light and transparency. It has a pure nose of the reddest of red berries (the classic Oregon summer raspberries and strawberries-I hope you have tasted these before) with a certain coolness. It is complex with a velvety frame and nimble, age-worthy acidity typical of Hyland Vineyard, and a real boon in the string of warm vintages in the Willamette Valley (back to old school). It’s a beauty, it’s long, and it seems to embody some Platonic Idea of “Red”.”
The average listed price is $61
Bereche Crus Selectionnes ‘Cote’ Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru Millesime Extra-Brut, Champagne 2005 750ML ($119.95) $79 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “An elegant Champagne, with a rich, savory streak of mineral underscoring the layered pear tart, lime blossom and crushed white cherry flavors. Creamy, with finely honed acidity chiseling the finish. Drink now through 2027. 330 cases made.”
The average listed price is $104
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Disgorged August 2017
Wine Spectator 92 points “An elegant Champagne that shows lovely integration, framing flavors of Gala apple, white cherry, chalk and grated ginger with bright, lemony acidity and a finely detailed mousse. Minerally finish. Disgorged June 2017. Drink now through 2021. 400 cases imported.”
Antonio Galloni 91 points “Margaine’s NV Le Brut is pure, precise and crystalline, as his wines tend to be. Mint, crushed rocks, apple, pear and lemon peel are finely-sketched. Readers who enjoy taut, focused Champagnes will adore the Le Brut. Best of all, it is a gorgeous wine for the money. Le Brut is 50% 2015 and 50% reserve wines going back to 2011, 88% Chardonnay and 12% Pinot Noir. Disgorged: August 2017.”
The average listed price is $49
Domaine A. & P. De Villaine Bourgogne Blanc ‘Les Clous Aime’ Cote Chalonnaise, Burgundy 2016 750ML ($44.95) $33 special
Winery note “Les Clous Aimé comes from several parcels located on a south-facing slope of Bouzeron’s valley, sheltered from summer’s north wind during ripening. Our vineyard here is planted with selections of Chardonnay grapes that we have chosen for moderate yields. 2016 [was a] great success. Our Clous Aimé 2016 is powerful, dense with a soft and floral touch on the palate at the same time. A wine of pleasure, without complexity and very attractive. No need to think about it, it simply must be drunk.”
The next best price is $39.98
Importer note “La Garenne comes from a 2.5-hectare vineyard of that name, a plot on a steep east-facing slope with a very rocky limestone soil. The chalky soil brings out the characteristic flinty, mineral and green notes of Sauvignon Blanc. On La Garenne’s well-drained, warm slopes the grapes achieve exceptional ripeness and fruit.”
Barruol Lynch Hermitage La Pierelle, Rhone 2015 750ML ($74.95) $56 special
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Dark purple. Smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruit, olive and violet aromas show impressive clarity and a touch of Indian spices. Sweet and precise on the palate, offering intense boysenberry, cassis and spicecake flavors that show a suave blend of depth and energy. Youthfully firm tannins shape the floral-accented finish, which hangs on with outstanding persistence.”
The next best price is $73.99
Raul Perez Ultreia La Claudina Godello, Bierzo 2015 750ML ($59.95) $45 special
The next best price is $54
Raul Perez Ultreia de Valtuille, Bierzo 2015 750ML ($79.95) $49 special
Josh Raynolds 95 points “Vivid ruby. An expansive, seductively perfumed bouquet of ripe red/blue fruits, pot-pourri, exotic spices and cola, along with an intense mineral overtone. Concentrated yet vibrant in character, showing superb definition and mineral lift to the sweet raspberry, boysenberry, cola, spicecake and violet pastille flavors. Shows alluring sweetness and powerful thrust on the youthfully tannic finish, which hangs on with outstanding clarity and mineral-driven persistence. (All whole clusters and neutral French oak.) “
The next best price is $55
Bodegas Muga Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2015 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Case-12 Bodegas Muga Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2015 750ML ($359.95) $285 special (that’s only $23.75/bottle!)
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “One of the flagship cuvées from this estate that’s produced in every vintage, the 2015 Reserva is a blend of 70% Tempranillo and the rest Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano that spent 24 months in used French and American oak. Blackberries, currants, cigar wrapper, cedar box, and hints of vanilla all flow to a medium-bodied, concentrated, beautiful Rioja that has ripe tannins, beautiful balance, and a great finish. You couldn’t go wrong with a case of this.”
James Suckling 94 points “Complex nose with ripe black cherries, deeply integrated cedary oak, baking spices, dried flowers, leather, fresh tobacco and earthy notes. This is silky and mellow with long, laid-back tannins that deliver ripe dark plum flavors into a spicy and earthy finish. Drink or hold.”
Think of this as a less expensive Flor de Pingus and you’d be on the right track.
Bodegas Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2015 750ML ($54.95) $45 special
Case-12 Bodegas Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2015 750ML ($599.95) $479 special (that’s only $39.92/bottle and the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “Made with guidance from Peter Sisseck [of Pingus], the 2015 Crianza from Hacienda Monasterio is a blockbuster effort that’s a blend of 75% Tinto Fino, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Merlot, all of which spent 18 months in 30% new French oak. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by terrific notes of blueberries, violets, graphite, and crushed rocks. Full-bodied, deep, concentrated, and elegant, with a traditional style and building tannin, it’s incredible that they produce upward of 30,000 cases of this beauty. It’s no doubt beautiful today yet will keep for a decade or more. Even at $50, it’s a smoking value!”
Wine Advocate 94 points “The flagship Crianza is now simply referred to as 2015 Hacienda Monasterio. This is their biggest production, with some 181,630 bottles in this classical and powerful vintage where the secret was an early harvest to keep the acidity and freshness in the wine and keep the alcoholic degree under control. It’s mostly Tempranillo, with 10% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, fermented with indigenous yeasts and with long and soft macerations. It matured for some 18 months in French oak barrels, 25% of them new (a percentage that has been gradually lowered in the last few years). It has a balanced nose, with nuance and subtleness, with the oak nicely folded into the fruit, incipient perfume, and even if young, you can almost see where it can go in bottle. The foreign varieties are not really noticed; they are very integrated. The palate has terrific balance and refined tannins. There is no heat or excess ripening whatsoever. For a moment, I thought I was tasting the 2014. This is one of the best and most widely available wines from Ribera del Duero. It should evolve nicely in bottle.”
Old, old Amontillado.
Bodegas Toro Albala Marques de Poley Solera 1922 Amontillado Viejisimo, Montilla-Moriles NV 500ML ($49.95) $33 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2018 bottling of the NV Amontillado Viejísimo Solera 1922 Marqués de Poley has a bright orange color and a nose that combines varnish, hazelnut and peach aromas with some iodine and sea breeze aromas. It has a pungent palate, finishing dry and with a pleasant bitter and salty touch.” [Year of bottling not indicated. L-011601S43]
The average listed price is $46
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Trending Wines
Azienda Agricola La Torre Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Grapelive 95 points “The 2016 is going to be legendary in Tuscany. We are seeing the top wines already getting unbelievably good press, but there are also some killer deals on lesser known wines, especially wines like this gorgeous deep fruited and elegant La Torre Rosso di Montalcino. [Such wines] are incredible and offer a wonderful value for much less than their Brunello version. Lighter on its feet than the Brunello(s) the Rosso [shows] style and grace, it shows a complex array of flavors and a sense of never-ending length with a beautiful rose petal perfume and exotic spices. This La Torre has, what it is cliche to say, Burgundy class in the glass with ripe tannins and a gorgeous garnet/ruby hue that seduces the senses with layers of black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and plum fruits to begin on its open and generous palate with gains structure with air as well as highlighting the background elements, mineral notes and light earthiness. Additionally there is classic anise, fine cigar tobacco wrapper, sandalwood and lingering dried flowers and cranberry/currant, making for a lovely Sangiovese wine that gets even better with food, bringing out more depth and fruit intensity. There is almost nothing to fault here and the detailing and mouth feel is exceptional in this remarkable Rosso di Montalcino. This is a wine that needs to be taken out of the “Baby Brunello” box; it is really next level stuff on its own. The La Torre winery was founded not all that long ago by Italian standards back in 1976 by Giuseppe Ananìa, who purchased the La Torre estate from the famous Ciacci family of Montalcino. Now Luigi Anania, Giuseppe’s son, is the present owner and producer of the wines of La Torre. The estate is located in the commune of La Sesta, approximately 8 kilometers south of Montalcino, which is in the highest altitude section of the Brunello appellation. La Torre make four main wines, all from organic vines: Brunello di Montalcino (with a Riserva in the best years as well), Rosso di Montalcino, with the Brunello and Rosso being exclusively Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello Clone) by law, as well as a Rosso di Toscano and a Rosso di Toscano “Ampelio” which have touches of Ciliegiolo and Alicante added to a mainline of Sangiovese. The wines are all made from all grapes that are de-stemmed prior to fermentations and only indigenous yeasts are used before an extended 20 maceration on the skins. Ferments are done in a combination of steel and oak with an 18 month elevage being in large oak casks of French origin, with only about 10% of the ultimate cuvée being aged in small French barrels. Made for more early drinking pleasure and a sublime vintage really show here and I absolute love this stuff. Judging it purely on its intent and delivery it is fantastic, drink this brilliantly crafted beauty over the next 3 to 5 years.”
Domaine Eric et Joel Durand Cornas Empreintes, Rhone 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Wine Spectator 95 points “Ripe and focused, with mouthwatering acidity driving the core of steeped red currant, raspberry and blackberry fruit along. A bright iron note zings through the finish, pulling in light anise, savory and sanguine hints. Best from 2020 through 2035.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2016 Cornas Empreintes features hints of cedar, brown sugar and dried spices layered over its plummy fruit (it was aged in 20% new oak, with the bulk in older wood). Full-bodied, supple and ripe, it’s charming but with more stuffing than that word suggests, showing ample concentration and soft, dusty tannins on the long finish. It’s a terrific Cornas to drink over the next 10-12 years.”
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “Deep purple-colored, the 2016 Cornas Empreintes is a smoking good effort. Blackberries, plums, cured meats, pepper, and earthy notes all flow from this rounded, sexy, powerful Cornas that has beautiful mid-palate depth and density as well as a great finish. Drink this smoking good 2016 any time over the coming decade.”
Hard to imagine a better Rhone value.
Chateau Pesquie Ventoux Terrasses, Rhone 2016 750ML ($17.95) $14.75 special
Case-12 Chateau Pesquie Ventoux Terrasses, Rhone 2016 750ML ($199.95) $156 special
Jeb Dunnuck 91 points “A year in, year out no-brainer is the Terrasses cuvee from this estate, and the 2016 Ventoux Terrasses is no exception. A blend of 70/30 Grenache and Syrah, it offers a terrific perfume of black cherries, wild herbs, dried flowers, and spice. This gives way to a plum, sexy, beautifully textured red that has surprising minerality, medium-bodied depth and richness and fine tannin. I finished a case of the 2005 just last year, and it was still going strong, so while there’s no need to cellar bottle, it will keep nicely for 7-8 years.”
Wine Advocate 90 points “A bit more “serious” than the Edition 1912M, the 2016 Ventoux Terrasses delivers what longtime admirers have come to expect from the estate: ample fruit, complexity, weight and charm. Peppered raspberries and hints of garrigue drive the wine from start to finish, bolstered by fine, silky tannins and balanced acids. This solid value blend of Grenache and Syrah should drink well for 4-5 years from vintage.”
Philippe Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux Reserve, Loire 2009 750ML ($119.95) $79 special
Wine Advocate 97 points “What there was in this vintage of botrytis, Foreau reports, essentially went into his 2009 Vouvray Moelleux Reserve. Brown-spiced pear liqueur and quince preserves dominate the proceedings – wreathed in perfume of freesia and lily – and there are buoyancy and elegance, despite viscosity, enormous richness of texture and residual sweetness, that indeed point to the magic nobility rot can convey. Its sense of lift – when combined with luscious, still juicy suggestions of grapefruit and blood orange familiar from the corresponding demi-sec – wards off any risk of palate fatigue. Mysterious botrytis manifestations of stale bread, truffle, and white raisin emerge from the empty glass. This extraordinary achievement will stand with such past great Foreau moelleux reserves as 2005, 2003, and 1989-90 and is likely to merit 30 or more years of consideration. In direct comparison, what strikes one about the 2005 today is its more obvious sense of botrytis and its slightly diminished sense of acidity and lift. But it maintains the edge in sheer complexity.” WA
The average listed price is $85
Marchesi Antinori Pian delle Vigne Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Case-6 Marchesi Antinori Pian delle Vigne Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($189.95) $144 special (that’s only $24/bottle!)
James Suckling 91 points “Shows good intensity on the nose and no shortage of fruitiness in the form of glazed cherries. Dried herbs and some ash, too. Full-bodied and chewy with a streak of refreshing acidity and bright red fruit. Drink now.”
Keller is magic at everything.
Weingut Keller Gruner Silvaner Trocken, Rheinhessen 2018 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
John Gilman 91 points “The 2018 Grüner Silvaner Trocken from Weingut Keller had been bottled only two weeks before my visit, but was showing beautifully. This is 11.5 percent octane this year and offers up a lovely and quite serious nose of tart orange, grapefruit, chalky minerality and a lovely, smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and beautifully balanced, with bright acids and lovely length and grip. Germany’s most popular wine to pair with white asparagus is outstanding this year and a great bargain! 2019-2040.”
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Rosé of the Day
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In Stock Now
Yves Cuilleron ‘Sybel’ Syrah Rose, IGP Collines Rhodaniennes 2018 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Importer note “This Rosé is sourced 100% from Syrah grown within the confines of the village of Chavanay. It is produced by the “saignée” method after a brief maceration of several hours. The fermentations are in stainless steel and the elevage continues for about six months before bottling in the spring following harvest.”
The next best price is $16.99
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Benoit Dehu’s Stunning Champagnes
Dehu farms his 1.7 hectare vineyard biodynamically, partly using a horse (whose name is Violette) and ferments all his wines with indigenous yeasts in his aforementioned custom barrels. Wines are unfined and unfiltered (a real rarity in Champagne) and bottled extra-brut—the goal is to present a naked expression of this corner of the Marne. The wines are scarce, as you’d expect (see: 1.7ha total vineyard land) but prices don’t currently reflect that—though that could change in an instant. We’ve secured new releases, arriving in January, but also have some in stock if you’re looking for a sneak peek.
Arriving ETA January:
Benoit Dehu Cuvee de l’Orme Brut, Champagne NV (2015) 750ML ($159.95) $135 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: 100% Pinot Noir (Dehu’s first), grown from a massale selection of vines planted at the bottle of the Rue de Noyers hill. Like Dehu’s other wines, this is vinified and aged in barrels that are made from oak trees in Champagne that Dehu owns and has coopered by a local barrel maker. Stirring, compelling and delicious, it’s a rare beast that’s a new look from Dehu.
Importer note “Cuvée Initiation is the newest addition to the Déhu lineup. Made from his signature variety Pinot Meunier and 25% Pinot Noir, which Benoît planted using massale selection of Pommard clone from Burgundy. Oak vinification and ageing, unfined and unfiltered, low dosage. The wines is zippy and round with a persistent finish. Sourced from a small parcel at the bottom of the hill which Benoît planted using massale selection of Pommard clone from Burgundy.
The average price nationally is $79
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Antonio Galloni 94 points “The NV (2015) Extra Brut Cuvée La Rue des Noyers speaks with real authority, and yet the 2015 is one of the more delicate versions of this cuvée so far. Time in the glass allows the wine to blossom nicely. Dried pear, smoke, herbs and dried flowers fill out the wine’s creamy frame effortlessly. Once again, the Rue des Noyers is one of the most distinctive wines in Champagne. Dosage is 1 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2017.”
The next best price is $99.99
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Benoît Déhu’s NV Cuvée de la Rue des Noyers (100% Pinot Meunier) is rich and resonant on the palate with notable power to back things up. Dried pear, smoke, sage, menthol and anise give the wine much of its complexity, but this is a distinctly vinous style that plays off feel and weight. At the same time, the no dosage style does give this wine a certain austerity, especially on the back end. There is plenty to like, especially if readers are willing to let the 2012 open up over time. This is a Champagne for the dinner table. Disgorged: October 14, 2015. No dosage.”
Check out these fantastic wines from Dehu, in stock now:
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “Benoit Déhu NV (2014) Extra Brut Cuvée La Rue des Noyers Non-Dosé is bright, powerful and tightly wound. A wine of energy and vibrancy, the 2014 is going to need at least a few years to be at its very best. Even so, its potential today is evident. The Meunier character is pronounced, but it is the wine’s salivating minerality that gives shape, focus and cut. What a gorgeous wine this. Disgorged on August 4, 2017 with no dosage.”
Importer note “Benoit is an eighth generation vigneron that returned to the family estate after working for Bollinger. He is committed to natural farming and aims to craft unadultered, pure Pinot Meunier. He purchased this 1.7 hectare vineyard and farms it biodynamically. The results are exceptional and we are thrilled to introduce Benoit’s work to our clients. The Cuvee La Rue de Noyers, named for the walnut trees that line the parcel, is a wine that will keep you intrigued and coming back for more. Organically farmed Pinot Meunier, 1.7 hectares farmed biodynamically. A quarter of the property is worked with a horse named Violette. Vinified in oak barrels, many of which are made from trees from the forest of Fossoy. No malo, no dosage, unfined and unfiltered.”
The next best price is $99.99
Winery note “82% Pinot Meunier, 18% Chardonnay + 17% red wine (mainly Pinot Meunier); aged for three years on the lees. On the palate, it is an explosion of crushed raspberry, wild strawberry and fresh mango. It is broad in the mouth and surprisingly smooth and fresh. As it warms, its aromas open into notes of pear and quince.”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “A new wine from Benoit Déhu, the NV (2015) Initiation is superb. Intense aromatics and lifted, soaring fruit are two of the signatures that mark this distinguished, alluring Champagne. Dried herbs, lemon confit, chamomile, almond and savory notes meld together in this understated, classy Champagne. The Initiation has a bit of the savory character that makes so many 2015s, and yet there is a good bit of tension and precision here. Initiation is a blend of Pinot Noir from a new vineyard in this range and Meunier from the lower slopes of La Rue des Noyers, the same site that informs Déhu’s flagship wine. Zero dosage. Disgorged: February 28, 2018.”
Importer note “Cuvée Initiation is the newest addition to the Déhu lineup. Made from his signature variety Pinot Meunier and 25% Pinot Noir, which Benoît planted using massale selection of Pommard clone from Burgundy. Oak vinification and ageing, unfined and unfiltered, low dosage. The wines is zippy and round with a persistent finish. Sourced from a small parcel at the bottom of the hill which Benoît planted using massale selection of Pommard clone from Burgundy.
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Olivier Hillaire
Arriving ETA December:
Domaine Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Petits Pieds d’Armand, Rhone 2016 750ML ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Petits Pieds d’Armand, Rhone 2016 750ML ($599.95) $449 pre-arrival special (that’s only $74.83/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Petits Pieds d’Armand comes from a parcel of Grenache originally planted at the end of the 19th century in a sandy part of La Crau. It’s Hillaire’s flagship, and it merits its status this vintage, where it shines with raspberry fruit and layers of dried spice complexity. It’s full-bodied and rich yet silky, elegant and long on the finish, epitomizing the delicious contradictions that Grenache can present.”
Josh Raynolds 95 points “Vivid ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes red fruit preserves, spicecake and incense, and a minerally element adds urgency. Impressively energetic on the palate, offering intense raspberry, cherry compote and lavender pastille flavors that deepen slowly on the back half. The floral note repeats emphatically on the impressively long, youthfully tannic finish, which leaves a smoky mineral note behind.”
Case-6 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Terrasses’, Rhone 2016 750ML ($539.95) $389 pre-arrival special (that’s only $64.83/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Terrasses is a fine example of old-vine Grenache from a parcel of vines near La Nerthe. Rose petals and black tea accent pristine cherry and raspberry fruit in this full-bodied but silky-lacy, delicate wine. Long, briny and refreshing on the finish, it’s deceptively drinkable but undoubtedly packs a wallop.”
Josh Raynolds 94 points “Brilliant violet. Lively, mineral-accented red and blue fruit aromas are complemented by suggestions of lavender and vanilla. Silky and energetic on the palate, offering concentrated raspberry and boysenberry flavors that deepen and become spicier as the wine opens up. Closes sweet, energetic and very long, displaying harmonious tannins and lingering smoke and red berry liqueur notes.”
Case-6 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone 2016 750ML ($299.95) $189 pre-arrival special (that’s only $31.50/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 94 points “The young estate has turned out some crazy good 2016s, including the “basic” 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape, a blend of 90% Grenache and the rest Mourvèdre and Syrah, all from the lieu-dit of Grand Pierre. Aged in concrete and neutral barrels, it shows terrific balance, matching black cherries and raspberries with hints of garrigue, and ample weight and richness on the palate with fine, silky tannins. Concentrated, flavorful and long, this should be available for around $50, making it a relative bargain.”
Thank you for reading!