Perrier Jouet At Unbelievable Price; New Arrivals from Foradori; Austria’s Grand Crus; A Sottimano Retrospective; Pichler-Krutzler, The Other/Other Pichler; Vougeraie Impresses; Calabretta’s Unchanging Ways; Montezemolo’s Royal Barolos; A Steal of a St. Emilion
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No Fancy Title Needed:
Perrier Jouet “Grand Brut” –Under $27 by the case!
Perrier-Jouet is one of the most reliably delicious grande marque Champagne houses. They’re best known for the flower-pained ‘Belle Epoque’, but their gold labeled Grand Brut is one of the best bottles for the price. That’s especially true now, as we’ve managed to acquire a lot at what is by far the best pricing in the country. We’ve got it by the bottle as well as in six-pack and twelve bottle case specials (and we have a little of the rose in as well!) Normally when we have these sorts of wines at prices like this, they disappear quickly, so if you want to go straight to our website and buy the wines, click here.
Arriving Friday:
Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut NV, Champagne 750ML ($49.95) $29.50 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut NV, Champagne 750ML ($279.95) $169 pre-arrival special (that’s only $28.17/bottle!)
Case-12 Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut NV, Champagne 750ML ($519.95) $319 pre-arrival special (that’s only $26.58/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 90 points “Lively and mouthwatering, with flavors of black currant, graphite, candied lemon zest and smoky mineral, supported by a creamy mousse. A balanced crowd-pleaser. Drink now through 2018.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average listed price is $45!
Perrier-Jouet Blason Brut Rose, Champagne NV 750ML ($89.95) $49 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 92 points “Immensely fresh red fruits and pink grapefruit citrus with flinty reduction that’s nicely captured; the clarity is intact. The palate has a similar pink grapefruit flavor, plus nectarine and red berries to close. Smoothly crafted texture with fine, fresh acidity cleansing the finish. Drink now.”
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Mid-Week New Arrivals from Foradori
Italy – Trentino-Alto Adige
Foradori Fontanasanta Nosiola Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Trentino-Alto Adige 2014 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special
James Suckling 92 points, Wine Spectator 90 points “This sleek white offers a rich and distinctive mix of steeped white cherry, green almond, dried herb and fleur de sel notes, set in a finely balanced, vibrant frame. Lightly floral on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2022.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $46
Foradori Morei Teroldego Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Trentino-Alto Adige 2014 750ML ($49.95) $40.90 special
Foradori Morei Teroldego Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Trentino-Alto Adige 2014 1.5L ($99.95) $79 special
James Suckling 93 points, Wine Spectator 91 points “A bright and tangy red, with a fragrant overtone of floral and herb notes, this is zesty on the palate, lacing steeped raspberry and white peach fruit with ground white peppercorn and orange zest accents. Supple tannins emerge on the lasting finish. Drink now through 2024.” WS
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Foradori Vigneto Sgarzon Teroldego Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Trentino-Alto Adige 2014 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special
Foradori Vigneto Sgarzon Teroldego Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Trentino-Alto Adige 2014 1.5L ($99.95) $89 special
James Suckling 97 points “Aromas and flavors of blueberries, blackberries and cherries follow through to a full body, round and velvety tannins and a flavorful finish. A big and rich wine with so much density and complexity. Made from biodynamically grown grapes. Better in 2020.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
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Gaisburg, Heiligenstein, Renner, Lamm
The Grand Crus of the Kamptal
“Austria’s best values are coming from the Kamp and Kremstals. This doesn’t mean the cheapest wines; it means the lowest available prices for stellar wines. Austria is often paradoxical in that the more you pay the better the value, e.g., the top Kremstal/Kamptal Grüner Veltliners seem to provide more quality than any other white wine the same money would buy.” –Terry Theise
We are lucky enough to have a great stock of top Austrian wines here, which is both a blessing and a curse. The blessing part is obvious: these are some of the greatest wines made anywhere in the world and it’s a pleasure to sell them. The curse part…well, let’s just say that the wines don’t always get the love (commercially) that they deserve. That’s frustrating to us—if these wines came from France, they’d be three times as expensive. We wanted to highlight four vineyards that are amongst the best in Austria, but more importantly are the source of the best value high end whites in the world.
The Kamptal is the slightly less famous brother to the Wachau in Austria and as a result, the best wines are priced at a bit of a discount to their Wachau brothers. The quality, though, is there in the same way, so the wines from Brundlmayer, Gobelsburg and Hirsch end up being the best deals in the land. Lamm and Renner are the best Gruner vineyards in the Kamptal, with Lamm being recognized as ‘better’ and certainly more opulent and powerful. Likewise, Heiligenstein and Gaisberg, on the Riesling side, are in a class by themselves but with Gaisberg the slightly ‘prettier’ one. Austria’s been on a roll, recently, too, so these wines are all from very good (2011, 2014) to stellar vintages (2013, 2015).
The three estates we are featuring here today all have slightly different styles. Gobelsburg makes wines with more weight and chew—the power in them is overt and immediate. Hirsch makes crystalline wines that are mineral and profound in their intricacy. Brundlmayer’s wines are somewhere in the middle, with more fruit than Hirsch, though they reward attention and aging in spectacular ways. In a world where the market (outside of sommeliers) realized how good these were, we’d be sold out. The reality is that they’re somehow on our shelves, so at least you have an opportunity to grab them for yourself before someone else gets wise to the wines.
Weingut Hirsch Lamm Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2011 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 22 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Slowly emerging aromas of honeyed peach, lime zest and ripe plum. Harmoniously herbal and subtly austere, with wonderfully integrated acidity lending a particularly refreshing quality to the peach and apricot flavors. This is less a veltliner to drink on its own than a very versatile food wine.” ST
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Weingut Hirsch Kammerner Renner Gruner Veltline, Kamptal 2013 750ML ($41.95) $36 special, 21 bottles available
Weingut Hirsch Kammerner Renner Gruner Veltline, Kamptal 2013 1.5L ($99.95) $79 special, 2 magnums available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 93 points “With a diversity of mineral nuances more familiar from Riesling, this Grüner Veltliner projects an infectiously juicy and crunchily invigorating alliance of fresh lime, orange, pea tendrils, corn shoots and ginseng, with beet root earthiness joining wet stone on the bass line. A penetrating, almost severely but downright mouth-shakingly intense finish perpetuates the full range of diversity displayed on the firm palate, accompanied by hints of iodine, black tea smokiness plus saliva-inducing salinity and animality akin to oyster liquor. This weighs in at just 12.7% alcohol, permitting a lovely sense of levity to boot. A new parcel in Renner was added this year and Hirsch’s already owned vines had reached what he judged to be proper maturity for producing a wine dedicated to and worthy of this site. He was certainly right! (For further indications of this vineyard’s potential check out my accompanying review of Schloss Gobelsburg’s 2013 rendition.)”
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Weingut Hirsch Zobinger Gaisberg Riesling, Kamptal 2013 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 15 bottles available
Weingut Hirsch Zobinger Gaisberg Riesling, Kamptal 2013 1.5L ($149.95) $109 special, 2 magnums available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 92 points “Ocean spray-like alkalinity and salinity are signaled in the nose, along with faint struck flint and intriguingly sweaty, musky hints. Palate stoniness along with citrus pip and peach kernel piquancy make for pithiness and slight austerity to this firmly textured and impressively persistent bottling. An intriguing wafting floral element suggestive of iris and narcissus is also bitterly shaded in comparison with the effusive perfume of the corresponding Heiligenstein. There is a dynamic sense of finishing interaction between the aforementioned elements and a bright citric juiciness, with coiled energy emerging as faintly electric tingling. I hope that bottling in screwcap doesn’t lock in the bit of reduction here.”
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Weingut Hirsch Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling, Kamptal 2013 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 10 bottles available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 93 points “Seductive wisteria and gentian perfume wafts from the glass, presaging a sweet sense of inner-mouth florality that perfectly complements this Riesling’s luscious depth of succulent peach, pineapple, orange and lime. A shimmering exchange with stony, saline and alkaline notes plays out on a silky palate, while the finish introduces an invigorating impression of crunched raspberry seeds, subtly integrating their bitterness and that of citrus oils into the floral, fruity, mineral mélange.”
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Schloss Gobelsburg Lamm Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2013 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 9 bottles available
Schloss Gobelsburg Lamm Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2013 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special, 2 magnums available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 94 points “The Kamptal’s iconic Grüner Veltliner vineyard has seldom if ever had to rise to a challenge like that of the other Gobelsburg 2013s from this variety. It succeeds in part by offering scents and flavors such as make one wonder how this could come from grapes. Hyacinth and freesia in the nose are mingled with nuances of alkaline and wet stone that then, along with toasted grain and mouthwatering veal stock, dominate the palate proceedings. That’s not to suggest that this wine lacks fruit. Apple, quince and honeydew offer a luscious presence, with complete transparency to mossy forest floor and mineral intrigue. Bittersweet floral perfume adds to the wine’s creamy, glossy inner-mouth allure. Rather than the energy and dynamic so memorable in the comparable Renner, this delivers an enveloping, buoyant wave of finishing flavor.”
Schloss Gobelsburg Lamm Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2014 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 6 bottles available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 92 points “Scents of acacia, mint, honeydew melon and earthy beet also inform the expansive palate, where the piquancy and minerality of chard is introduced, along with a cucumber-like sense of crunchy invigoration and refreshment more familiar from lighter-weight and less texturally rich examples of this grape. Smoky pungency suggests toasted buckwheat, and Madagascar peppercorn teams intriguingly with crushed stone in the long finish.”
Schloss Gobelsburg Renner Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2013 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 6 bottles available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 95 points “From Renner’s geologically complex Urgestein mix characteristically emerges a Grüner Veltliner of comparable complexity that’s indescribable without resorting to mineral vocabulary, and that is certainly true of this 2013. But there is so much more going on that it nearly makes me dizzy. A heady nose of lilac and iris, radish and raw ginger, along with hints of citrus and roasted root vegetables, sets the tone for what follows, an explosively concentrated interaction of grippingly piquant, pungent, incisive and brightly juicy elements. Apple and lime, caramelized parsnip and golden beet are mingled with smoky nut oils and laced with ginger, radish, iris root and white pepper. The reverberating finish adds to a kaleidoscopic whirl of the aforementioned elements an otherwise ineffable ore-like depth and saliva-inducing salinity. I was holding my breath that what I first tasted would be captured in bottle with complete success, and that’s happened.”
Schloss Gobelsburg Gaisberg Riesling, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 5 bottles available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 93-94 points “Where its Heiligenstein counterpart was luscious, soothing and florally perfumed, this Gaisberg is sharply focused and transparent to invigorating impingements of lime zest, white pepper, and stone. Its concentration of floral and green herbal elements takes a high-toned and palate-penetrating Chartreuse-like form. A fundament of white peach and lime guarantees lusciousness as well as refreshing primary juiciness. The finish is unusually sharp and vibrant for the vintage, and it will be fascinating to follow this wine’s fortunes in bottle.”
Schloss Gobelsburg Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling Lage, Kamptal 2013 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 6 bottles available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 92 points “Bittersweet, subtly musky scents of iris and peony complement hints of honey and spice borne of botrytis. Silken-textured and expansive, the palate here delivers quince and ripe white peach enveloped in billowing floral perfume and set against a background of wet stone, leading to a soothingly lingering yet tinglingly citric and crystalline finish. This doesn’t display the degree of animation, complexity, salinity or primary juiciness of the remarkable corresponding Gaisberg, but still represents a superb success, especially in the context of its vintage.”
Schloss Gobelsburg Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling Lage, Kamptal 2014 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 6 bottles available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 92 points “Bittersweet, subtly musky scents of iris and peony complement hints of honey and spice borne of botrytis. Silken-textured and expansive, the palate here delivers quince and ripe white peach enveloped in billowing floral perfume and set against a background of wet stone, leading to a soothingly lingering yet tinglingly citric and crystalline finish. This doesn’t display the degree of animation, complexity, salinity or primary juiciness of the remarkable corresponding Gaisberg, but still represents a superb success, especially in the context of its vintage.”
Schloss Gobelsburg Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling Lage, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($65.95) $51.90 special, 6 bottles available
David Schildknecht–Vinous 93-94 points “Iris, peony, white peach, honeydew melon, struck flint and ocean spray combine for a heady, dazzlingly diverse aromatic display that anticipates the complexity delivered on a silken-textured, lusciously fruity palate. Mint and anise add cooling allure on the way to a finish of soothing, superbly multilayered persistence. (I last tasted this shortly ahead of its midsummer bottling.)”
Weingut Willi Brundlmayer Zobinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben Reserve Riesling, Kamptal 2012 750ML (89.95) $69 special, 7 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “First offering. And an utter contrast to Lyra. This is all herbs and stones and hay, all in an ever-shifting mosaic; exceptionally pure, Gregorian, woodsy, even spicy and minty; it’s Riesling asserting every one of its flavors that aren’t flowers or fruits. I don’t know what’s on the far side of this, nor do I insist it’s as sensually pleasurable as the Lyra, but I’m sure they only make complete sense as a unit, each fitting over the other’s shadow like a palimpsest. A short note to my somm friends. I know your wine programs are agents of hospitality first and foremost. They’re not dissertations into the Very-Meaning-Of-Wine-Itself. Yet I also know that these two wines form a whole that’s enormously greater than the sum of its parts, and that some of what prompts you to buy are cerebral or conceptual concerns. If you drink these two Rieslings together, a door is flung open and your knowledge of wine is catapulted forward as if you’d been shot from a trebuchet.”
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Weingut Willi Brundlmayer Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling, Kamptal 2008 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 8 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “What a perfect time to reintroduce this lovely ’08. And what a perfect foil it is to the masterly ’13. The older wine is herbal and mineral, tansy and dill and romanescu. Back in ’09 I described it as piquant, and having “moon fruit.””
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
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Sottimano Fausoni Barbaresco – A Retrospective
When asked to name a few Barabresco I would recommend, all I need to say is Sottimano. Firstly, we’re deep on these, from some of my favorite vintages. Secondly, they’re tremendous wines with enough variety and style to please most any palate. My favorite from their cellar is the Fausoni. Located just outside Nieve, the wines from the vineyard are known for delicacy and balance. I think the Sottimano bottles show a vineyard that represents vintage tremendously well. We’ve got a good spread of years in close succession that represents the role of weather very well. There isn’t a ton available, but it is interesting drinking. Dig into the other Sottimano wines – there is a deft hand at work, with access to some amazing Nebbiolo. -Andy
2007: Coming on the heels of a cool vintage, the Fausoni jumped ahead of some of the wines that usually stand out. Antonio Galloni said, “The Fausoni is usually one of the lighter-weight Barbarescos here, but not in 2007. Dark red fruit, crushed flowers, licorice and sweet baking spices come together beautifully in this ripe, sensual Barbaresco. There is a wonderful richness to the fruit that virtualy covers the tannins, all while avoiding any sense of heaviness. Simply put, the Fausoni is an overachiever in this vintage.” This wine isn’t overdone, by any stretch of the imagination; it’s vivid and hitting its stride.
2009: The anomaly: in such a warm vintage the 09 kept its subtlety intact. Only a 20 maceration left the color vivid and ruby, and the aromatics are still more floral and spice than stewed. Stephen Tanzer’s take on the wine:“Musky, rather low-pitched aromas of red fruits and earth. Plush, sweet and mouthfilling, with captivating perfume and surprisingly sound acidity to the red berry and menthol flavors.”
2011: Jump ahead to 2011; a vintage hailed for its immediacy and warmth. The wine shows true here, with softer tannins than are usually expected from Fausoni. This makes the wine petal soft and ready to drink now, in its comparable youth. Again, Galloni, “The 2011 Barbaresco Fausoni is unusually supple, sexy and radiant. Freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, tobacco and mint all lift from the glass. Fausoni often shows firmer, livelier tannins, but the warm 2011 vintage has softened the contours and yielded an inviting, resonant Barbaresco to drink now and over the next handful of years.”
2012: A wine that drinks so well right now, you might well be forgiven for not aging it. It has, however, a rigid backbone of acidity and minerality that lets you know it will roll on for a number of years. The raspberry fruit is lightly spiced and definitely floral. It showcases the delicacy that can come from Barbaresco. Nebbiolo can sing in vintages like this.
Sottimano Fausoni, Barbaresco DOCG 2007 750ML ($84.95) $69 special, 5 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The Fausoni is usually one of the lighter-weight Barbarescos here, but not in 2007. Dark red fruit, crushed flowers, licorice and sweet baking spices come together beautifully in this ripe, sensual Barbaresco. There is a wonderful richness to the fruit that virtually covers the tannins, all while avoiding any sense of heaviness. Simply put, the Fausoni is an overachiever in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027.”
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Sottimano Fausoni, Barbaresco DOCG 2009 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Advocate 92 points “A sweet, floral bouquet infused with a note of mint announces the 2009 Barbaresco Fausoni. This mid-weight, gracious Barbaresco is all about finesse, detail and nuance. I very much like the sense of energy here. Firm yet well-balanced tannins frame the long finish. The balance of fruit, acidity and structure is about as harmonious as it gets in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.” WA
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Sottimano Fausoni, Barbaresco DOCG 2011 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 17 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 93 points “The 2011 Barbaresco Fausoni is unusually supple, sexy and radiant. Freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, tobacco and mint all lift from the glass. Fausoni often shows firmer, livelier tannins, but the warm 2011 vintage has softened the contours and yielded an inviting, resonant Barbaresco to drink now and over the next handful of years. Sweet floral notes from these soils rich in sand add the final nuances of complexity. What a gorgeous wine this is.”
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Crushed raspberry, blue flower, tilled soil and graphite aromas lead the nose on this firmly structured wine. It’s still very young and needs to open up fully, but the palate already displays breeding and class. It offers ripe black cherry, ground black pepper, licorice and grilled sage alongside tightly wound but fine tannins. Drink 2018–2026.”
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Sottimano Fausoni, Barbaresco DOCG 2012 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 13 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “Sottimano’s 2012 Barbaresco Fausoni shows highly impressive results with a smooth entry to the palate followed by bright fruit flavors that are fused with floral accents, spice and licorice. Fausoni reveals pretty transparency with brilliant garnet accents. The aromas are tonic, vibrant and fresh. There’s plenty of menthol and cardamon-infused lift on the finish. This is a very satisfying wine that promises a long life ahead.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2012 Barbaresco Fausoni is a very pretty, up-front wine with lovely fruit and precision. Crushed raspberries, flowers and sweet spices grace the palate as the wine opens up in the glass. The flavors are nicely layered in a soft, delicate Barbaresco that shows the more perfumed, aromatic side of Nebbiolo. In 2012, the Fausoni is all about immediacy.”
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The “Other, Other” Pichler:
2013 Kellerberg From Pichler-Krutzler
Erich Krutzler is a famous winemaker in his own right, having started the Moric project in Burgenland before moving around the region making internationally recognized wines, however until he married the daughter of FX Pichler, his name was less than recognizable to most wine lovers in the US. His project with his wife, Pichler-Krutlzer, is based around the great vineyards of the Wachau and has captured our hearts. The wine we’re featuring today comes from the Kellerberg, possibly the greatest vineyard site in the region. Krutzler prefers brighter, fresher wines than his father-in-law, so these wines tend to have a little less power and a lot more versatility at the table. They’re breathtakingly complex, but you can actually drink them with food. Also (and more importantly) their priced much more reasonably than the FX wines. The FX Kellerberg from 2013 was $99 and sold out quickly. This one is only $49 and, well, we don’t think it will last that long, either.
Arriving Friday
Pichler-Krutzler Kellerberg Riesling, Wachau 2013 750ML ($69.95) $49 pre-arrival special
David Schildknecht–Vinous 94 points “Picked the same day, November 6, as the corresponding old-vines Pfaffenberg, this was the last of the Pichler-Krutzler 2013s to have been racked from its full lees. It offers ripe Mirabelle, peach and quince accented by grapefruit and nut oils, with lily- and rowan-like floral notes having emerged with time in bottle. Voluminous, glossy and opulently rich, it gains welcome counterpoint by way of site-typically smoky Szechuan or Madagascar peppercorn-like bite, leading to a finish of phenomenal sheer persistence. A subtle sense of sweetness is entirely supportive of a picture that reflects the ripeness and intensity of tiny but botrytis-free berries.”
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Vougeraie’s Ascension
Officially founded in 1999, Domaine de la Vougeraie represents the uniting of several domaines owned by the Boisset family. Pulling the name from the family’s significant holdings in the village of Vougeot, and indeed Jean-Claude Boisset’s home “Vougeraie”, the domaine was put together from the various vineyard holdings accrued through the Boisset acquisitions of Burgundian houses over the years.
A family estate uniting a collection of the most prestigious, historical vineyards in Burgundy, Domaine de la Vougeraie is comprised of a mosaic of 67 plots, with two-thirds on the Côte de Nuits, and the remainder on the Côte de Beaune, including six grand crus (Musigny, Bonnes Mares, Clos Vougeot, Charmes Chambertin, Mazoyères, Corton Clos du Roi and Corton Charlemagne).
The winery has strictly adhered to organic and Biodynamic farming as of 2007, which coincided with the change from Pascal Marchand to Pierre Vincent as winemaker. Vincent’s style has been noticeably more elegant than his predecessor, making some of the finest wines in the Cote d’Or. Best yet, the wines still manage to fly under the radar, commercially, so they often represent some of the finest values of their relative appelations. Unfortunately for Vougeraie, Vincent will be making the wines at Domaine Leflaive starting in 2017, so consider this an opportunity to get his wines while they’re affordable and available.
Domaine de la Vougeraie Cote de Beaune Les Pierres Blanches, Burgundy 2012 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 4 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 90 points “The 2012 Côtes de Beaune Les Pierres Blanches is marked by its fabulous energy and precision. Green pear, lemon, slate and grapefruit jump from the glass in a precise, finely cut white to drink now and over the next few years.” AG
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Domaine de la Vougeraie Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyeres Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2011 750ML ($199.95) $149 special, 10 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96+ points “Bright, full red. Musky red berries, flowers, leather and potpourri spices on the complex nose. Juicy and penetrating, conveying excellent energy and lift to the complex flavors of red fruits, smoky underbrush and saline minerality. Rich, dense and creamy but with lovely restraint. Finishes with a firm edge of tannins and excellent building length. Already quite nuanced but I’d hold this for at least three or four years.” ST
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Domaine de la Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice, Cote de Nuits 2012 750ML ($99.95) $69 special, 8 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points “Well-marked by new oak, this leads off with vanilla and toast aromas, followed by cherry and black currant flavors lurking underneath, marshaled by vivid acidity and embedded
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Domaine de la Vougeraie Les Corvees Pagets, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($99.95) $69 special, 14 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer—Vinous 92 points “Good medium red. Spicy red berries dominate the nose. Sweet, round and silky, with harmonious acidity giving shape to the flavors of raspberry, flowers, chocolate and pepper. Very polished, graceful wine with piquant finishing minerality and sneaky concentration. Delicious already but has the balance to age.”
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Domaine de la Vougeraie Les Damodes, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($119.95) $69 special, 12 bottles available
Burghound 90-93 points “Here the wood treatment is more obvious though still relatively modest as it allows the ripe, earth and appealingly spicy red currant, plum, violet and rose petal aromas to shine. I very much like the mouth feel of the distinctly mineral-tinged medium-bodied flavors that possess outstanding complexity while concluding in a tension-filled and impressively persistent finish. The balance of structural elements is perfect and this should age effortlessly for up to a decade.”
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Calabretta: Throwback Wines From Etna
“If you want to be the only one, you must be different”
Etna has become the newest hottest region in Sicily, and for good reason. Jancis Robinson even called it “the Burgundy of the Meditteranean,” which is an apt description of most of the new wines coming off of the high altitude slopes of Sicily’s volcano. There is another traditional style of wine made on Etna as well, though, one that tends to have a foot in Barolo rather than in Burgundy, and it’s best practitioner is Calabretta.
The winery was founded in 1900 and for the majority of the time since then only sold wine in barrel or in demijohns to private customers (who would bottle the wine themselves) or to local restaurants. Since the beginning, the farming has been organic, without chemical pesticides or herbicides—dated for a majority of the life of the winery and suddenly in vogue now. In 1997, the third and fourth generation of the family decided that the future lay in bottling estate wines and releasing them under a family label.
The one thing that didn’t change when Calabretta started bottling was a commitment to old-school vinification and aging. Macerations of up to 60 days are common as is long aging in botti (often up to 6 years for the high end wine). The wines are powerful and structured, but unlike wines from lower altitudes maintain a freshness and vibrancy to them. The other unique thing that the Calabretta family does is bottle their entry level wines as Non-Vintage (really Multi-Vintage) wines. Rather than making a simple wine and shipping it quickly, the basic wines age for years in barrel before being blended to ensure that the resulting wine has both a distinctive signature and the softness needed to drink now.
Calabretta Cala Cala Bianco, Sicily 2015 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 7 bottles available
VinopolNote: “This wine has a lot of power and richness packed into this bottle. Made from old vine Carracante and a few other grapes, this wine has plenty of body and stone fruits (think apricots and a little more tropical) but also a nuttiness and enough acidity to keep everything in check.”
Importer note “Hand harvested, many vines on original un-grafted rootstock. Average age of the vines 60-80 years old – some over 100 years old.”
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Calabretta Cala Cala Rosso, Sicily NV 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 21 bottles available
Importer notes “Slow Food’s current Slow Wine guide describes Calabretta’s style as “a thousand miles away” from other Italian wine, but the gap might be better measured in time, since the estate seems stuck somewhere in the 19th century. Today, few adhere to Etna’s ancient practices. But one great estate, Calabretta, continues to make its majestic reds as in the past, releasing them only after a decade in their cellar. The wines are extraordinary—and the prices are extraordinarily low.”
“95% Nerello Mascalese & 5% Nerello Cappuccio from various parcels around Etna that Calabretta owns and aged partially in large botti and partially in stainless steel. Sourced from a mix of young and old vines. Cala Cala means “Gulp, Gulp” says Massimiliano, meaning you should gulp this one down because it’s so tasty!”
Calabretta ‘Gaio Gaio’ Rosso, Sicily 2014 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 12 bottles available
Winery note “GaioGaio: red wine from young vineyards in contrada Calderara. Origin from a rigorous “massale” (ancient vinyards) selection of the vines with a significant number of ungrafted vines. Fruity & floral, light spicy. Dedicated to my father (Gaio)”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Calabretta Sicilia Rosso Cappuccio 2013 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 11 bottles available
Importer note “Since the winery’s founding in 1900, the Calabretta family has farmed and produced wines from Etna’s ancient indigenous varieties—including Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio—in the mountain’s unique noble vineyards. Historically, the family had sold its wine in sfuso or in barrel to restaurants and to private customers, many of whom travelled long distances to pick up their wine. But in 1997, third and fourth-generation father and son Massimo and Massimiliano Calabretta decided to bottle their best wine under their own label to ensure the winemaking traditions of their family and Etna would not be lost.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
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Long Name, Longer History
The Piedmontese Wines of Cordero di Montezemolo
Cordero di Montezemolo, in Barolo, was founded in 1340. We’ll let that sink in for a second. That’s a long time, by any measure, and when you have one family, in the same place, farming the same land, generation after generation, you are bound to become really good at it. That’s very true here. Aside from a detour into modernism in the 90’s, the Montezemolo wines have been really wonderful, classic examples of Piedmontese wines in their respective categories.
They’re best known for their Baroli, but don’t sleep on the Dolcetto and Barbera as well. Those wines are delicious—well made and extremely affordable, especially given the quality and pedigree of the wines produced. The Barolo deserves the special attention it gets. Super long lived and extremely complex (their wines from the 60’s and 70’s are stunning today), it nevertheless is extremely well price. That’s something we can all be happy about.
Cordero di Montezemolo Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont 2015 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 special, 29 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 90 points “The 2015 Barbera d’Alba is gorgeous. Rich, radiant and expressive, the Barbera captures all the personality and radiance of the vintage. Black cherry, plum, smoke, licorice, new leather and spices flesh out in a supple, radiant Barbera to enjoy on the young side. The Barbera spent six months in oak.”
Wine Spectator 90 points “This rich, dark red exudes violet, blackberry, plum and leafy flavors, with light tannins and vivid acidity. Finishes with freshness and spice. Drink now through 2020.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Cordero di Montezemolo Dolcetto d’Alba, Piedmont 2015 750ML ($21.95) $16.60 special, 11 bottles available
Wine Spectator 89 points “A well of cherry jam and boysenberry fruit is accented by black pepper in this boisterous red. Dusty tannins line the finish. Drink now.”
Antonio Galloni 88 points “The 2015 Dolcetto d’Alba is dark, rich and quite powerful, with plenty of dark fruit and more than enough intensity to drink well for a number of years. This is an especially tannic Dolcetto that will benefit from another 6-12 months in barrel.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Cordero di Montezemolo Enrico VI, Barolo DOCG 2010 750ML ($119.95) $85 special, 2 bottles available
James Suckling 96 points “Wonderful aromas of crushed berries and flowers here. Particularly roses. Full body, with fine yet chewy tannins and a long intense finish. Needs four or five years to open. Best wine ever from here?” JS
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The estate’s Barolo Enrico VI, which emerges from the Villero vineyard in Castiglione Falletto, is one of the most beautiful wines I have tasted here in some time. Vivid and layered in the glass, the 2010 is all about polish, silkiness and pure nuance. Sweet, silky tannins support a core of dark red cherries, plums, tobacco, menthol and smoke, all in a textured, layered style that is hugely appealing. The Enrico VI is a wine of significant potential. I can’t wait to see how it ages.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2010 Barolo Enrico VI sees fruit sourced from the celebrated Villero cru in Castiglione Falletto. It’s hard not to be enthusiastically impressed by this gorgeous effort. The fruit is stunning and dark with a deep, penetrating level of aromatic intensity that spans from creme de cassis to dried licorice root. In the mouth, it is extraordinarily bright and silky and the seamless finish can be counted in long, delicious minutes. A special nod goes the high energy and vibrant quality of this beautiful Barolo. Drink: 2016-2026.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto, Barolo DOCG 2012 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 11 bottles available
James Suckling 94 points “Muscular and buff for the vintage with plenty of plum, terra-cotta and dry soil aromas and flavors. Full body, flavorful finish. Drink in 2018.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
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Chateau de Pressac: The Glory of St. Emilion
Chateau de Pressac has all of the things we love about St. Emilion—power, voluptuous fruit and a price that is lower than you’d expect given the quality of the raw material inside. The chateau is owned by the Quenin family, who purchased the property in 1997 and they have been committed to improving the quality of the winery and (more importantly) the vineyards, hiring the top consultants in the region to improve the quality of the grapes they grow. We’re excited to offer this wine, arriving this Fall, at extremely sharp pricing.
Arriving in September
Chateau de Pressac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2014 750ML ($39.95) $31.90 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 92 points “A gorgeous wine, the 2014 de Pressac is dark, bold and voluptuous. Dark cherry, plum, bittersweet chocolate, smoke, lavender, sage and licorice all run through it. Deeply expressive, pliant and succulent, the 2014 will drink well with minimal cellaring. The dark, flamboyant style works beautifully here.The blend is 69% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon plus dollops of Malbec and Carmenère. Tasted two times.”
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