January 11th Newsletter

The wines of Keller are as smart a choice as any – nigh, smarter – for someone who needs convincing that German wines are among the most exciting wines in the world. Thankfully, we’ve moved past the days of bulk wine and Blue Nun; the drinking public are largely aware that German wine isn’t always sweet and, still, it’s delicious when it is. With palates primed, we’re finally deserving of what Keller has to offer.

Winemaker Klaus Peter and his wife Julia occupy a number of great vineyards within the Rheinhessen and headquartered in Flörsheim-Dalsheim. Peter deftly maneuvers between allowing the wines to speak clearly and transparently and ensuring that the winemaking process allows that. In other words, he doesn’t look to get in the way while still being hands-on.

The Peters and their team have studied their vineyards to the extent of drilling between 50,000-75,000 holes in order to better understand soil composition. Harvest is done by hand, and extremely selectively. Only native yeasts partake in fermentation, with a mixture of stainless steel and oak barrels used. The resultant wines are uncompromising in quality, with a seemingly infinite lifespan.

Weingut Keller ‘Von der Fels Riesling’ Trocken, Rheinhessen 2014 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles available
John Gilman 92+ points “Year in and year out, I am a huge fan of the von der Fels bottling and the 2014 vintage is another outstanding wine in the making. This is a touch fuller than the straight Riesling Trocken, coming in at twelve percent alcohol, and perhaps a bit more ageworthy as well. The excellent nose wafts from the glass in a mix of pink grapefruit, tangerine, petrol, a stunningly complex base of minerality, lemongrass and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is fullbodied, pure and very much defined by its complex soil tones, with a rock solid core, outstanding focus and grip and a very long, youthful and bouncy finish. This is still very early days for this outstanding wine, which is the same quality level of a lot of top estates Grosses Gewächs bottlings. 2019-2040.” JG
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 90 points “Keller’s 2014 Riesling Von Der Fels Trocken was born as a selection of younger vines, but these are more than 25 years old today. Sourced in the grands crus, this Riesling trocken shows a highly expressive shell limestone flavor with flinty/smoky aromas of crushed stones, and the typic lemon flavor of chalky soils along with white fruit flavors. Full-flavored, very delicate and finesse-full on the palate, this is an elegant, filigreed, lovely, pure and very frisky Riesling, with ripe fruit flavors and a stimulatingly salty finish. With just three grams of residual sugar, it’s the driest von der Fels so far.” WAWeingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Rheinhessen 2014 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 23 bottles available
John Gilman 94+ points “The 2014 Hubacker Grosses Gewächs is also brilliantly refined this year, as the inherent elegance of the vintage in the Hügelland has dovetailed beautifully with the style of this wine. This bottling can often be a touch more “broad-shouldered” out of the blocks than the other Grosses Gewächs in the Keller portfolio, but not this year, as it shares the same great elegance of the entire range. The outstanding bouquet really shows its yellow limestone signature, as it delivers scents of apple, tangerine, gentle notes of petrol, wild yeasts, orange peel, lovely smokiness and a gorgeously complex base of limestone minerality. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and complex, with a fine core, vibrant acids and excellent focus and grip on the long, zesty and utterly seamless finish. A glorious Hubacker to celebrate its 225th anniversary! 2022-2060.” JG
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2014 Dalsheim Hubacker Riesling trocken Grosses Gewachs shows a clear, more open and fruity bouquet with just a hint of chalk and lemon flavors, compared to the other Grosses Gewächs wines. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, very clear, elegant and quite concentrated Riesling with power, phenols and complexity; but it is less stimulating at the moment compared to the Kirchspiel. The finish is very aromatic in its grapey character, pure and salty. However, the wine should be aged for at least another 3-4 years.” SRWeingut Keller Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Rheinhessen 2014 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 29 bottles available
John Gilman 94+ points “The 2014 GG from the Kirchspiel is a great wine in the making, but I would want to allow this perfectly balanced and youthful wine to rest comfortably in the cellar for at least the next seven years before I start to drink it, as it has a ton to offer behind its suave, but serious structural elements. The stunning nose offers up a constellation of grapefruit, a touch of tart orange, wild yeasts, dried flowers, lime zest and a refined base of stony limestone minerality. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish and very pure and tightly-knit, with outstanding mid-palate depth, great cut and focus, impeccable balance and a very long, elegant and laser-like finish. At 12.5 percent alcohol, this is a touch lower in octane than many other recent top vintages, but this has just added to its refinement. A beautiful vintage of Kirchspiel. 2022-2060.” JG
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 92 points “From vines planted in the mid 1960s, the 2014 Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling trocken Grosses Gewachs offers a very clear, fresh and precise bouquet of white fruits, lemon juice and chalky flavors. Intense and piquant on the palate, with a lingering juiciness and fruit intensity of old vines, this is an impressive cru with a very good, tension-filled length and stimulating salinity.” SR

Weingut Keller Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Rheinhessen 2014 750ML ($149.95) $128 special, 18 bottles available
John Gilman 97 points “The 2014 Abtserde is also brilliant utterly seamless on the palate. The magical and still quite youthful nose delivers a complex blend of apple, grapefruit, lemon zest, a very refined base of chalky minerality, a touch of wild yeasts and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and elegant, with great purity at the core, stunning transparency and brilliant length and grip on the focused and dancing finish. The acids here are ripe and the slightly lower octane found in the Keller GGs across the board in 2014 only seems to enhance the inherent elegance of this great young wine. 2025-2065+.” JG
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 95 points “Kept for 40 hours on the skins, Keller’s always very low-yielding 2014 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs is sharp and precise on the nose like a laser sword cutting through a chalky rock, leaving dust and grated lemon skins. Coming from a vineyard with high active chalk in the soil, this wine is medium to full-bodied, very pure, elegant, and full of energy and concentration; it is piquant, precise and provided with a straight, super long and tension-filled finish with stimulatingly juicy fruit in the persistent aftertaste. This is great dry Riesling from a difficult year, which was, however, not that difficult in the Abtserde (a special plot inside the Brunnenhäuschen). Due to regularly poor fruit sets (coulure), the grapes are never that compact; the grapes consist partly of extremely small and seedless berries, which might explain the intensity of Keller’s Abtserde. Generally, this is a great advantage in misty autumns like in 2014, because the wind dries the berries quickly and keeps them healthy. I recommend to drink the Abtserde from Zalto’s Burgundy glasses, which bring out the chalky/salty character even better than the Universal glass from which I tasted the wine.” SR

In Piedmonte, there is a war that has been brewing between winemakers about tradition and modern techniques. Up until the mid-nineteenth century, the thin skinned Nebbiolo grape was made into mostly table wines, some were even (gasp) sweet. A French winemaker by the name of Louis Oudart was brought into the region to develop a more advanced style, a more age-worthy intellectual wine, and hence the term for it was coined “King of Kings.”  His style was then emulated by other producers in the region to become what Barolos are so famous and sought after for today: bold, tannic, made for cellaring. But patience is a virtue.Enter the new modernists of Piedmonte. In the 1980’s, a few winemakers began searching for and adopting different techniques to make their wines more approachable and sellable to the consumer to enjoy shortly after releasing.  Now the consumer is presented with options. Do you plan ahead and buy a wine to be laid down for 10 years? Or do you buy an impressive wine for the dinner party guests you have coming tonight? And how do you decode these vintages and producers?

At the young age of 15 Bruno succeeded his family in making wines and went on to be one of the top three classic producers in Nieve. The 2005 vintage was his last before suffering a stroke in 2006, after which he lightened his work in the vineyard. He is such a perfectionist he has been known to decide against releasing certain vintages, notably 2006 and 2010. His 2005 receives high scores from critics. It is approaching drinkability now, and can probably keep for another 15 years. Decant, decant, decant!Falletto di Bruno Giacosa ‘Falletto’, Barolo DOCG 2005 750ML ($249.95) $149 special, 36+ bottles available
Wine Advocate & Stephen Tanzer 94 points “The 2005 Barolo Falletto offers up a gorgeous bouquet of red cherries, flowers, spices and menthol. This is a relatively delicate, elegant Barolo Falletto yet it offers gorgeous balance, tons of inner perfume and a long, refined finish. It is one of the overachievers in 2005. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.”WA

Falletto di Bruno Giacosa ‘Le Rocche del Falletto’, Barolo DOCG 2005 1.5L ($499.95) $419 special, 2 magnums available
Wine Advocate 96+ points, Wine Spectator & Stephen Tanzer 95 points “The 2005 Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto is a massive, towering Barolo loaded with tons of rich, primary fruit. The wine remains powerful, dense and muscular with superb length even if it is a smaller-scaled Barolo compared to previous great vintages. That said, when I came back to the wine after it had been in the glass for an hour or so, I found that the wine had grown remarkably. While the 2005 doesn’t have the explosive personality of the 2004, it remains an awesome achievement in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035.”WA

The Brovia family estate has been making wine since 1863. They own some of the finest crus of Piedmont and, although not formally certified, have been farming organically for generations.  Careful analysis of the soils in their vineyards, pruning, and complete hand harvesting are all part of what makes these wines come together with perfect balance. They have been producing wines with immense structure and worthy of age, but what sets this one apart is the 2011 vintage. Winemakers had to be particular with their decisions based on the finicky nature of the growing season.  Most of the fruit in the 2011 Barolo normale is from young vines, making it a supple wine more readily palatable.

Brovia Barolo DOCG 2011 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 7 bottles available
Case-12 Brovia Barolo DOCG 2011 750ML ($619.95) $519 special, 1 case available (that’s only $43.25/bottle!)
Antonio Galloni 90-92 points “The 2011 Barolo is sumptuous and expressive, with all of the immediacy that is so typical of the year. Dark red cherry, plums, hard candy, spice and tobacco are all woven into a layered finish graced with soft contours and fabulous overall balance for a straight Barolo. As Brovia fans know, the straight Barolo is 70% young-vine fruit from Brea (above 20 years of age), plus the wine that is left over when the single-vineyard Barolos go into cask.”

Brovia ‘Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia’, Barolo DOCG 2011 750ML ($89.95) $77 special, 1 bottle available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Lavender, mint, sage, smoke, tobacco and plums are all laced together in the 2011 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca’Mia. As always, the Ca’Mia is a decidedly vertical Barolo built on a spine of persistent tannin, but in 2011 there is a little bit of added polish that serves to soften the contours. Tucked off the main road, Brea remains one of the least well-known vineyards in Serralunga. The 2011 is a great wine to start exploring some of the nuances of this site. A huge finish that brings together power and voluptuousness captures the pure radiance of the year.” AG

Brovia Garblet Sue Barolo DOCG 2011 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 22 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2011 Barolo Garblèt Sue’ is remarkably polished and sophisticated, two qualities that are rarely found in this Castiglione Falletto site, where the wines tend to be much more sinewy and virile. White pepper, pomegranate and sweet red cherries are some of the notes that open up in the glass. The flavors remain bright, focused and beautifully delineated in the glass. I very much like the sense of energy here, although I have to admit, the softer edges of 2011 are incredibly alluring.” AG

Brovia Rocche dei Brovia, Barolo DOCG 2011 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 1 bottle available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2011 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is sweet, floral and wonderfully expressive, all Brovia signatures. Silky tannins provide the backdrop as this sensual, polished Barolo shows off its class. Perfumed notes are woven throughout, but it is the wine’s exceptional textural finesse that stands out most. Hints of hard candy, mint, cinnamon and succulent red cherries add the final shades of dimension. In 2011, the Rocche stands out for its total sense of class.” AG

Brovia Villero, Barolo DOCG 2011 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 4 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2011 Barolo Villero is one of the most structured wines in the range. Here the firm tannins and ample frame both suggest the 2011 will drink well for many years, once the tannins start softening. Orange peel, wild flowers, red stone fruits and spices flesh out on the creamy finish. It’s always interesting to taste the Villero next to the Rocche, as the two sites are pretty close to the other, yet the wines are remarkably different. Here the heat of the year is quite evident, while the Rocche benefits from greater ventilation and therefore a bit more freshness.” AG

Domenico started out making wine in the 70’s after the traditionalist techniques, gearing towards producing age-worthy juice. He then went on to take an extreme left turn to experiment with more modern artistry, using barriques and trying to find a middle ground with his production. His sole philosophy is that the quality of the grapes is the key to predicting the results of the wine, not necessarily the techniques.  Domenico has found a middle ground which prevents him from being assigned to just one school of expertise, but instead stands out to be the unique talent that he is.Domenico Clerico Ciabot Mentin, Barolo DOCG 2008 750ML ($119.95) $79 special, 11 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 96 points “(Clerico is no longer using Ginestra on the label as of 2007: a change in the law recognized numerous crus, including Ginestra, but since many other growers use Ginestra on their labels, Clerico decided to name this wine after his own parcel): Medium red.  Deeper and richer on the nose than the Pajana, with scents of redcurrant, mocha, dried flowers and earth.  Wonderfully deep, layered and sweet; lush but with good limestone lift.  This floods the palate with flavor and lingers with exceptional purity and persistence.” ST

Domenico Clerico Arte Rosso Langhe 2011 1.5L ($89.95) $59 special, 36+ magnums available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “(90% nebbiolo and 10% barbera; aged for 18 months in new French oak):  Good medium red.  Perfumed aromas and flavors of plum, redcurrant, tobacco and spices.  Intense and vibrant, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic lift.  Very classy, delineated wine.” ST

The Chevillons have been part of the winemaking history of Nuit St Georges since Symphorien Chevillon began producing in the early 1900s; several generations of Chevillons worked to build their vineyards, with Robert at the helm until 2003, when he passed the winemaking to his sons Denis and Bertrand. Their land consists of roughly 13 hectares in Nuits-St. George, mostly Premier Cru, from which they produce a wide selection of single vineyard bottlings each year.

The wines are all made the same manner, with only the degree of new oak varying between between the villages and 1er Crus.  The domaine sticks with 30% new wood for the 1er Crus, the villages normally being brought-up in something closer to 20% new wood, the remainder a blend of 2-3 year-old barrels. There are no tricks or shortcuts Chez Chevillon; rows are regularly plowed, with naturally low yields and careful vineyard treatments only when necessary.

Domaine Robert Chevillon produce benchmark for Nuit St George and Burgundy-at-large. Famous for the transparency and consistency of their winemaking–Chevillon finds a way to let the vintage and the terroir speak for itself every year. We’re proud to carry a wide spectrum of the domaine’s wines, all listed below.

Domaine Robert Chevillon Wines Available Here Now

Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Bousselots, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($99.95) $69 special, 18 bottles available
Burghound 89-91 points “The well-layered mélange of red currant, blue berry and wet stone nuances marries seamlessly into slightly earthy, precise and energetic flavors that possess a firm but not hard tannic spine, all wrapped in a delicious and saline-infused finish. This is also quite understated yet stylish and I very much like the purity of expression.” BH

Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Bousselots, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 750ML ($119.95) $88 special, 10 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 90-92 points “Good bright, dark red. Deep aromas of black raspberry, minerals, smoke and flowers, along with notes of licorice and dark chocolate; ripe and sexy. A step up in density and finesse of texture from the Chaignots, offering good acid spine to its wild dark fruit flavors. Quite dry and uncompromising today, finishing bright and long, with serious tannins and a juicy character. A very good showing.” ST

Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Cailles, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($139.95) $99 special, 36+ bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “As complex as the Pruliers is, the Les Cailles ratchets it up yet another notch with its spicy and pure blend of cassis, plum, violet and distinct iron-infused earth. There is excellent richness to the cool and equally pure medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent focus on the explosively long finish. The tannins are dense but quite fine and this offers outstanding upside development potential.” BHDomaine Robert Chevillon Les Cailles, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 750ML ($179.95) $149 special, 10 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 93-95 points “Bright, deep red. Pungent crushed-stone minerality accents musky black cherry and red berries on the almost liqueur-like nose. Juicy, supple and energetic on the palate, communicating a sappy, youthfully imploded character and a magically light touch for such a rich wine. The tactile, slowly building finish saturates the mouth with red fruits and crushed stone. Great potential here.” STDomaine Robert Chevillon Aux Chaignots, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($99.95) $69 special, 23 bottles available
Burghound 89-91 points “Here too discreet wood spice frames a pretty and cool mix of red and dark pinot fruit that is trimmed in warm earth nuances that are also reflected by the refined, pure and silky middle weight flavors. There is fine complexity and verve to the well-defined and persistent finish. A classic Chaignots of grace and harmony with no lack of aging potential.” BH

Domaine Robert Chevillon Aux Chaignots, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 3 bottles available
Antonio Galloni–Vinous 90-92 points “The 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Chaignots is one of the more supple wines in this range. As such, it won’t demand as much cellar time as many of the other Chevillon 2012s. Gently spiced notes open up in the glass, followed by sweet red berries, flowers and cinnamon. The 2012 is soft and understated, with lovely overall balance and tons of medium-term appeal. This is another gracious, totally inviting wine from Chevillon.” AG

Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Perrieres, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($109.95) $89 special, 6 bottles available
Burghound 90-92 points “Here the nose just soars from the glass to reveal strikingly fresh and pure red berry fruit, wet stone and discreet earth hints. There is an equally striking sense of energy to the precise, intense and stony middle weight flavors that possess very fine balance and depth, all wrapped in a lingering and notably firm finish that suggests that this will need 10 to 12 years to reach its apogee.” BH

Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Roncieres, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($99.95) $69 special, 19 bottles available
Burghound 90-93 points “There is a trace of herbal tea that adds breadth to the otherwise exceptionally fresh and equally pure red currant and wild cherry aromas. There is really beautiful intensity to the precise flavors that are on the lighter side yet deliver that wonderful quality of power without weight. This is first rate as it’s balanced, harmonious and offers excellent depth and length.”BHDomaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes 2011 750ML ($69.95) $51.90 special, 23 bottles available
Burghound 87-89 points “A discreet touch of wood sets off equally fresh and bright red berry fruit and soft earth aromas that give way to mouth coating, delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that possess good mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a seductively textured, balanced and solidly persistent finish.”BHDomaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes 2012 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 8 bottles available
Antonio Galloni: “The 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges is another wine with considerable near and medium term appeal. There is a lovely immediacy and juiciness in the glass. Hints of red stone fruits and spices inform the pliant, supple finish.”

Domaine Dugat-Py Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2008 750ML ($599.95) $499 pre-arrival special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94+ points; Antonio Galloni 95+ points “The estate’s 2008 Mazis-Chambertin is drop-dead gorgeous from start to finish. A dazzling, captivating bouquet melds into dark fruit, mint, flowers and sweet spices as this powerful, complex wine grows in the glass. All of the elements continue to build towards the undeniable, explosive finish. This is a hugely impressive, towering wine from Dugat-Py.