Vinopolis April 14 Newsletter

April 14, 2014

Vinopolis on the Move

 
As announced last week, we are moving soon to a new location at 1610 Northwest Glisan Street. We don’t have an exact date of the new opening yet but expect it to be around April 25 -28. Until then, business as usual here. Today you’ll find our normal Monday slate of new arrivals, important wines coming very soon, and special offers… 

USA-OREGON
Love & Squalor Riesling Willamette Valley 2012 ($18.95) $16 special
Arterberry Maresh Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard 2012 ($69.95) $59 special
Cameron Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012 ($21.95) $18 specialSineann Pinot Noir Resonance Vineyard 2012 ($49.95) $41.90 special
Wine Spectator 93 points”Vibrant and expansive, with fine tannins underlining the dark berry, clotted cream, mint and spice flavors, coming together harmoniously as the finish lingers. Drink now through 2019. 900 cases made.”Sineann Pinot Noir Yates Conwill 2012 ($41.95) $36 special
Wine Spectator 91 points “Smooth and round, pulsing with coffee and mineral accents around a core of blackberry and currant flavors, coming together harmoniously on the finish. Drink now through 2020. 700 cases made”USA-WASHINGTON
Sineann Cabernet Sauvignon Baby Poux 2012 ($41.95) $36 special
Sineann Cabernet Sauvignon Block One 2012 ($71.95) $66 special
Sineann Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2012 ($49.95) $41.90 special

K Vintners The Boy Grenache 2012 ($49.95) $40.90 special

K Vintners Northridge Merlot 2011 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “This wine presents an inky purple color to go with a knockout nose of creme de cassis, crushed stone-like minerality, violets and graphite. Full-bodied, supple and concentrated, with integrated acidity, sweet fruit and building tannin, it should be reasonably approachable on release and deliver the goods for upwards of a decade. Drink 2014-2021.”

K Vintners Syrah Riverrock 2011 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “Showing the cooler nature of the vintage, with lively blackberry, smoke, lavender and crushed stone, it doesn’t lack for richness or depth and has full-bodied power, great acidity and a long, classy finish. I imagine it will benefit from short-term cellaring once released and have a lengthy drink window. Drink 2016-2023.”

K Vintners Syrah Clifton 2011 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 92-94 points “Loaded with potential, it exhibits a dense, full-bodied profile to go with already complex aromas and flavors. Showing the freshness of the vintage with its juicy, integrated acidity, it has beautiful ripeness, no hard edges and superb overall balance.  It should be reasonably approachable on release and age gracefully. Drink 2015-2026.”

Mark Ryan Viognier 2012 ($34.95) $28 special
Mark Ryan Wild Eyed Syrah 2011 ($59.95) $49 specialMark Ryan Dead Horse 2011 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “More firm, concentrated and structured, the 2011 Dead Horse is Mark’s Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend and checks in as 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, all from Red Mountain. Aged for 21 months in 72% new French oak, it’s slightly brooding and backwards with black fruits, smoked earth, coffee bean and spice box aromas and flavors as showing with some aggressive swirling. Medium to full-bodied, fresh, beautifully balanced and with big minerality on the finish, it’s a serious Washington blend that will reward 2-4 years in the cellar and have 15-20 years of ultimate longevity. Drink 2015-2031. An estate that’s getting up into the creme de la creme of Washington State producers, Mark Ryan Winery was founded by Mark Ryan McNeilly in 1999. Mark now gets assistance in the winemaking from the talented Mike MacMorran (of Manu Propria and Force Majeure), and the wines have overall classical profiles, with bright acidity and tannin, that never lack for fruit or depth. If you haven’t tried these wines, now is great time to check them out.”

USA-CALIFORNIA
Failla Chardonnay Estate Fort Ross-Seaview 2012 ($47.95) $39 special
Antonio Galloni 94 points “One of the standouts in this range, the 2012 Chardonnay Estate Vineyard is endowed with striking minerality and energy to match the pure depth of the fruit. This is a distinctly broad, yet implosive Chardonnay typical of the coast that needs time for the flavors to fully flesh out.
Failla’s Estate vineyard is planted with a combination of Hyde, Wente and Mount Eden clones.”

Failla Chardonnay Hudson 2012 ($59.95) $41.90 special
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2012 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard, from one of the great sites in Napa Valley, is also one of the most classic California Chardonnays in this range. Lemon peel, pastry, flowers and sweet spices meld together in a textured, inviting Chardonnay built on texture. A wine of stunning balance and pure voluptuousness, the 2012 boasts fabulous balance and tons of personality. This is pure Hudson, not to mention a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. After many years juggling duties at both Turley and Failla, Ehren Jordan is now focused solely on his estate, but he still makes a dizzying array of wines. These Chardonnays and Pinots are essays into many of the truly great terroirs of Napa Valley, Sonoma and Mendocino. Personally I tend to gravitate towards the Sonoma Coast wines in this range, but there are plenty of fabulous wines from which to choose here. All of the 2012s were in bottle at the time of my tastings, in January 2014.”

Failla Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 ($59.95) $49 special
Antonio Galloni 94 points “An addition to the range, Failla’s 2012 Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard, is fabulous. Dark red stone fruit, smoke tobacco and licorice jump from the glass in a vivid, structured Pinot endowed with stunning depth and nuance. The balance of fruit and minerality is simply compelling. Winemakers continue to be attracted to Savoy, Cliff Lede’s vineyard in Anderson Valley. Few have made such a gorgeous wine on their first try. This is a great start from Failla. After many years juggling duties at both Turley and Failla, Ehren Jordan is now focused solely on his estate, but he still makes a dizzying array of wines. These Chardonnays and Pinots are essays into many of the truly great terroirs of Napa Valley, Sonoma and Mendocino. Personally I tend to gravitate towards the Sonoma Coast wines in this range, but there are plenty of fabulous wines from which to choose here. All of the 2012s were in bottle at the time of my tastings, in January 2014.”

Bebame El Dorado Rose 2013 ($19.95) $16 special
Cabernet Franc / Gamay Noir

Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet 2006 1.5L ($249.95) $219 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is big, dark and juicy. There is an element of wildness that runs through the wine. Graphite, licorice, tar and smoke are just some of the nuances that add complexity. The 2006 boasts superb purity from start to finish. Elements of fleshiness give the impression the 2006 might drink well relatively early, until the massive tannins set in. Floral notes add freshness on the finish. This is another fabulous wine from Randy Dunn. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036.”

Diamond Creek Red Rock Cabernet 2011 ($199.95) $159 special
Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Cabernet 2011 ($199.95) $159 special

FRANCE-BURGUNDY
Faiveley Chablis Les Preuses 2011 ($69.95) $59 special, 10 bottles available
Burghound 91 points “This offers markedly better complexity on the cool and pure aromas of iodine, tidal pool and white orchard fruit. There is fine intensity to the attractively mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that are at once succulent yet precise, all wrapped in a harmonious and beautifully lingering finish.”

Faiveley Chablis Les Clos 2011 ($79.95) $66 special, 16 bottles available
Burghound 92 points “A classic Les Clos nose of oyster shell, white flowers and wet stone leads to intensely mineral-inflected and broad-shouldered flavors that display cuts-like-a-knife delineation before culminating in a clean and very dry finish. There is a note of petrol to the finish that adds to the unmistakable Chablis character.”

Faiveley Gevrey La Combe Aux Moines 2011($69.95) $59 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89-92 points “Bright medium red.  Lively aromas of redcurrant, red cherry and pepper, plus a whiff of game.  Shows strong graphite and pepper notes in the mouth, but the wine’s fruit is currently suppressed by sulfur.  Finishes saline, dense and chewy, with more obvious tannins than the Chambolle cuvees.  This needs the sweetening influence of a racking.”

Faiveley Latricieres Chambertin 2011 ($179.95) $149 special
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “Good full medium red.  High-pitched aromas of raspberry, crushed stone, white pepper, blood orange and flowers.  Tight today and folded in on itself, with some excess CO2 currently suppressing the mid-palate fruit.  Fairly tough tannins cut off the wine’s finishing flavors, but the intensity and precision of this grand cru suggest that it will reward seven or eight years of cellaring.” ST

Faiveley Nuits St Georges Les Porets St-Georges 2011($69.95) $59 special, 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Good bright, dark red.  Pure aromas of rose petal and exotic Middle Eastern spices.  Juicy and on the cool side, showing a distinctly incisive character and excellent lift to the perfumed red berry and mineral flavors.  Still quite tightly wound and restrained.  The impression of tactile minerality carries through to the aromatic, long finish.”

Faiveley Nuits St Georges Les Pruliers 2011 ($69.95) $59 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points “Bright medium red.  Pungent flinty minerality and smoke on the nose.  Very sweet, lightly saline redcurrant and raspberry flavors show modest complexity and definition.  Finishes with slightly tough tannins and a touch of dryness.  Needs following.  This vineyard is part of Faiveley’s large contract to purchase all of Domaine Zibetti’s fruit:  2011 was the first vintage.”

Faiveley Nuits St Georges Aux Chaignots 2011($69.95) $59 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright medium red.  Pungent, high-pitched scents of raspberry, blood orange and menthol, plus a touch of new oak.  Subtly intense red berry flavors are accented by pepper and herbs.  Round in the middle but tangy and precise too.  Finishes with good juicy cut and length.”

Faiveley Nuits St Georges Les Damodes 2011($69.95) $59 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-94 points “(50% new oak; no whole clusters):  Good bright, deep red.  Soil-driven aromas and flavors of red berries, caraway seed, mocha, chocolate and spices, lifted by a floral topnote.  Tactile and intense, with strong saline minerality contributing to the impression of energy and precision.  Finishes with suave, fine-grained tannins and excellent lift.”

Faiveley Volnay Fremiets 2011 ($69.95)$59 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89-92 points “(this and the following wines were still in barrel in November; this vineyard was picked first in 2011, along with the Beaune Clos de L’Ecu):  Bright red.  Pungent red fruits and orange peel on the lively nose.  Reticent and rather tight in the mouth, but with a suave grain and lovely lift to the red fruit flavors.  Quite closed in the early going.”

Faiveley Pommard Rugiens 2011 ($89.95) $79 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-94 points “Good bright, full red.  Medicinal red cherry, rose petal and licorice on the pure but reticent nose.  Deep, sappy and spicy in the mouth, displaying excellent lift for the vintage.  Finishes with terrific saline breadth and suave tannins.  This very rich and sophisticated Rugiens will need time in bottle.”

Faiveley Echezeaux 2011($149.95) $139 special, 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “Good bright, medium red.  Red cherry, redcurrant, smoke and white pepper on the nose, complemented by mellow oak tones.  Rich, dense and silky, with a dominant flavor of sweet raspberry.  Really opens out on the back half, then grips the palate on the very long finish, which features a note of bitter orange zest.  This wine began with the lowest potential alcohol of all of Faiveley’s grand cru holdings in 2011 (it was 11.8%, chaptalized to 12.6%), and will rely as much on its acidity as on its tannins for aging.”

Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Clos Issarts 2011 ($69.95) $59 special, 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Precise aromas of raspberry and crushed rock.  Sweet, silky and deep, with crushed raspberry and mineral flavors complicated by smoke and game nuances.  Boasts superb thickness and palate presence without any heaviness.  Finishes with lovely lift and a whiplash of red fruits, smoke and minerals.  Faiveley is no longer farming these vines organically, and adviser Bernard Hervet notes that this wine now shows less reduction and early grapefruit character.”

FRANCE-PROVENCE
Peyrassol Commanderie De Peyrassol Rose 2013 ($24.95) $21.90 special

SPAIN
Ameztoi Txakolina Rubentis Rosado 2013 ($21.90) $18 special

Produttori Del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2012 ($19.95) $16 specialeProduttori Del Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2009 ($69.95) $59 speciale
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2009 Barbaresco Riserva Asili blossoms on the palate with lovely depth and richness. The fine Asili tannins are there, as the fruit shows its depth and roundness. The style is soft, supple and generous. The suave Asili personality comes through, but the pure excitement of the best vintages proves to be elusive. A generous, caressing finish rounds things out nicely.”Produttori Del Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2009 ($59.95) $49 speciale
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2009 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano brings together the best qualities of the vintage, with a solid core of intense fruit, expressive aromatics and a measure of tannic heft that will keep the wine fresh and vibrant for many years. Dark cherry, plum, spice and leather notes flesh out on the huge, voluptuous finish. In 2009, the Montestefano is fabulous.”

Produttori Del Barbaresco Muncagota Riserva 2009 ($59.95) $47 speciale
Antonio Galloni 93 points “One of the more beautiful and complete wines in the range, 2009 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota impresses for its balance of aromatics, fruit and structure. Dark red cherry and plum notes flesh out in a juicy, expressive Barbaresco backed up by plenty of tannin and enough acidity to drink well for a number of years. Here it is the wine’s harmony that is most impressive. I imagine the Muncagota will offer a wide window of rewarding drinking.”Produttori Del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva 2009 ($59.95) $47 speciale
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2009 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is one of the more detailed, vibrant wines in this range. Sweet dark red cherries, mint, pine, graphite and crushed flowers all take shape in the glass. The typical high-toned Ovello bouquet, slightly firm tannins and energy are all there, making this one of the more site-specific of the 2009 Riservas. In 2009, the Ovello is a bit more accessible than it usually is, even if I don’t quite find the visceral thrill of the very best years.”

Produttori Del Barbaresco Pora Riserva 2009 ($59.95) $44 speciale
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Firm tannins provide the backbone for the 2009 Barbaresco Riserva Pora. Bigger and richer on the palate than it often is, the 2009 Pora is also quite beautiful in this vintage. Sweet floral and mint notes wrap around the palate in this impeccable, beautifully balanced, mid-weight Barbaresco from the Produttori. The 2009 impresses for its pliancy and generosity. Today, the tannins are a bit four-squared, but there is enough depth in the fruit to make me think the wine will come together a little more fully with more time in bottle.”

Produttori Del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva 2009 ($69.95) $59 speciale
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “Dark cherries, menthol, cloves, cinnamon and leather wrap around the palate in the 2009 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà. A rich, layered, enveloping wine, the Rabajà is a wine that shows plenty of character and personality. Deep, implosive and full of personality, the Rabajà is another wine that delivers tons of character, class and personality.”

Produttori Del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva 2009 ($59.95) $44 speciale
Antonio Galloni 91+ points “Dark red cherries, tobacco, menthol, licorice and mint waft from the glass in the 2009 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo. This is an unusually dark, powerful Rio Sordo (within the context of the vintage) with fewer of the open, floral qualities that are the hallmark of this site. Today, the Rio Sordo is quite powerful and intense. It will be interesting to see if the finesse of this site develops with time.”

Jérôme Prévost inherited his family’s 2ha vineyard in Gueux at the age of 21 in 1987 and first sold his grapes to the local cooperative. Eleven years later, he started to produce his own wine in 1998, thanks to the invaluable help given him by the great Avize grower, Anselme Selosse, who made space for Jérôme in his winery for his first three vintages. Prevost now produces two Extra Brut Champagnes (a white and tiny amount of rosé) from old Pinot Meunier vines planted in the 1960s. He aerates the soil by plough and applies biodynamic preparations to the plants. La Closerie is always a wine of a single year, fermented in oak, mainly barriques where it ages on indigenous yeasts in cask.

 ~~~~~~~~~~Pre-Arrival- Elio Grasso Barolo 2010 – ETA May 2014
The Grasso estate

In 1979, Elio Grasso began bottling his wine under his own name.  He was influenced by the esteemed Barolo producer Aldo Conterno, a traditionalist who incorporated a touch of modernist style.  Today his son Gianluca has taken over the management of the estate, though Elio is still involved in operations. They own 45 acres of vineyard land with no designs to expand so the family can manage operations themselves.  Under Gianluca’s leadership, the estate tends towards an old school style but with a hint of modern, lush fruit.  All of the wines are single vineyard produced exclusively from estate grown fruit from their holdings in the Monforte commune.  Grapes are hand harvested and the wine is fermented in stainless steel.  The wines are all matured in the large, temperature-controlled cellar the family constructed into the side of a nearby mountain.From the Gavarini vineyard, considered one of Monforte’s premier vineyard sites, the estate produces the Gavarini Chiniera. The vineyard has clay and limestone soil with a high elevation resulting in rich and dense wines. Elio Grasso produces two different wines from this vineyard. The Gavarini Chiniera is from 30 year old vines and is matured in large Slovenian oak barrels before being bottle aged from 8-10 months. From the Ginestra vineyard, Grasso produces the Ginestra Casa Mate.  This high scoring wine is slightly lusher than other styles. It is selected from 40 year old vines and sees the same aging regiment as the Gavarini Chiniera.

Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 2010 ($119.95) $99 special, 3+ cases available
Antonio Galloni 98 points “The 2010 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is a wine of breathtaking purity and finesse. The year that comes to mind is 2008, but the 2010 has a more classic sense of structure, tannic cut and intensity. Bright red berries, crushed rocks, mint and dried flowers are some of the many notes that linger in the glass. Sweet floral notes begin to emerge over time but the 2010 is a reticent, austere wine built for the cellar. Razor-precise veins of acidity and minerality support the brilliant, crystalline finish. This is an especially thrilling Gavarini, but readers are going to have to be patient. The 2010 is a wine to buy and forget about for a decade, perhaps longer. Hints of the 1989 and its extraordinary perfume linger on the finish. Gianluca Grasso adds that for the first time in 2010 he had the courage to pick this fruit a few days later than normal…”

Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate 2010 ($119.95) $99 special, 3+ cases available
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Dark red cherries, plums, smoke, tar, menthol and licorice all take shape in the 2010 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Matè. Today the 2010 is painfully young and less expressive than the Gavarini, but equally promising. A generous, resonant wine, the 2010 blossoms in all directions with seemingly endless layers of dark, balsamic-inflected fruit. Today, the Casa Matè is closed and shut down, but it has all the qualities to develop into a spectacular Barolo. The future is bright, especially for readers who can be patient.”

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USA
Hanna Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($17.95) $11.90 special final 4 bottles available
Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma 2012 ($21.95) $18 special 24+ bottles available

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Staff Picks

René-Henri Coutier Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru NV ($39.95) $33 special, 27 bottles available
The Coutier family was the first to grow Chardonnay vines in the slightly warmer Ambonnay region of Champagne, and the results are a elegant combination of structure and bright acidity.  This Blanc de Blancs expresses notes of lemon zest and smoke.  It is dry, crisp and rich in body without being yeasty or toasty.  An excellent value, especially for a Grand Cru!
–Suzy

COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 2009 ($31.95) $26 special, 26 bottles available
A classic Sicilian blend of Frappato and Nero D’Avola. Plush body with notes of dried cherry and smoked herbs, this wine has insensity while maintaining a fresh balance. The perfect compliment to a sunny picnic and a cheese board.
-Afton

 

Penfolds Bin 620 Cabernet / Shiraz Coonawarra 2008 ($1199.95) $999 special
The Wine Advocate 98+ points “Very deep garnet-purple colored, the 2008 Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz (a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and 49% Shiraz) is a little restrained on the nose, presenting earthy, black truffle, moss covered bark and loam aromas over gentle notes of cassis, crushed blackberries, chocolate mint and pencil shavings, plus a fragrant whiff of cloves. Medium to full bodied, very ripe and rich in the mouth, the complex, layered fruit is densely packed and well supported by firm, finely grained tannins and very crisp acid. The finish is very long with a subtle hint of mint interspersed with warm berries, vanilla and baking spices. Consider drinking it 2015 to 2025+. Only about 900 cases were made of this wine.”