In This Newsletter:
New Arrivals
Chateau Virgile, Mas de Valeriole, Wasenhaus, Nikolaihof, and more!
Staff Pick
‘X’ Marks the Spot
Wineries We Love
The Suns never set on Grant and Renee
New Arrivals
Germany
Wasenhaus
The Garagistes hard at work
Alex Götze and Christoph Wolber met while travelling in Beaune, bonding over their love of Pinot Noir (Spatsburgunder in Germany). Over many glasses of red Burgundy, they concocted a plan: buy up the worst vineyards in Wolber’s home town of Baden that no one in their right mind would farm. Maybe it doesn’t sound like a smart plan, but their faith was rewarded: by planting Pinot Noir in Baden’s worst vineyards, they have managed to stress the grapes properly, as their favorite .
Respected importer of German and Austrian wines, Vom Boden has said these Wasenhaus represent only their second “Wow” moment the Deutschland Pinot scene, describing the wines as “ultra-fine, with a textural elegance that is second to none.”
These are a must for fans of Burgundy, Oregon, and Germany!
Weingut Wasenhaus Spatburgunder Mohlin, Baden, Germany 2022 750ml $119 special, 3 bottles available
Importer Notes “The Wasenhaus Möhlin is grown from a very shallow and poor limestone clay parcel of the Ehrenstetter Ölberg, positioned below the Kanzel with a more southeastern exposure. Thus the site is quite a bit hotter and more exposed to the sun than the Kanzel; the wine is among the most powerful, most lavish and expansive of the Wasenhaus Pinot Noirs. Perhaps this is the most complete of the Pinots?”
Weingut Wasenhaus Spatburgunder, Baden, Germany 2022 750ml $49 special, 6 bottles available
Importer Notes “This is Wasenhaus’ entry level Pinot Noir; it is the gateway drug of this estate, cut from the same cloth as the top Grand Crus (unlike the “Grande Ordinaire, which is a much more free-form, bright and “natural” treatise on Pinot Noir from the region).”
Weingut Wasenhaus Kalk, Baden, Germany 2022 750ml $69 special, 3 bottles available
Importer Notes “The geography and village names of Baden are likely somewhat foreign, so to simplify things we can say that Kalk largely comes from one new parcel in the town of Ebringen, about ten minutes north of Wasenhaus. Yet the name, which translates to chalk, says what’s really important: the soil. I loved the wine; it has some of the character of Bellen (Bellen is also limestone soils and a bit of grapes from Bellen went in here), yet perhaps it’s more bouncy. Let’s see.”
Weingut Weiser-Kunstler
“These are consistently among the top wines produced anywhere in the Mosel, made from painstakingly strict selections from prime steep vineyards planted with old un-grafted vines. Yet prices remain moderate… Savvy readers should plunge on these wines.” -David Rayer & Jean Fish, Mosel Fine Wine Review
Weiser-Kunstler Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2023 750ml $44.50 special, 3 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines “The 2023er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit harvested at 85° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (56 g/l). It displays a quite smoky and herbal nose of licorice, aniseed, minty herbs, black tea, wet stone, flintstone, and plum. The wine shows more richness and ripeness on the palate, where some yellow and juicy fruits come into play. Yet this is well balanced by some herbal flavors, and the finish has more candied citrusy fruits and almond. This is a superb Kabinett which combines intensity and freshness.”
Weiser-Kunstler Trabener Gaispfad Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel, Germany 2023 750ml $36.50 special, 3 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines “The 2021er Ellergrub, as it is referred to on the consumer label (the reference to Grosse Eule is left for the back label), has a restrained yet beautiful nose of minty herbs, thyme, yellow flowers, smoke, lozenge, spices, and blackberry. The wine proves slightly juicy and creamy on the midpalate, yet there is quite some energy coming through in the very long and intense finish. There is a touch of power as some phenolic presence is noticeable. This is an impressive and layered dry wine.”
Weiser-Kunstler Trarbacher Riesling Trocken, Mosel, Germany 2023 750ml $29 special, 6 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines “The 2023er Trarbacher Riesling Trocken is a bone-dry wine (less than 1 g/l of residual sugar) which comes from fruit harvested mainly in the Schlossberg, and a small part of the Taubenhaus. The first nose proves quite smoky and slightly reductive, and gains from airing as it reveals delicate herbal notes of greengage, mint, smoke, tar, fine spices, almond, and lime. The wine proves delicately juicy and herbal on the palate and leaves a straight and very spicy feel in the racy finish. The aftertaste reveals a touch of creamy elements and tartness in need of integration. This racy, energetic, and salty bone-dry tasting Riesling needs a few years to fully develop its complexity.”
Weingut Vollenweider
Vollenweider is quite simply, among the greatest practitioners of Kabinett on planet earth, part of a very small and elite group including Julian Haart, Egon Müller, Keller, Weiser-Künstler and Willi Schaefer – the young Julian Ludes of Hermann Ludes may join the ranks soon enough, but right now these are my five. Try and buy as much of this as you can. –Vom Boden, Importer
Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2023 750ml $33 special, 6 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines “The Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett was harvested on old vines in the Jon sector of the vineyard and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It displays a most captivating and superbly complex nose of minty herbs, fine spices, vineyard peach, a delicate touch of almond cream, white and yellow flowers, and some bakery notes and residues from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine proves both light and intense on the focused and layered palate. There is a hint of cream and riper yellow fruits coming through, yet the finish is pure and vibrating. This is a great Kabinett in the making.”
France
Arnaud Lambert
Arnaud Lambert Clos de Midi Saumur Blanc 2022 750ml $23.50 special, 36+ bottles available
Yohan Castaing-Wine Advocate “Aromas of pear, herbs, white pepper and spices preface the 2022 Midi, a medium-bodied, satiny and pure wine that’s precise, tense and saline with a long, delicate finish. Crafted from vines planted in the commune of Brézé, on sandy, clay soils facing southeast, it was matured only in steel tanks.”
Arnaud Lambert ‘Breze’ Saumur Blanc Clos David, Loire, France 2020 750ml $41.90 special, 12 bottles available
Importer’s Note “The wine starts out aromatically expressing the magic that limestone seems to impart to its wines. Pure and striking fruits, like sweet lime, meyer lemon with lemon curd, exotic spice and flint dart out of the glass and into the nose. If you can manage to keep it in the glass for a couple of hours of slow observation and drinking, the wine will take you on a rollercoaster of highs that seem only to climber higher with every passing minute. Acidity? More than you can imagine but somehow it presents itself gently on the finish after a somewhat overwhelming initial attack from the first sip.”
Chateau Virgile
Chateau Virgile Costieres de Nimes Rouge, Rhone, France 2023 750ml $14 special, 36+ bottles available
Winery Note “Chateau Virgile’s vineyards, which sit at the edge of a plateau in deep gravel, produce dark, concentrated wines. This red blend does not spend any time in oak, and is lightly fined and filtered before bottling. The result is a lush, rich wine with intense black fruit aromas and hints of garrigue spice.”
Mas de Valeriole
Mas de Valeriole ‘Ve’ Rose, IGP Mediterranee, France 2023 750ml $14.50 special, 15 bottles available
Importer Note “‘Vé’a local Provençal expression meaning “Look at that!”– is a blend of 80% Caladoc (a crossing of Grenache and Malbec) and 20% Merlot and Syrah (2023 marks the first vintage a splash of Syrah is included), from soils of sand and loam, pressed directly without maceration. Clocking in at a modest 12.5% alcohol, it offers bright, salt-tinged flavors of raspberry and ripe citrus fruits, with a sneakily long finish given its modest price.”
Gerard Bertrand
Gerard Bertrand ‘Chateau l’Hospitalet Grand Vin’ La Clape Blanc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2019 750ml $29 special, 12 bottles available
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 92 Points “A certified organic and biodynamic blend of Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Vermentino and Viognier, the 2019 La Clape Blanc Chateau l’Hospitalet Grand Vin is barrel-fermented and aged through the spring equinox, then bottled. The oak here is subtle, lending just a hint of pencil shavings to the citrus, melon and apricot notes. Full-bodied yet vibrant and refreshing, this is a big but beautiful white wine that finishes with ample length and zesty acidity.”
Gerard Bertrand ‘Chateau l’Hospitalet Grand Vin’ La Clape, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2020 750ml $29 special, 14 bottles available
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 93 Points “A certified organic and biodynamic blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, the 2018 La Clape Chateau L’Hospitalet Grand Vin delivers glorious aromas of garrigue, blackberries and black olives on the nose. It’s full-bodied and concentrated, with creamy-velvety tannins that effortlessly support the mass of fruit, and boasts a lingering finish spiced with salted licorice. It’s a terrific effort for drinking over the next 10 years or so.”
Spain
Caves Nadal Reserva Brut Corpinnat, Penedes, Spain NV 750ml $24 special, 12 bottles available
Winery Notes “A blend of 2015, 2016, and 2017. 47% Parellada, 27% Xarel-lo, 26% Macabeo. Aged 36 months. Aromas of white tree fruits, with subtle background of nuts. It is delicate, fresh and structured. 12 % alcohol.”
Caves Nadal Gran Reserva Especial Brut Nature Corpinnat, Penedes, Spain 2016 750ml $27.50 special, 12 bottles available
Winery Notes “57% Parellada, 43% Macabeo. Aged 72 months on the lees. Light gold colour. fresh aroma with notes of white fruits and nuts. Excellent structure and softness on the palate. Subtle and balanced with elegant notes of ageing.”
Austria
Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling, Wachau, Austria 1997 1.5L $569 special, 1 bottle available
Stuart Pigott (Suckling) 98 Points “Welcome to the wine time machine! Although there are deep, mature aromas that range from an old library to quince paste and beeswax, after a little aeration some remarkably fresh citrus character emerges. Great concentration and restrained power on the wonderfully harmonious palate. Very long, bone-dry finish. Bottled in early 2022 after 25 years maturing in a large barrel of neutral oak. The barrel name, Fass Severin, is on the label. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification.”
Staff Pick
‘X’ marks the spot
Peter Lauer ‘Barrel X’ Saar Riesling, Mosel, Germany 2023 750ml $21.90 special, 17 bottles available
Tracy “This is one of the staff’s most celebrated arrivals every year. The price/quality ratio just cannot be beat and it remains the perfect wine to serve your Riesling skeptical friends. Just a touch off-dry, this wine has a juicy core of ripe melon flavor, buoyed by playful pokes of citrus pucker, and a firm handshake of stony-salty minerality that keeps this a respectable affair. I like this paired with everything from Tacos to Szechuan and if it started coming out of the taps at my house I would not complain.”
Wineries We Love
Hundred Suns
“If you’ve not had Hundred Suns before, I suggest you make that a priority, as Grant Coulter and Renée Saint-Amour’s wines are some of the most exciting in Oregon and they are still fantastic values, especially their Willamette Valley series of offerings, but then again you don’t want to miss their outstanding single vineyard wines either.” – Kerry Winslow, Grape Live
Winemaker’s Note “The Carson Phillips Vineyard is planted in the north western part of the Dundee Hills. It’s a southeast exposure but is blocked a little to the east so somewhat cooler. Classic Jory soils and planted in 2000 so it’s got some years on it. Deep red fruits, raspberries and strawberries. Very delicious.”
Hundred Suns Carson Phillips Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, USA 2022 750ml $56.50 special, just 1 bottle available
Jeremy Young-International Wine Report 97 Points “With a glimmering ruby-blue core with a light pink rim, the tantalizing 2022 Carson Phillips Vineyard Pinot Noir from Hundred Suns rested in French oak barrels for 11 months. Broad and expansive across the palate, it boasts notes of Bing cherries, crushed ripe red raspberries, white tea, freshly cut roses, and subtle spice notes of grated cardamon pods. I kept coming back to this wine over the course of an hour, and it kept getting better and better with time. Tannins are a bit grippy but with a few years of bottle age, it’s going to be perfect. A small production of 154 cases was crafted. Highly recommended and editor’s choice.”
Winery Note “The Sequitur vineyard was planted in 2012-2013 by Mike Etzel and Carey Critchlow in the Ribbon Ridge AVA. Eons of tectonic movement has lifted the ancient seabeds to where they lie today at 450 feet above sea level. A diverse mixture of Pinot Noir planted on these marine sedimentary soils weathered a cold spring that led into a warm summer and gorgeous fall.”
Hundred Suns Carson Phillips Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, USA 2022 750ml $61.90 special, 9 bottles available
Jeremy Young-International Wine Report 96 Points “Sporting a glistening medium to dark ruby core and a neon pink rim in the glass, and saw 35% whole cluster used during fermentation and then aged for 11 months in French oak. It’s a richer and more serious Pinot Noir from Hundred Suns that gifts notes of boysenberry, blue plum skin, hoisin sauce, Asian spices, tilled earth, and black tea. Well-balanced, with no rough edges, it seems nothing is out of place in this Pinot. I loved the blue and black fruit finish and the peppery note you get on the front palate. Highly recommended.”
Winery Note “The Eola-Amity Hills, where this collection of dry farmed vineyards grows, is comprised of soils formed by ancient volcanic rock. A cool spring slowed maturity and pushed us deep into October for a true fall harvest.”
Hundred Suns Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, USA 2022 750ml $41.90 special, 14 bottles available
Jeremy Young-International Wine Report 95 Points “The 2022 Eola-Amity Pinot Noir from Hundred Suns saw 11 months in neutral French oak barrels and was fermented with a combination of destemmed fruit, partial whole cluster, and whole cluster. Gifting a light to medium ruby core with a neon blue rim, the juicy core of mountain wild blueberries, sliced rhubarb, milk chocolate, sweet cloves, and black tea is everything you want from a bottle of Pinot Noir. Grippy tannins and racy acidity create a finish that goes on and on.”