Vinopolis Newsletter 9-9-24 PM

 

 
Washington
 

 

Nestled into the sun-drenched southwest slopes of Red Mountain, Klipsun is a legendary vineyard renowned for producing some of Washington State’s most sought-after wines. With Red Mountain’s unique terroir, coupled with Klipsun’s meticulous cultivation builds grapes that are coveted by such esteemed wineries as Quilceda Creek, DeLille, and Canvasback. Hailed as one of Wine & Spirits Magazine’s Top 25 Vineyards Worldwide, Klipsun is Washington State’s gold standard for Bordeaux varietals, delivering age-worthy wines of extraordinary precision and complexity with every vintage.

This traditional West Coast “Meritage” blend represents a high-note for Doug Fletcher, the long-time head enologist for Napa’s Terlato Family Vineyards.
 
Klipsun Vineyard Red Wine, Red Mountain, USA 2020 750ml $41.90 special, 24 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 Points “The 2020 Red Blend, made from a blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 16% Syrah, is a dusty, bright, succulently complex wine. It presents full-bodied, balanced characteristics with velvety tannins and food-friendly acidity, ensuring the wine’s longevity beyond its 12th birthday. It offers a delightful explosion of ripe red and blue fruit aromas and flavors. Although I’ve never sat down with winemaker Doug Fletcher to ask him about Klipsun’s oak regimen, which claims to use 100% French oak—I am positive there is some American oak in their cellar–nevertheless, this red blend is delicious and will improve with age. About 20% new oak was used. 21,000 bottles were produced.”

Lowest listed price in the USA

 

 
 
France
 

 

“The terms ‘old school’ and ‘traditional’ are tossed around in many appellations (The Rhone, Barolo, etc), but less so these days in Burgundy. Sure, there are Old School producers in Burgundy, like Michel Gaunoux in Pommard or the old Domaine Maume in Gevrey Chambertin, whose deep, ambrosial wines are some of Burgundy’s finest candidates for extended cellaring. These wines are built for the long haul, and they have an amazing track record for blossoming after 10-15+ years of aging.” –Polaner Selections, Importer
 
Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Chambolle-Musigny, Cote de Nuits, France 2020 750ml $99 special, 2 bottles available
Vinopolnote “Hard to find, easy to enjoy.”
 
Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 2020 750ml $299 special, 2 bottles available
Vinopolnote “Hard to find. Best in your cellar until 2028 and beyond.”
 
Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Les Suchots, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, France 2020 750ml $219 special, 3 bottles available
Vinopolnote “Best in your cellar until 2026 and beyond.”
 
 
Italy
 

 

 Staff Pick!  Luigi Baudana ‘Dragon’ Langhe Bianco, Piedmont, Italy 2022 750ml $19 special, 24 bottles available
Winery Note “Dragon is a unique white blend from the Langhe. Originally produced by Luigi Baudana during the 1980s with Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc, it has evolved to embrace Nascetta, the most exciting white heirloom varietal of the Langhe, and a tiny amount of Riesling. The original vineyard was located in Cerretta Piani in Serralunga d’Alba. The Nascetta was instead planted in Comune di Novello, the very place of origin of this grape, at the top of the Ravera hill. Dragon opens to fresh fruit aromas such as kiwi, lime and pear. Hints of minerality like flint and sea stones complete the elegant bouquet. The palate is citrusy whit flavors of orchard fruit, macerated elder flower and candied orange peel that shine through the fresh and vibrant acidity.”

Lowest Listed Price on the West Coast

 

 
Benanti Etna Rosso, Sicily, Italy 2022 750ml $30.90 special, 12 bottles available
Eric Guido-Vinous 90 Points “The 2022 Etna Rosso wafts up with a perfumed blend of rosy florals and hints of juniper berry. This is vividly fruit-focused, with a wave of ripe wild berries and sweet spices that flow across a stream of brisk acidity. It leaves a staining of primary concentration and mildly grippy tannins to resonate as violet inner pleasure to taste and maintains fantastic balance.”
 

The best value in Barolo!
G.D. Vajra Albe, Barolo DOCG, Italy 2019 750ml $36 special, 36 bottles available
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 Points “You can’t beat this value. The G.D. Vajra 2020 Barolo Albe is buttoned up with fresh primary fruit, and the wine does not have that hint of over-ripeness that is found across this vintage. The fruit is dark and savory, and there is a big mineral component to match, but the bouquet is nicely redolent of dark currant, plum, granite and a raspy dry note that brings crushed shale to mind. The tannins are quite impactful, and they give this wine extra runway for moderate bottle aging.”
 
G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy 2021 750ml $18 special, 36 bottles available
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 90 Points “Made only in stainless steel, the 2021 Dolcetto d’Alba shows a purplish color with inky concentration. The bouquet is simple and direct with loads of sweet candied cherry, crème de cassis and bitter almond. This is another terrific take on one of Piedmont’s most versatile grapes.”
 
G.D. Vajra Freisa ‘Kye’ Langhe Rosso, Piedmont, Italy 2021 750ml $36 special, 36+ bottles available
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 92 Points “In the bottle with the light blue label, this is a blend of 70% Barbera and 30% Freisa. This is another terrific value wine from G.D. Vajra. The 2021 Piemonte Barbera Freisa reveals floral tones, crushed rose, wild fruit, spice and white pepper. This is the kind of super popular wine that sells out before I can write my review. The low sticker price makes this an irresistible deal.”
 
G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2022 750ml $21.90 special, 36+ bottles available
Winery Notes “The 2022 Langhe DOC Nebbiolo has a lively light garnet color. On the nose, it displays raspberry, red cherry and mountain wild berries, florals with violet and rose whiffles, a hint of lavender and mint all wrapped in an ethereal scent. On the palate, there is elegance, aromatic fragrance of crunchy red fruits, orange zest, chalky minerality and a lifted finish.”
 
 
Germany
 
What kind of German wine-maker apprentices in Burgundy at Leflaive before setting up his winery in the Mosel? Exactly the kind that Vom Boden has declared “to be in a completely new, uncharted place.” That’s an incredible compliment coming from the importer of such German legends as Peter Lauer, Emrich-Shonleber, and Keller. In fact they go on to describe the sensation of first drinking the wines of the young Jonas Dostert as reminiscent of first drinking Raveneau or Falkenstein, such is their power.
 
Jonas Dostert Elbling Cremant Brut Nature, Mosel, Germany NV 750ml $36 special, 3 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines “The N.V. Elbling Crémant was made from grapes harvested in 2018 harvested on 40-year-old vines and was fermented and aged in 228-liter used oak barrels until April 2019 before being bottled, aged on its lees, and then disgorged without dosage in January 2024 (the disgorgement date is written on the label) with little SO2 added (20 mg/l). It has a very light silvery-yellow color, and the first nose clearly shows freshness and youth, with even a touch of green elements (apple, greengage, menthol), anise, lime tree, cassis, iodine, and dill. The palate is taut and precise, with zest and spice. There is a light side, yet remarkable density and energy. The finish is more aromatic, with fine notes of almond and apple, enveloped by plenty of spices and a fresh, razor-sharp, and tart after-taste. This Sekt is impressive in its energy and tension and will please lovers of racy wines.”

Lowest listed price in the USA

 

 
Julian Haart ‘J.J.’ Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2023 750ml $28 special, 24 bottles available
Vom Boden-Importer “This is sourced from vines in the Grand Cru Goldtröpfchen vineyard as well as Falkenberg which is located just above on the same slope. J.J. is both a nod to Julian’s son “Johann Josef” (also the name of his Grandfather and Great-Grandfather!) as well as a homage to the house style of J.J. Prüm, of which this ultra-light style Kabinett is reminiscent of. With 46g of RS this has an elegant interplay of sweetness and acidity, the push and pull of oppulance and tension.”
 
Julian Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2023 750ml $69 special, 3 bottles available
James Piggott-JamesSuckling.com 96 Points “This very youthful dry Mosel riesling is a deep well of yellow, black and pink fruit aromas plus an entire dimension of green herb notes, Very pure and straight on the medium-bodied palate for a top site that easily tends in the baroque direction. This is bristling with energy and slatey acidity on the compact and racy palate. Long and bold finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.”

Julian Haart ‘Moselle’ Riesling, Mosel, Germany 2023 750ml $31.90 special, 6 bottles available
James Piggott-JamesSuckling.com 93 Points “This may be an entry-level wine, but it shows terrific tension between juicy white fruit aromas and salty minerality. Barely medium-bodied, but with ample substance and a bold, stony finish.

 
Wineries We Love
 
 
Weingut Kunstler
 

 

 

Much like “Claret” became a catch-all term for Bordeaux, the Rieslings from the Hochheim village of the Rheingau were so beloved by English speaking foreigners that “Hock” became shorthand for any and all Rhine Rieslings among English and American wine drinkers for centuries.
 
Bottom Line, these are some of the most memorable wines to be found in Germany at incredible prices:
 
Kunstler Hochheimer Holle Riesling im Neuenberg 2020 750ml $33 special, 36+ bottles available
Stuart Pigott (Suckling) 95 Points “Enormous concentration and power for just 12.5% alcohol, the ripe peach, apricot and mirabelle aromas still restrained. Then comes the full-bodied, densely packed palate that is still so clean. So much depth at the spectacular, wide-screen finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold. Screw cap.”
 
Kunstler Holle GG Riesling Rheingau 2020 750ml $59 special, 36+ bottles available
Stuart Pigott (Suckling) 98 Points “The deep, peach and apricot nose leads you into this enormously concentrated yet graceful dry riesling that’s got the stature to stand next to almost any Grand Cru white Burgundy. Enormously long, beautifully balanced finish that pulls your hand magnetically back to the glass. Drink or hold.”
 
Kunstler Kirchenstuck GG Riesling Rheingau 2020 750ml $59 special, 36+ bottles available
Stuart Pigott (Suckling) 96 Points “Very complex nose of white chocolate, white peaches and fresh herbs. Sleek and very finely delineated, this is a super-elegant dry Rheingau riesling with a long, cool finish that ripples with notes of fennel and parsley. Drink or hold.”
 
Kunstler Weiss Erd GG Riesling Rheingau 2020 750ml $49 special, 36+ bottles available
Stuart Pigott (Suckling) 97 Points “A masterpiece from an almost unknown vineyard site. The cool and deep nose pulls you into this very concentrated and supple dry riesling GG that has so much power, packed into a sleek silhouette. Long, silky and chalky finish. Drink or hold.”