Weekend Vinopolpick- September 14th

September 14, 2013
Produttori del Barbaresco’s finest: 
 
  
The 9 single cru Riserva bottlings

 
 
In 1894, Domizio Cavazza, headmaster of the Royal Enological School of Alba and a Barbaresco resident, created the area’s first winemaking cooperative, the “Cantine Sociali”. Gathering together nine Barbaresco vineyard owners to make wine in a local castle, this was the first time the winemaking district of “Barbaresco” was recognized on a label. The Cantine Sociali was forced to close in the 1920’s, but in 1958 the priest of the village of Barbaresco recognized the necessity of an alliance in order for these small properties to survive. With that, Produttori del Barbaresco was born. Even today, many of Barbaresco’s best growers are members, occupying the greatest sites and pooling their fruit.  Produttori del Barbaresco has become known for their commitment to quality and their transparent winemaking, producing riservas that are a rare chance to taste the true terroir of each vineyard site. Every vintage, the winery produces a blend of Nebbiolo grapes from each vineyard, their Barbaresco DOCG. In great vintages, and only then, are the nine single-vineyard Barbarescos produced from the classic premium sites within the Barbaresco village boundaries: Pora, Asili, Ovello, Montefico, Montestefano, Pajé, Muncagota, Rabaja, and Rio Sordo.
 
 
 
The history of Vinopolis Wine Shop is whole lot shorter and less romanced than that of the Produttori. But over those years, we have held a particular fascination with their wines, and the notable role of their Director, Aldo Vacca. And that fascination has evolved into what we believe to be the broadest and deepest retail cellar of Produttori Riserva wines in the USA today. Today, for the first time, we decided to put it fully on display. We’ll present them to you in what amounts to clusters of geographic juxtaposition. Enjoy…
 
 

 

Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva 2004 ($59.95) $47 special 3+ cases available
Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2004 Pora is a dense, chewy offering loaded with ripe red cherries, licorice, tar and sweet wild herbs. The wine’s sheer concentration and power are impressive but today the tannins seem to lack the extra level of elegance that characterizes the best wines in this vintage. Despite its slightly rustic personality, this medium to full bodied wine delivers plenty of drinking pleasure in an intense style. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024.”
 
Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva 2005 ($59.95) $49 special 20 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92+ points & Wine Spectator 92 points “The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is wonderfully layered in its dark cherries, spices, menthol, licorice and minerals. The medium-bodied Pora is one of the firmer and more linear Riservas in 2005. Still, it shows exceptional balance in a powerful style that will require a measure of patience. Here, too, the finish is wonderfully elegant”
 
Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva 2007 ($59.95) $49 special 24 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points
 “The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is the revelation among the 2007s. Pora is one of the warmer microclimates in Barbaresco owing to its proximity to the Tanaro River. In most vintages Pora is a fairly open wine. The 2007 captures the very best qualities of this site in a radiant, deep expression of fruit. The wine literally covers every inch of the palate as it fleshes out in the glass. The Pora will never be one of the most complex wines here, but today it is immensely enjoyable, not to mention that the 2007 is one of the very finest Poras in recent memory. It will be great to drink young, but also appears to have the stuffing to age well for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva 2008 ($79.95) $59 special 30 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 95 points
 “Playing true to type, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is another of the more open wines in this vintage. But that is only in relative terms. Layers of expressive red fruit, crushed flowers and spices flesh out in this radiant Barbaresco. In most vintages the Pora is one of the more accessible of the Riservas when young. The close proximity of the vineyard to the Tanaro River results in a warm microclimate that ripens the fruit earlier than elsewhere. In 2008, though, the Pora packs a serious punch. The coolness of the late harvest comes through in a finish laced with considerable tension and minerality. This is easily one of the very best Poras I have ever tasted from the Produttori. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.” 

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2007 ($69.95) $59 special 26 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points 
“The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a huge wine. In some ways it reminds me of the 2004 because of its silkiness, but the 2007 is a richer wine with more weight, glycerin and body. Sweet cherries, flowers, hard candy and spices are woven together beautifully through to the plush, enveloping finish. Despite the power and richness there is plenty of Asili character in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. “

 
Produttori del Barbareso Asili Riserva 2008 ($79.95) $66 special 13 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96 points 
“One of the absolute highlights in this portfolio of utterly amazing wines, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Asili possesses marvelous depth and richness, but also little of the early approachability and sexiness of Asili. With time in the glass, the wine’s inner perfume gradually emerges, but ultimately this is a Barbaresco to bury in the deepest corner of the cellar. Once again, the Produttori have done a fabulous job with the Asili. The 2008 has nerves of steel and a huge, never-ending finish. It is by far the most imposing and structured Asili I have ever tasted from the Produttori. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva 2004 ($59.95) $49 special 8 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points
 “The 2004 Rio Sordo is one of the better versions of this wine I can remember. There is considerable depth and richness in the fruit here as this sweet, layered Barbaresco opens up in the glass. The typical spiced, floral Rio Sordo notes are amply present in the wine, but in 2004 there is an additional level of concentration and richness that has eluded previous vintages. This is beautiful Rio Sordo from the Produttori. Anticipated maturity 2010-2020.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva 2005 ($59.95) $49 special 15 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points
 “Chocolate and ripe plum aromas verge on overripe. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and lots of richness. This is a powerful young wine. Makes your mouth pucker. Best after 2012.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva 2007 ($59.95) $47 special 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points
 “The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is another of the strong wines in this vintage. Rio Sordo tends to yield wines that are soft and perfumed. Those qualities are very much present in the 2007, except that the vintage has added a little more fleshiness than is typically the case. An expressive, open bouquet redolent of crushed flowers, spices and red berries leads to soft fruit in this elegant, harmonious Barbaresco. This looks to be one of the earlier maturing of the 2007 Riservas. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027+.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva 2008 ($54.95) $41.90 special 30 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points
 “A picture perfect example of site, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is classic Rio Sordo. Medium in body, it possesses a sweet, open bouquet and a relatively medium-bodied personality next to the rest of the wines in this range. A long, pointed finish rounds things out nicely. Overall, the 2008 is a pretty, nuanced wine with lovely detail, precision and class, if not quite the visceral thrill of the very finest wines. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2038.”

 
 

 
 

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva 2005 ($79.95) $66 special 23 bottles available
Wine Spectator 95 points & Wine Advocate 94 points
 “The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja reveals gorgeous inner perfume in a powerful, structured style. This is a big, hulking Barbaresco, but its potential is evident, as the wine’s balance is impeccable. Still, readers will have to exercise considerable patience here. I have seldom been disappointed by older bottles of the Rabaja and expect the 2005 will turn out to be another fine vintage for this bottling as well.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva 2007 Magnum ($179.95) $149 special 7 bottles available
Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva 2007 750ml ($79.95) $69 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points 
“The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja is a big, dark wine loaded with dark fruit, menthol, tar, flowers, mint, rosemary and an array of balsamic notes that develop in the glass. The Rabaja possesses stunning depth to match its muscular tannins. It is a dazzling wine endowed with tons of inner perfume and sheer personality as it saturates the palate from start to finish. Today, the Rabaja comes across as huge and almost Barolo like, but it has plenty of Rabaja character. Purists will want to age the wine for a number of years to allow the baby fruit to drop off, but the truth is, it is pretty stunning even today. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva 2008 Magnum ($179.95) $149 special 15 bottles here now
Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja 2008 Riserva 750ml ($79.95) $66 special 3+ cases arriving Sept
Wine Advocate 96+ points
 “The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja is utterly magnificent in this vintage. Usually a powerhouse, the 2008 is incredibly refined to the point it seems to literally hover on the palate. It is a wine of exquisite grace and beauty. All the elements are in place. I could describe the aromas and flavors, but that would be doing this majestic Barbaresco a huge disservice. Ultimately, the 2008 Rabaja, is all about textural finesse and pure elegance. This is another breathtaking wine from the Produttori. A king among kings. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.”

 
 

   

 
 
Produttori del Barbaresco Paje Riserva 2005 ($59.95) $47 special 14 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91 points 
“The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Paje opens with a blast of tar, menthol and smoke that leads to dark cherries, plums, leather and licorice. This is an especially powerful, shut-down Barbaresco at this stage, but with time in bottle the layers should fill out quite nicely. Today it remains compact and in need of further time in bottle.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Paje Riserva 2007($59.95) $44 special 25 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points
 “The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Paje comes across as a bit simple in this vintage. It shows good fleshiness and lovely inner sweetness in a fairly approachable style. I don’t see the pedigree of the finest 2007 Riservas here. In exchange, though, readers will find a highly attractive, forward Barbaresco that will drink well right out of the gate. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Paje Riserva 2008($59.95) $49 special 26 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points 
“The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Paje wraps around the palate with layers of dark fruit, spices and menthol. Today, the Paje is one of the more open of the 2008 Riservas, but there is plenty going on in the glass. Sweet floral and spiced notes add lift on the finish. As good as the Paje is, it also tends to shut down quickly in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.” 

Produttori del Barbaresco Moccagatta Riserva 2004 ($69.96) $59 special 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points
 “The 2004 Moccagatta suffers only by virtue of being placed among this group of phenomenal wine; more producers would be delighted to have this as their top Barbaresco. As is often the case, the Moccagatta is a relatively accessible, forward wine, but like the Rio Sordo, it has an usual level of plumpness and inner sweetness that makes up for any complexity that may be missing. Sweet spices, plums, prunes and espresso are just some of the nuances to be found in this compelling wine. The Moccagatta should be one of the more accessible Riservas early on. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022.”


Produttori del Barbaresco Muncagota Riserva 2007 ($59.95) $44 special 26 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points
 “A whiff of tomato and vegetal aromas leads off, with notes of rose and plum. This is a big red, broad and rangy, settling into plum and cherry flavors that linger on the long, spicy finish. There’s a fine core of sweet fruit, and this changes a lot with air. Best from 2015 through 2028.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Muncagota Riserva 2008 ($59.95) $49 special 29 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points
 “The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is arguably the most open and expressive of the 2008 Riservas. It presents a gorgeous soft core of fruit to match an open personality. Although I wouldn’t suggest opening any of the 2008 Riservas for pleasure anytime soon, readers who want to get an early look at the wines should start with the Muncagota. Sweet rose petals add nuance to the vibrant fruit on the structured finish. This is a great showing from the Muncagota. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038.” 

 

 

Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico Riserva 2004 ($69.95) $59 special 7 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points
 “The 2004 Montefico is another of the larger-scaled wines in this lineup. It reveals a profile of ripe red fruits, spices and menthol wrapped into a seamless yet structured frame. This Barbaresco doesn’t quite have the level of profoundness of the finest wines in this vintage, but it comes awfully close. Shades of Bruno Giacosa’s 1971 Barbaresco Montefico linger on the long and immensely satisfying finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.”


Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico Riserva 2007 ($59.95) $47 special 30 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points
 “The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is all about energy and sheer power. The Montefico is quite virile, even in this vintage, with a certain austerity in the tannin that will require time in bottle to soften. Dark red fruit, leather, anise and spices are some of the notes that wrap around the insistent, pointed finish. There is plenty of nuance here, but not the early appeal of the year. This is a great showing, but readers will need to be patient. Anticipated maturity: 2017- 2029.”


Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico Riserva 2008 ($79.95) $59 special 21 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 95 points 
“The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico hits the palate with a blast of fruit intermingled with copious acidity and pure structure. Montefico shares a boundary with Ovello, and shows many of the structural elements typically associated with that side, but with more depth in its fruit, probably because of the southern exposure. The high altitude of these parcels ensures there is plenty of freshness and vibrancy. The Montefico is dazzling, but it will require considerable patience. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2048” 

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2004 ($69.96) $59 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points
 “The 2004 Montestefano is one of the more reticent wines in this lineup. Its vibrant, fresh color is followed by notes of violets, roses, black cherries, menthol, smoke and licorice. The wine possesses tons of structure and sheer muscle behind the fruit, suggesting this will be an especially long-lived Barbaresco. This superb Montestefano is hard to resist. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2007 Magnum ($129.95) $99 special 1 bottle available
Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2007 750ml ($59.95) $49 special 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points
 “The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is another fabulous wine. It is completely different than the Montefico, even though the vineyards are literally next to each other. The Montestefano shows quite a bit more fruit than the Montefico, with silky, polished tannins that convey an impression of sensual elegance. Crushed flowers, mint, licorice and dark red cherries are some of the notes that wrap around the deep finish. This is a fabulous Montestefano. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2032.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2008 Magnum ($139.95) $119 special 14 bottles available
Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2008 750ml ($79.95) $59 special 14 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 95+ points
 “The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is exquisite and harmonious from start to finish. Among the more structured 2008s, the Montestefano is the wine that most hides its tannin, as the fruit is intensely perfumed, rich and totally seductive. Today the Montestefano provides the illusion of being relatively accessible, but it is virtually certain to shut down in bottle. The 2008 boasts striking aromatics, seemingly endless layers of fruit and power to burn. Readers can think of the Montestefano as a synthesis of Montefico, Ovello and Rabaja. Not bad, to say the least. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva 2004 ($69.95) $59 special 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points
 “The 2004 Ovello is deep, dense and incredibly primary. Although the wine clearly possesses remarkable stuffing, there is very little tertiary development here. With air, suggestions of menthol, pine, spices and licorice gradually emerge, but this remains a wine in need of serious bottle age. Lingering notes of sweetness resonate on the long finish. This austere, but beautiful Barbaresco is destined to develop beautifully in the bottle and should offer glorious drinking down the road. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva 2007 Magnum ($139.95) $119 special 5 bottles available
Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva 2007 750ml ($69.95) $59 special 9 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points
 “The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello comes across as cool, inward and reticent. In other words, very Ovello. It is one of the most complete of these 2007s, as the freshness of the site works to counter some of the more extroverted qualities of the year. The Ovello possesses stunning depth in its fruit, expressive inner perfume and firm yet refined tannins that provide the backdrop for all of the elements to come together beautifully in the glass. The Ovello seems to combine the best qualities of the Montestefano and Montefico. The huge, building finish provides a glimpse as to what awaits those who can exercise a measure of patience. This is a stunning Barbaresco on all counts. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.”

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva 2008 Magnum ($139.95) $119 special 17 bottles available
Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva 2008 750ml ($69.95) $59 special 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95+ points
 “The Produttori’s 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a reference point wine for the village, even if, in truth, Ovello is a fairly diverse zone with many exposures. Firm, steely tannins support a core of expressive fruit in this vibrant, energetic Barbaresco. The 2008 is going to require considerable patience, but it is striking, even today. Sweet floral notes reappear on the vivid, utterly breathtaking finish, adding lift, precision and vibrancy. This is a stunning wine from the Produttori. The style is built on tension, energy and focus; in other words, all the qualities Ovello is known for. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.” 

 
 

Bargain Basement
Wines Arriving Friday Sept 20

 
Produttori del Barbaresco Nebbiolo Langhe 2011 ($17.95) $15.50 pre-arrival special 10 cases available
Classy Nebbi from the young vines of the Barbaresco vineyards
 
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco ‘Normale’ 2008 ($31.95) $27 pre-arrival special 10 cases available
Wine Advocate 91+ points
 “The Produttori’s 2008 Barbaresco is simply fabulous. A sweet bouquet melds into expressive fruit in a Barbaresco that is exceptionally polished and refined. The 2008 boasts striking sweetness and inner perfume to match its understated, elegant personality. Quite frankly, the 2008 is very hard to resist today, as the tannins are quite polished. Unusually sweet, silky and refined, the 2008 will take the better part of a decade to show the full breadth of its pedigree. At $37, it is one of the very finest values in ageworthy wine from anywhere in the world. This is a magnificent showing from the Produttori and a great introduction to the 2008 harvest at this historic house. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038.”