Sunday Night Newsletter 6-19-22

Foillard is one of the members of the “Gang of Four”, a group of young producers who catapulted Beaujolais onto the world stage with their incredible re-interpretation of traditional winemaking . Sourcing from organically farmed, old-vines with no intervention during fermentation and élevage these are among the most transparent expressions of Gamay Noir on the market. Irresistibly delicious on release, these are wines that reward the patient but won’t scold you for opening one now.  

Foillard Wines in stock now: 

Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Les Charmes Eponym Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($57.95) $46 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Glistening ruby. Powerful, mineral-accented cherry, black raspberry, violet and black cardamom scents pick up a spicy nuance as the wine opens up. Chewy and tightly wound on entry, offering juicy dark berry, bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors that deepen and slowly spread out through the back half. Shows firm tension and impressive energy on a very long, mineral-driven finish framed by polished, even tannins.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “Aromas of sweet red berries, plums and smoke introduce the 2019 Morgon Eponym, a medium to full-bodied, supple and charming wine that’s fine boned and elegant, with powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a perfumed finish. This is a pretty rendition of this cuvée derived from climat Les Charmes.”

Domaine Jean Foillard Fleurie Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Dark, bright-rimmed ruby. Incisive, spice-accented red and blue fruit and allspice scents show excellent clarity and pick up floral and smoky mineral flourishes with air. Juicy and alluringly sweet, offering vibrant black raspberry, boysenberry and five-spice powder flavors that deepen through the midpalate. Shows impressive energy and finishes seamless and impressively long, with discreet tannins and a strong echo of juicy red fruit.”

Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 26 bottles in stock now
Kermit Lynch note “This estate comprises nearly fourteen hectares. Foillard’s Morgons are deep, structured, and complex, with a velvety lushness that makes them irresistible when young despite their aging potential. Jean raises his wines in older barrels sourced from top estates in Burgundy, a logical decision for someone crafting Gamay in a Burgundian style. It is the passion and dedication of vignerons like this that have brought pride back to the crus of the Beaujolais.”

Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvee Corcelette Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Saturated magenta. Expressive aromas of red and dark fruit preserves, star anise and potpourri pick up a smoky mineral topnote with air. Juicy and energetic in the mouth, offering concentrated raspberry and cherry liqueur, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors supported by a core of smoky minerality. At once powerful and lithe, finishing on a gently tannic note with superb, floral- and mineral-driven tenacity.”

Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py Beaujolais 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 6 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points “Tasted at the domaine, Foillard’s 2017 Morgon Côte du Py is much the same as it showed from my cellar earlier this year. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, red berries, grilled meats, rose petals and orange rind, it’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, with fine and powdery tannins, lively acids and a ripe core of fruit. It’s a touch richer and more sun-kissed than the stunning 2016 rendition, but this is a very fine Côte de Py from Foillard.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Vivid ruby. A highly complex bouquet evokes ripe red/blue fruits, candied flowers and exotic spices, and a smoky mineral nuance builds as the wine opens up. Stains the palate with appealingly sweet black raspberry and cherry flavors that become livelier and spicier on the back half. Conveys an impressive blend of power and finesse and lingers with superb persistence on the finish, which features sneaky tannins and lingering florality.”
Neal Martin-Vinous 94 points “We finished with a 2017 Morgon Côte du Py from Jean Foillard, which showed up the Kiwi Pinot. The color was iridescent, the bouquet pure Gamay in full flight: copious blueberries, cassis, crushed violets and blood oranges, all delivered with superb delineation and brightness. The palate harnessed the vivacity and unpretentiousness of Gamay with fine tannins, pure, tart black and red fruit and veins of blueberry. There was a gentle but insistent grip on a finish of supreme length. An outstanding Beaujolais wine, but frankly, I expected nothing less from this producer.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py Beaujolais 2019 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special, 5 magnums in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 95 points “Deep, shimmering violet. Powerful, spice-tinged red and blue fruit preserve and floral pastille aromas are complemented by suggestions of musky earth and licorice. Alluringly sweet and seamless in the mouth, offering sappy, mineral-driven black raspberry, cherry liqueur, lavender and five-spice powder flavors that expand through the back half. Finishes extremely long and nervy, with harmonious tannins building steadily and adding solid grip to reverberating cherry and floral notes.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94+ points “The most reserved wine in the range is the 2019 Morgon Côte du Py, a terrific effort that unwinds in the glass with notes of sweet berry fruit, peonies, loamy soil and sweet spices. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with ultra-fine tannins and lively acids, it’s sapid and mouthwatering. Stylistically, this sits somewhere between the richer, riper register of 2018 and 2017 and the fragrant classicism of 2016. As ever, it’s one of the most dependably delicious purchases to be made in the region.”

Shop our complete selection of 56 Beaujolais in stock now including picks from Clos de la Roilette, Daniel Bouland, and more!
 

As the story goes, Sir Winston Churchill had a lifelong taste for Champagne that started during his service in WW1. He is quoted with saying “Remember, gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne,” when on the frontlines of Epernay. After the World Wars, Odette Pol Roger became personal friends with Sir Winston Churchill and they remained friends for decades until his death. He was reputed to be one of the largest buyers of Pol Roger in the world, drinking an average of two bottles of Vintage Pol Roger per day. 

His passing sparked the creation of the Sir Winston Churchill cuvee, meant to serve as their new Tête de Cuvee. In honor of its namesake the cuvee is made in the style that Churchill preferred: with at least 10 years of aging on the lees, a Grand Cru assemblage that is Pinot Noir dominant, and built to age. Judging from critical reception, this bottling is only getting better with age. This Tête de Cuvee is perfectly suited for  special gifts, cellaring or personal consumption if you’re feeling aristocratic. Don’t skip the vintage wine, either. 2013 is looking to be a glorious year in a throwback style from the long and cool growing season.

In Stock Now:

Pol Roger Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill Brut, Champagne 2006 750ML ($359.95) $319 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 98 points “[Reviewed 2018] Editor’s Choice. This is the latest release of this legendary wine. A blend, although with a majority of Pinot Noir (Churchill’s preference), the wine is rich, just beginning to show wonderful signs of maturity. It still has intense fruit along with the taut mineral texture that will allow the wine to age further. It is a standout Champagne from this vintage. Drink now, although this Champagne will age for many years. -Roger Voss”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 95 points “[Reviewed 2018] Made in the very best vintages, Pol Roger’s white-golden colored 2006 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill offers a very clear, precise, ripe and complex bouquet with fruity and refreshingly chalky, nutty and brioche notes. Full-bodied and complex on the palate, the 2006 is supple, round and rich but also fine, elegant, fresh and well structured. It has a harmonious yet tight, persistent and very promising finish that puts this silky textured, Pinot-dominated cuvée (the exact blend is a closely guarded family secret) on the border of fatty richness. But the mousse gives so much freshness and finesse that everything seems lifted here. Though I have very limited experience with matured Champagnes from Pol Roger and namely Churchill, I suppose the 2006 will benefit a lot from further bottle aging. But don’t get me wrong: the wine is already gorgeous.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “[Reviewed 2017] This dances gracefully on the palate, with rich and expressive flavors of peach tart, raspberry sorbet, candied ginger and orange peel, and sleek acidity that leaves a mouthwatering impression on the satiny finish. Drink now through 2031. 600 cases imported. — AN”
James Suckling 95 points “[Reviewed 2017] Some reductive meaty notes of bacon fat and flint, with lemon cream and butter too, as well as a light forest berry edge and toasted hazelnuts. The palate has attractive lemon citrus cream flavor. Super pure, there’s power amongst the charm. This is a great ’06. Drink now.”

Pol Roger Vintage Brut, Champagne 2013 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Very much in the ripe Pol Roger style, this Champagne is just approaching maturity. With its balance of crisp minerality and richness, it is a great wine from a medium-quality vintage. Although the wine is ready to drink, its style says that it will age further and could be enjoyed when it has become more toasty from 2022. -Roger Voss”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points “Pol Roger’s just-released 2013 Brut Vintage is a beautifully chiseled, incisive wine that will appeal immensely to purists. Unwinding in the glass with scents of citrus zest, white flowers, crushed chalk and hints of fresh sourdoughs, it’s medium to full-bodied, racy and precise, with a nicely concentrated and tightly wound core, tangy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse. After the rich, muscular 2012 vintage, the 2013 represents quite a contrast; I’m not sure we’ll see its stylistic like again for some time, so readers with classically inclined palates will want to stock up—advice I’ll be following myself.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Arriving Friday

Pol Roger Brut Reserve, Champagne NV 750ML ($64.95) $54.90 pre-arrival special
Decanter 93 points “[Reviewed Oct 2021] Richly biscuity on the nose, with steamed rice, fresh pear and citrus blossom complexity. Creamy mousse dissolves into red apple peel, lemon and stone fruits, with a depth of honeyed biscuits. The Reserve NV from Pol Roger is a blend of base wines from at least three vintages. With 6 months of post-disgorgement ageing, the wine is ready to enjoy now. Drinking Window 2021 – 2026.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 92 points “[Reviewed 2021] The current release of Pol Roger’s NV Brut Réserve is quite dramatic, bursting with aromas of mandarin oil, honeycomb, elderflower, fresh bread and musky peach. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it’s generous and textural, with a rich core of fruit, lively acids and a pillowy mousse.”

Shop our MASSIVE selection of Champagne in-stock now!