03-28-22 Newsletter

In This Newsletter:

Chalky Mountain High: 
Vatan’s Benchmark Sauvignon Blanc 



The Exponent of Épernay:
Charles Ellner Champagne 



Rose of the Day: 
Domaine Lafage



Poggione Party: Brunello for every palate 


Schatzel: Tiffany Blue Treasures


Domaine Charvin: Singular Châteauneuf 


Collector’s Corner 
Pommery: The “other” Madame 

 

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Chalky Mountain High: 
Vatan’s Benchmark Sauvignon Blanc 

France is a country known for her Grand Crus but more often than not it’s the winemakers who catapult their appellations to the top of the global buying lists. Edmond Vatan is definitively one of those, with his Sancerre from his Clos La Neore vineyard putting the appellation on the map. The estate’s farming is entirely chemical free and was one of the first producers in the region to convert to organics. Vatan is considered the most age-worthy example of the varietal on Earth, with an austerity that lasts for years after release. 

Practicing severe pruning and exactingly low intervention in both the vineyard and cellar, this is the gold standard for Sauvignon Blanc. The Clos La Neore is produced from a single hectare of 45+ year old vines on a south facing slope of pure chalk in Mont Damnes. Vatan practices extended hang time on the vine, resulting in a textural and aromatic punch far beyond what other producers deliver. After retiring to a consulting winemaker role in 2007, Edmond’s daughter Annie now holds the reigns with their production still remaining exceedingly small. Our allocation won’t last long, so act while you still have a chance! 

Vatan in stock now:  

Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Neore Loire 2016 750ML ($599.95) $499 special, 10 bottles in stock now   
 
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

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The Exponent of Épernay:
Charles Ellner Champagne 

  
Considering the market dominance formerly held by the Grand Marques, there is much to be said about smaller negociants. Often combining their family’s holdings with purchased fruit from other vineyards, negociant champagne represents the juxtaposition of art and science that is assemblage. You’d be hard pressed to find a better example of this expertise than the Charles Ellner portfolio. Originally working as a riddler for other houses, Charles Ellner decided to hold back some of his family’s production for his own project, and the rest is history! 

Charles Ellner’s origin as a passion project is clearly evident even to this day, with the estate fruit being grown organically and without synthetic inputs whatsoever. This commitment to quality does not stop in the vineyard however; the minimum time his Champagnes receive on the lees is double the required time. The resulting wines capture the beauty of autolysis and the freshness of a current vintage along with the juxtaposing toast, fruit and mineral character.

Charles Ellner wines in stock now: 

Charles Ellner Carte Blanche Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne  NV 750ML ($39.95) $31.90 special, 23 bottles in stock now
Importer note 
“This elegant and subtle blend offers an attractive freshness. On the palate, it is fruity and round with floral hints and citrus notes.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Charles Ellner Brut Rose Champagne  NV 375ML ($27.95) $21.90 special, 16 half bottles in stock now
Charles Ellner Brut Rose Champagne NV 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 33 bottles in stock now
Winery note 
“Soft pink: an invitation to the eyes, strong on the nose with hints of strawberry, this champagne offers intensive fruity aromas. The chardonnay that represents half of the blend gives freshness, but also longevity.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Charles Ellner Seduction Brut Millesime Champagne 2007 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 92 points
 “A toasty hint of grilled nut adds savory richness to this bright, light-footed Champagne. The firm acidity is well-meshed to notes of yellow plum, candied ginger and lemon curd. Not a powerhouse, but fresh and balanced. Drink now through 2027. — AN”

 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
 
 
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Rose of the Day: 
Domaine Lafage 

 
There are few areas in the world that have been cultivating wine grapes as long as the South of France. Originally planted by the Corinthians in the 7th century, the region is famous for her almost constant sunshine, warm temperatures, refreshing breeze and spectacular vistas of the Mediterranean Sea and amphitheater of mountains. 

These elements converge to make it a veritable paradise, and exceptional terroir for wine. The best sites have often been cultivated since the Roman Empire, and oftentimes still feature the original stone terraces made by them to prevent erosion. Domaine Lafage is lucky enough to have one of these sites, with the oldest vines being over 80 years old.

Comprised of Grenache Noir and its rare mutation Grenache Gris with a sprinkling of younger Mourvèdre vines, this is a quintessential Roussillon rose. With a flavor profile that brings to mind apricots, peaches and river rock minerality, the sites proximity to the sea is evident in the glass with a refreshing salinity that is reminiscent of ocean air accentuated by oregano blossom, wormwood and marmalade.         

Domaine Lafage Cotes du Roussillon Miraflors Rose France 2020 ($21.95) $18 special, 33 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 91 points 
“White peach, orange blossom, and white flower notes emerge from the 2020 Miraflors. It’s another clean, balanced, beautiful effort with bright acidity and a clean, dry finish.”
Eric Solomon Imports note “Mourvedre, Grenache Gris, Grenache Practicing Organic 80 yr old vines. Light Pink-colored with beautiful white peach, orange zest and salty sea breeze aromas and flabros in its vibrant, crisp profile. Pure and vibrant as it gets, a classic, provencal-style beauty.”

We carry 72 different bottlings of Rose in addition to a plethora of other bottlings by Domaine Lafage!
 

 
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Poggione Party: Brunello for every palate
 
For those unfamiliar with the wines of Il Poggione, let’s catch you up quickly. They’re a classic Brunello producer working with very traditional methods in the subzone of Sant’Angelo in Colle, a region that tends to produce wines with big, bold personalities. The results are both crowd pleasing (rich fruit, up front aromatics) and intellectually stimulating (age-worthy, not obstructed by new oak) in way that’s unique in Brunello –outside of names that trade for significantly more money per bottle. Il Poggione’s Brunello is contradictory in all the best ways. It’s an age-worthy wine that doesn’t necessarily require aging.

Il Poggione in stock now: 

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2013 375ML ($39.95) $28 special
Case-12 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2013 375ML ($479.95) $299 special (that’s only $24.92/half-bottle!) 
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 96 points
 “The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino lives up to the impeccable reputation garnered by this estate over the years. This is a profound and beautifully rendered Sangiovese that delivers bold and luscious fruit quality with black cherry and spicy plum at the start. The bouquet follows through with mild oak notes of smoke, tar and toasted nut. There is another aromatic component that includes crushed stone and dried herb or mint. This Brunello shows elegant evolution in the glass and promises a very long aging future ahead. Some 200,000 bottles were made, so it should be easy to locate this excellent wine.”
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 95 points “Bright red. Pure, refined red cherry and wild strawberry aromas and flavors complicated by sweet spices and aromatic herbs. Deep and multilayered, the wine boasts polished tannins and a harmonious acid spine that lifts and extends the red fruit on the long, suave finish. An essence of Sant’Angelo in Colle with bigger body and palate weight than, for example, the Brunellos of Montosoli, but still sleek and refined as the best wines of Sant’Angelo in Colle can be. The cool-climate-styled 2013 vintage is precisely the type of year in which Il Poggione excels: this lovely, focused wine is the best classico Brunello from Il Poggione in years. Superb.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2015 750ML ($89.95) $62.50 special, 26 bottles in stock now  
Case-6 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2015 750ML ($539.95) $359 special, (That’s only $59.84 per bottle!) 
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 97 points
 “The Il Poggione 2015 Brunello di Montalcino shows a darker and more concentrated appearance than many of its peers. The wine is beautifully abundant and fragrant in the most exuberant and expressive manner. You will recognize aromas of moist soil, tobacco and smoke. Candied cherry hovers over the entire bouquet. Fruit is sourced from older vines (all over 25 years old). Il Poggione occupies a special spot within the Montalcino appellation, and the area always produces slightly more concentrated and powerful wines. I find that to be particularly true in this gorgeous 2015 vintage. I am also very attracted to that almost dusty note of crushed mineral that rides long on the full-bodied finish. Il Poggione’s Brunello is also distinguished by firm, youthful tannin that need a few more years to unwind. Luckily, there are quite a few bottles to go around, with some 200,000 made.”
Eric Guido-Vinous 97 points “Il Poggione 2015 Brunello di Montalcino offers up a dark, earthy, almost animal-like expression, showing black soil and undergrowth, giving way to crushed black cherry, dusty spice, and dried florals which lift the experience. On the palate, soft, fleshy textures usher in fresh cherry and strawberry, as brisk acids add energy, with savory herbs and minerals saturating, as the 2015 Il Poggione’s fruit nearly masks its structural core. The finish is long yet fresh, with classic, fine tannins, dried red fruits and pretty inner floral tones lingering throughout this perfectly balanced expression. The 2015 s pure class and built for the cellar.”
James Suckling 96 points “So many sour cherries rise up from the glass, along with orange rind and lemon peel. The full-bodied palate has a very serious and concentrated core of florals and fruit, and the tannins have an iron-fisted, strapping build. Long, chewy and structured. One of the best in years from here. Drink from 2025.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Wild herb and Mediterranean macchia notes mark this expressive red. Though well-endowed with tannins, this is on the sleek side, showing vibrant acidity. Cherry, strawberry, floral and tobacco flavors join the party as this cruises to a long finish. Best from 2023 through 2042. 9,000 cases made, 1,750 cases imported.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2016 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 97 points
 “I’m not sure how Il Poggione manages to remain one of the largest producers of Brunello maintaining such a high level of quality and turning out some of the best wines of the vintage year after year – but they do. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is yet another stunning example. Depths of mineral-encased black cherries sage allspice licorice tobacco and crushed violets lift up from the glass. It’s seamlessly silky even as the palate is peppered with tart red and black berries nervous acids and savory exotic spices. This shows the density and weight of the vintage in a youthfully monolithic stance yet with all the necessary components to maintain perfect balance. The 2016 Il Poggione seems to fold in upon itself through the finish which is dark mysterious and structured with only hints of black tea and licorice to tempt the imagination. It’s a classic in the making. (Drink between 2026-2040)”
Wine Spectator 96 points “This Brunello leads with black cherry black currant and violet aromas augmented by flavors of iron tobacco and spice. Dusty tannins emerge on the lingering finish while the sweet fruit persists. Should be compelling in a decade. Best from 2025 through 2047”
Wine Advocate 95 points “The Il Poggione 2016 Brunello di Montalcino opens to a medium dark appearance with pretty Sangiovese shine and a little ruby sparkle. This vintage shows a slightly untamed or wild side with a dense and heavier fruit profile. The focus here is on blackberry dried cherry tobacco and even a touch of smoky tobacco or horse saddle. The wine shows the firm grip and tannic backbone that is a common trait in this vintage especially with the vineyards on this southern sunlit side of the appellation. I also get a considerable flash of acidity on the close almost too much that certainly needs a few more years to soften. You really need to wait with this one. Production is an ample 200000 bottles.”
 
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
 
 
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Schatzel: Tiffany Blue Treasures
 
Much like German wine in general, the Rheinhessen is in the midst of a wine renaissance. While being credited with the first established vineyard in the entire country dating back to the Roman era, the majority of the area was previously too cold to produce Riesling at a satisfying level of ripeness. As a result, the region became largely devoted to bulk wine production post-WW II (most notably the infamous Liebfraumilch). That has all changed largely due to Weingut Schatzel, a family producer that has been growing wine grapes since 1304. The vineyards managed by Schatzel in the Roter Hang (Red Slope) have been compared to the terraces of Côte-Rôtie and the Mosel due to their steepness and distinctive soil. Composed of bright red slate and quartzite that reflects and absorbs heat to assist in ripening, this is the “Grand Cru” of the Rheinhessen. 

In order to express the varietal character as well as the terroir differences, Schatzel bottles their wines by vineyard. Encompassing over five separate vineyards within the Rhineterasse, the resulting wines walk a tightrope of minerality between fleshy and austere fruit expression, encompassing a spectrum of flavor ranging from passionfruit, lemon curd, ginger juice and peaches. The cornucopia of jasmine, valerian flower, lavender stem, wet slate, crushed nutmeg and charred grapefruit aromas challenge you to not finish the glass in record time. In spite of drinking beautifully now, these are built to age and should only get more ethereal. These are fabulous examples of why Riesling is considered one of the rare “universal pairing” wines of the world.

Schatzel wines in stock now: 

Weingut Schätzel Hipping Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen 2017 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 16 bottles in stock now
Stuart Pigott-jamessuckling.com 94 points
 “Could a white wine be fresher than this? Fabulous white-peach and herbal character with lots of mineral power at the complex, racy finish.”
 
This is the only listing in the USA today!


Weingut Schätzel Nierstein Silvaner, Rheinhessen 2017 750ML ($34.95) $29 special, 18 bottles in stock now
Winery note
 “Honeydew melon, white fruits and earthy undertones. Slightly reductive, herbal, nutty and mineral character. Bone dry and juicy on the palate. Extremely complex for 11% vol.”
 
This is the only listing in the USA today!

Weingut Schätzel Olberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs, Rheinhessen 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 18 bottles in stock now
Stuart Pigott-jamessuckling 94 points
 “Considering this has only 11.5 per cent alcohol, there is extraordinary depth and vitality. The long finish is sleek and fine-grained, without any hint of edginess. Attractive white-fruit aromas, too. Drink or hold.”
 
This is the only listing in the USA today!


Weingut Schätzel Pettenthal Riesling Kabinett Grosses Gewächs, Rheinhessen 2017 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 15 bottle in stock now
Stuart Pigott-jamessuckling 95 points
 “Forget the rules, pack your bag, grab this bottle and leave your old life behind! Savage mineral beauty, combined with light body and enormous brightness. Drink or hold.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!


Weingut Schätzel Reinschiefer Riesling, Rheinhessen 2017 750ML ($34.95) $29 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Stuart Pigott-jamessuckling.com 92 points
 “Delicate white-fruit character and a delightful lightness of touch make this rather charming, in spite of its slightly eccentric personality. Long, lemon and mineral finish. A blend of wines from the top sites in Hipping, Ölberg and Pettentha. Screw cap.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
 
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Domaine Charvin: Singular Châteauneuf


Domaine Charvin is a quintessential Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer originally founded in 1851. Producing only a single cuvee from their estate, their bottling is among the most complete pictures of the regions terroir. With an average vine age of 35 years old, organic farming practices and five different component grapes; delightful doesn’t begin to cover the experience of their wines. Located in the northern section of the village, there is a mix of soil types that further exemplify the wine as a benchmark in the classic garrigue and mineral components.

Domaine Charvin in stock now: 

Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 2018 750ML ($79.95) $52.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94-96 points
 “Dark glistening red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries, baking spices, garrigue and candied flowers, and a smoky mineral flourish appears as the wine opens up. Sappy, sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering juicy black raspberry, cherry and lavender pastille flavors joined by hints of allspice and bitter chocolate. Smooth and seamless in texture, showing superb finishing clarity, gently gripping tannins and strong, spicy persistence. This is a somewhat more brawny wine than usual for Laurent Charvin, but it still retains the domaine’s trademark balance and energy.”
James Suckling 95-96 points “A very tidy array of fresh strawberries, raspberries and poached, red plums. Sweet perfume and light, sappy, spicy complexity, too. The palate delivers an array of succulent, smooth tannins that offer fluid, suave, textural allure. Silky. Barrel sample.”

Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 2019 750ML ( $69.95) $59 special, 24 bottles in stock now
Case-6  Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 2019 ($419.95) $333 special, (That’s only $55.50 per bottle!) 
Matt Walls – Decanter 95 points 
“Dark fruited but so alive and bright on the nose. Plums, damsons, and their crushed stones. Very rounded and generous this year, it has strong inner architecture to back up the fruit, and a long, structured and textural finish from the stems. Ends proud and mineral. This will be very good indeed when it’s ready – structured and fresh enough to stay the course and give complexity when the time comes. 82% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah, 4% Counoise, 4% Vaccarèse. Organically grown at the north-west of the appellation, lieux-dits Cabrières and Maucoil, galets roulés and sand. It’s fermented and then aged for 21 months in concrete using indigenous yeasts, then bottled unfiltered.”
 
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Collector’s Corner 
Pommery: The “other” Madame 


 
You’ve heard of the Champagne widow and pioneer Madame Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin (also known as Madame Clicquot), but have you heard of Madame Pommery? While you can be forgiven for not knowing her, Champagne as we know it would not exist without her contributions. In the 1870’s Champagne was one of the sweetest wines of the world for a number of reasons. The first and foremost was to balance out the otherwise searing acid that was seen in Champagnes of the period. The second was to cater to commercial preferences of the era, particularly from the Russian royal family and their contemporaries who loved exceptionally sweet wines. 

This all changed when Madame Louise Pommery commissioned her cellarmaster to make a champagne with as little added sugar as possible, creating the category we now know to be “Brut”. The debut vintage in 1874 was an overnight success in England, who had developed a preference for drier styles of wine. It was so popular in fact, that it set records in London for the highest ever paid for Champagne at auction. The Brut style clearly outlived its sweeter contemporary, given the latter is rarely seen on the market anymore.

The Tête de Cuvee from Pommery is named after Madame Louise and in honor of her legacy has the barest amount of sugar added. Comprised of three Grand Cru vineyard sources Avize, Cramant and Aÿ and aged for 11 years on its lees before disgorgement. The blend itself is predominantly Chardonnay but has 40% Pinot Noir inclusion as well. The Grand Cru sources for the fruit are clearly evident in the concentrated flavors, strong mineral character and high acidity with notes of toasted brioche, blackcurrant preserves, hazelnut paste, pine nuts and lemon curd. With the “current” release being the 2004, this is a Champagne built for the long haul to say the least. We also carry a number of magnums, back vintages and the elusive Rosé bottling!

In stock and available now: 

Pommery Cuvee Louise Brut Millesime 2004 750ML ($149.95) $125 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Pommery Cuvee Louise Brut Millesime 2004 1.5L ($299.95) $279 special, 4 magnums in stock now 
James Suckling 95 points
 “A very fine-textured Champagne with lovely density and finesse. The bubbles roll off the palate. Full body. Extremely creamy and flavorful. Shows wonderful finesse and a lovely, chalky, lemon-curd and brioche aftertaste. Drink now.”
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Pommery’s prestige Champagne is named after one of the great Champagne widows of the 19th century who took over when her husband, Alexandre Pommery, died. It is a rich, mature wine, with toast and almond flavors as much as fruit. Full of mineral Chardonnay (60% of the blend), this ripe wine is very ready to drink.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “Bright and minerally, featuring smoke and pastry dough notes layered with lemon curd and pureed black currant details, riding the lively bead. Offers a creamy finish, with a lightly floral overtone. Drink now through 2024. 16,666 cases made.”
 
This is the only listing for a magnum in the USA today!

Pommery Cuvee Louise Brut Nature 2004 750ML ($199.95) $149 special, 32 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 97 points
 “A creamy and refined 2004 with a very reserved and tight palate of ultra fine tannins that lend the wine beautiful creaminess and finesse. Subtly floral, offering lightly cooked apples and lemons. Flavorful, yet always hiding behind the fine bubbles. Drink now.”
 
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Pommery Cuvee Louise Brut Rose Millesime 2004 750ML ($299.95) $219 special, 25 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 95 points
 “This is a new release and shows wonderful finesse and beauty. You know that the moment you see the pale-amber color. It’s medium bodied with freshness and energy and a long, vivid finish. A joy to taste. Drink now.”
 
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Pommery Grand Cru Brut Millesime 2008 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 30 bottles in stock now
Winery note
 “It was a must for Pommery not to miss out on one of the greatest vintages of champagne. One single term to characterise 2008: unexpected! After a difficult summer, nature succeeded in aligning its stars and allowed us to have an exceptional harvest. 2008 has already conquered aficionados from all over the world, but it is a special vision of 2008 in the pure style of our Maison that we propose to you. Only originating from grands crus, with an exceptional ageing potential, slowly brought to maturity in the freshness of our 18 kilometres of galleries, it is necessary to wait to taste a Pommery vintage at its zenith: the precise moment when all the components are in harmony and when maturity, freshness and complexity come together. This moment has come for our 2008 vintage. The nose presents the patina of the Pommery vintages: elegance, minerality, freshness. First of all intense floral notes reach us: the peony floats around the hawthorn. Maturity is expressed by fruity notes of pear and fresh apricot. The great Pinot Noir present themselves with notes of crushed fresh strawberries. On the palate, the tasting is floating, with a great uprightness. A mineral structure fills the palate from the attack to the finish like a spine. Notes of acacia honey and Mirabelle underline the central element of the tasting. The finish is punctuated by a nice sweetness, marked by flavours of blood orange.”
 
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

We carry a number of Les Grandes Marques in store including BollingerRoederer and Lanson