Vinopolpick Friday Newsletter 09-17-21

 

The 2019 vintage was a much welcomed “reset” in Santa Barbara after wildfires and drought seen in previous years with rain in the wintertime restoring ground reserves. That energy continued throughout the season, with the growing year recording exceptionally high acids and low yields. This is music to a winemaker’s ears, as it usually promises flavor intensity and a long life in the bottle. The 2019’s we’ve received from Sandhi are no different, offering a fabulous juxtaposition to their 2016 of the same label, both featuring notes of grilled citrus, lime leaf, sea spray and white flowers. There’s also notes of pine and oregano flower on the 2019 that makes it perfect for any course pairing. We were only able to acquire limited quantities of this vintage, so stock up while it’s here.

Vineyard sources for the Sandhi lineup include the legendary cool climate Bien Nacido, best known by the single vineyard bottlings produced by the Bien Nacido estate, Au Bon Climat, and Qupe Winery, and the world-classic, historic Sanford & Benedict. This Chardonnay is a barrel selection from these illustrious vineyards. It was crafted with the wine director at one of SF’s finest restaurants, Zuni Café. We knew it would be a charming and food-friendly wine, but we were stunned by the quality when we tasted a sample bottle last week. Fans of Evening Land will be dazzled by the beauty and elegance through a Californian lens, fans of Sandhi will be impressed by the price.

Available Now:

Sandhi Zuni Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2019 750ML ($34.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Sandhi Zuni Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2019 750ML ($399.95) $249 special (that’s only $20.75/bottle!)
Winery note “If you’ve ever sat at San Francisco’s iconic Zuni Café with a plate of oysters in front of you while you wait for the iconic whole roast chicken, you may have had a glass or two of this collaboration between longtime friends Rajat Parr of Sandhi and Zuni wine director Thierry Lovato.  The wine is a barrel selection from some of Sandhi’s iconic Sta. Rita Hills sites, (think Mt. Carmel, Sanford & Benedict) with enough own-rooted, 1973 Wente selection Bien Nacido Chardonnay blended in to warrant a Santa Barbara County designation.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Check out our other offerings from Sandhi and Evening Land Vineyards today!

Priorat remains one of the most sought after and highly lauded wine producing regions in all of Spain. The high concentration of old vines; cult level producers, high elevation and Mediterranean climate have made it a hotbed for Spain’s fine wine revolution. Ritme Cellars is among this new school, with some of the most critically lauded wines in the entire province. 

Priorat wines are largely based around different cultivars of Grenache and Carignan, grapes usually associated with being medium bodied and fruity. However they take on a whole new dimension on the terraced vineyards of martian-esque shale. Called llicorella by the locals it’s famous for the savory minerality that’s imparted to the grapes, in addition to ripening grapes faster by heat radiation. As a result of being under vine for thousands of years, even the entry level from Acoustic features 20-65 year old vines grown at over 1,000 feet above sea level. Considering that comparable bottlings from Priorat usually sell in the $45-60 range, this is a perfect wine to stock for long term cellaring and enjoyment. 

Acustic Celler Tinto Montsant 2018 750ML ($24.95) $19 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 91 points “The eponymous red 2018 Acústic is a blend of 70% Cariñena and 30% Garnacha from across Montsant and matured in used barrels for nine to 10 months. It’s not a light wine, at 15% alcohol, but it has compensating acidity. The nose is quite fruit-driven, the ripeness is restrained for the alcohol level, the oak is neatly integrated, and the wine is juicy and tasty, with polished tannins and nice balance.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 91 points “Lurid violet. Lively blue fruit and cherry aromas pick up licorice and musky herb notes in the glass. Lush blueberry and bitter cherry flavors tighten up with air and show spicy back-end lift. Smooth tannins lend subtle grip to a long, spicy finish that echoes the cherry note. I like the mix of depth and energy here.”
Importer note “Albert Jané comes from a family steeped in the wine business in the Penedès. Beginning in 2003, Albert began acquiring small parcels of old vineyards in the rugged, varied terroir of DO Montsant. Naming his cellar “acústic”, he strives for wines that directly convey the exposition and uniqueness of each site, without artifice or contrivance. All wines are made from indigenous varieties: Garnatxa, Samsó, Garnatxa Blanc, Pansal and Macabeo. Vineyard age rangesfrom 35 to 120 years.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

The Rheingau is one of the smallest German wine regions in terms of both size and output, and yet produces some of the best Rieslings in the entire country. We were lucky enough to secure a small lot of JB Becker, one of the areas cult producers of dry Riesling. After apprenticing under a cellarmaster in his youth, Hans-Josef Becker decided to fully transition his family’s operation to Dry and Off-Dry Riesling and hasn’t looked back in 50 years. These are wines made similar in style to Prum in that fermentations are short with long elevage, or cask aging and always done with wild yeasts.

Becker’s work captures the essence of Riesling, with emphasis on the rarely seen brawny, smokey and powerful side of the varietal that is unmistakably Rheingau. From his entry level cuvee to his single vineyards there’s a distinctive huángchá, chrysanthemum and pippin apple that make it absolutely fantastic with sushi, paella or Creole food.  


In Stock Now & Highly Limited:

J.B. Becker Wallufer Riesling Trocken Rheingau 2019 1L ($29.95) $25.50 special, 7 bottles in stock now

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Check out our full selection of J.B Becker on our web store!

Founded by Gaston Hochar in 1930, his son Serge took the world by storm in the late 1970’s after leaving Bordeaux for the Bekka Valley. Lebanon is one of the world’s first producers of wine that dates back over 6,000 years and was mentioned throughout antiquity for its quality, but has seen almost constant unrest since World War 2. Working with a blend of varietals including Cinsault, Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvigion for reds, the reds are built for serious aging and collecting. Expect all the power and nuance of a super Tuscan, with the lift of Bandol and a totally unique frankincense, oud and cumin character that is definitively Middle Eastern 

Chateau Musar ‘Hochar Pere et Fils’ Red, Bekaa Valley 2017 ($34.95) $28 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Decanter 91 points “This single-vineyard wine, from Aana, is made in a modern style: concentrated and slightly reductive. It shows notes of new oak barrels, lovely red berry fruit (reminiscent of Grenache) and garrigue aromas. So Mediterranean on the palate, with sweet tannins, spices and a meaty hint on the aftertaste. A very friendly, easy-to-drink and enjoyable wine. It becomes even better and more refined a day after the bottle is opened. I would recommend decanting it.”
Antonio Galloni 90 points “The 2017 Hochar is powerful and dense in the glass. Ripe flavors and incisive tannins give the 2017 much of its brooding personality. Readers should plan on opening the 2017 at least an hour or two in advance, as the tannins are rather grainy at the outset. With time, ripe black cherry, spice, leather and licorice flavors emerge nicely. The blend is 55% Cinsault, 35% Grenache and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.”  

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

 Producer Spotlight: 

Phillipe Tessier

  

Charles Smith is one of the best winemakers in the State of Washington, having built and sold his labels since 2001. He clearly hasn’t been content to sit on his laurels, with bottlings encompassing both reds and whites from across Washington State. Big on character and low in price, these are wines that perfectly encapsulate the spirit of the regions production. Much like Washington State wine in general, the portfolio is Syrah heavy with guest appearances by Grenache and Chardonnay. 

In Stock Now from K Vintners:

Charles Smith K Vintners The Boy Grenache Walla Walla Valley 2017 750ML ($49.95) $36 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “Made from 100% Powerline Vineyard (since 2015), the 2017 Grenache The Boy Powerline Vineyard sports a lighter ruby hue as well as Rayas-like notes of decayed flowers, kirsch liqueur, licorice, and cured meats. Seamless, medium-bodied, and beautifully polished, with fine tannins, it’s a stunning, Burgundian example of this variety to enjoy over the coming 15-20 years. There are a little over 1,000 cases produced.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Charles Smith K Vintners The Boy Grenache Walla Walla Valley 2018 750ML ($44.95) $34.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “Gorgeous framboise and ripe strawberry fruits as well as spice, herbes de Provence, and wildflower notes emerge from the 2018 Grenache The Boy Powerline Vineyard, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a seamless, elegant texture and outstanding length. This is another thrilling Grenache from this team that does everything right. It’s hard to resist today yet should keep for 10-12 years in cold cellars.”
James Suckling 96 points “A lovely grenache with ripe strawberry, white pepper and hints of hazelnut on both the nose and palate. Medium to full body, fine tannins and a spicy finish. 100% whole cluster. No new oak. So yummy. Drink now or hold.

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Charles Smith K Vintners The Cattle King Syrah Snipes Mountain 2016 750ML ($89.95) $59 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 97+ points “The 2016 Syrah Cattle King Upland Vineyard comes from Snipes Mountain and has a singular, pretty, fresh style with more obvious acidity as well as tannins, yet it still stays in the plush, sexy style of the estate. Blue and black fruits, blood orange, violets, and exotic spice notes all define the bouquet and it’s full-bodied, incredibly pure and seamless on the palate. It’s a beautiful wine that’s going to come together nicely for 2-3 years of bottle age and keep for over a decade.”
James Suckling 95 points “From a sloping plot of deep river rock, this has a fresh array of red and blue berries with a fine, stony edge. The palate has a very sleek, composed feel with such length and composure. The purity of blackberry and blueberry flavors is entrancing. Holds so fresh. Drink this now or hold for a decade or more.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2016 Syrah Cattle King leads with expressive red, black and blue fruits on the nose with a density that can be sensed just by nosing the glass. Black cherry, blackcurrant and boysenberry compote all vie for your attention with savory spices and resinous purple flowers. The full-bodied palate is dense with a pedal-to-metal winemaking approach with chewy tannins and supporting acidity. It continues to linger with spice tones as it changes over a 20-30 second period after the wine has left the palate. Just under 500 cases were produced-AM “
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 94 points “Lively scents of redcurrant, raspberry and dried herbs, plus a whiff of tea leaf. Bright on entry, the pliant but firm in the middle palate, with its dense flavors of red berries and rocky minerality enlivened by penetrating acidity (the pH is actually 3.85). This savory, subtle midweight finishes surprisingly reticent but very long. I never would have guessed the alcohol but it should help this wine age well. Leighton noted that this vineyard was created when “the mountain rose up and pulled the river up the side of the hill”–hence the cobblestones at this altitude. (15% alcohol; from mineral-rich cobblestone soil”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Charles Smith K Vintners The Deal Sundance Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley 2017 750ML ($37.95) $29 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “Similarly colored, the 2017 Syrah The Deal comes from the Sundance Vineyard and gravelly, sandy, volcanic soils. It was not destemmed and was brought up in 30% new puncheons. It’s another ethereal, complex, yet powerful wine that has loads of black raspberry and blackberry fruits, smoked game, leafy herbs, and tobacco aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied and just seamless on the palate, it’s going to evolve for 10-15 years.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Charles Smith K Vintners Milbrandt Vineyard Syrah Wahluke Slope 2017 750ML ($39.95) $29 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The only wine fermented in stainless steel (they like more precision with this wine) and aged in 30% new puncheons, the 2017 Syrah Milbrandt Vineyard reveals a deep ruby color as well as ripe, sexy notes of blackberries, raspberries, black pepper, leafy herbs, and smoked game. It’s rich, medium-bodied, layered, and just a beautiful wine that will keep for 8-10 years.”
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Dark red-ruby. Higher-pitched aromas of blueberry, redcurrant, flowers and spices. Good mineral grip gives sharp definition to the fresh red fruit and spice flavors, with aeration bringing notes of rhubarb, black cherry, wet earth and mint and an emerging saline character. Finishes with big, broad, dusty tannins that grab the tongue. Highly distinctive Syrah. (a 50/50 blend of two distinct soil types in a high-elevation site–one gravel and sand and the other featuring limestone and volcanic rock–vinified together in stainless steel).”

Charles Smith K Vintners Milbrandt Vineyard Syrah Wahluke Slope 2018 750ML ($31.95) $24.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 93+ points “Another ripe, sexy wine from this estate, the 2018 Syrah Milbrandt has a lifted bouquet of ripe plums, candied violets, chocolate, and gamey, peppery herb nuances. Rich, round, and mouth-filling on the palate, this full-bodied Syrah packs a punch yet stays fresh, balanced, and incredibly drinkable. It will benefit from a year or three in the cellar and drink well for over a decade.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Charles Smith K Vintners River Rock Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2016 750ML ($59.95) $39 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Winery note “This wine smells really good. It is really good! Energy galore, a focused palate. Aroma of undergrowth, raspberry, plum, sandalwood, anise, marjoram and cured meat. All culminating in a lush, taunt delivery and an unending finish. Yes, really good! 100% Syrah / 100% whole cluster pressed / Native yeast / 40 days on skins / 40% new French oak puncheons / 20 mo. barrel-aged on lees.”   

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Charles Smith ‘Sixto’ Moxee Chardonnay Washington State 2016 750ML ($39.95) $28 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The 2016 Chardonnay Moxee comes from more limestone soils and 50-year-old vines planted on the northeastern edge of the Yakima Valley. It’s classic Chardonnay offering beautiful, Chablis-like white flowers, lemon curd, and white peach notes. With a terrific sense of minerality, a concentrated yet balanced mouthfeel, and a great finish, it’s another terrific white from this team.”
James Suckling 94 points “The oldest of the three chardonnay vineyards (52 years) and low-yielding, this has a very rich and creamy nose with fully ripe peaches and subtle biscuit spices. The palate is plush, ripe and rich with a wealth of dense, fleshy fruit. Holds long with fresh, rye-like grain and cashews and almonds to close. Quiet esoteric and darn good chardonnay. Drink now.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Boulay: The Baron of Chavignol

Collectors Corner: Huet