Vinopolis June 30 Newsletter

June 30, 2014

Vinopolis will be CLOSED July 4th for the holiday
We will return to normal hours on
Saturday, July 5th
10AM- 6PM

Taittinger Champagne Brut Reserve FIFA World Cup Edition NV ($79.95) $61.90 special
Taittinger, one of the great Champagne houses, has just released a special edition of their exceptional non-vintage wine, commemorating the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil. Each bottle comes packed in its own individual gift carton and has a special label, featuring holograms of ‘bouncing footballs’ in place of the standard ‘bubble’ design.

OREGON
Ransom Williammette Valley Pinot Noir Selection 2012 ($24.95) $21.90 special

Roco Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2011 ($29.95) $21.90 special

Beaux Freres Beaux Freres Vineyard Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir 2012 ($89.95) $81.90 special

CALIFORNIA
Opus One Proprietary Red Napa Valley 2010 ($249.95) $219 special
Antonio Galloni 97 points “One of the highlights among the more recent releases, the 2010 Opus One is flat-out gorgeous. Dark cherries, plums, graphite, cassis and pencil shavings are all woven together in a fabric of notable class and elegance. The 2010 stands out for its exceptional minerality, tension and pure power. Readers will have to be patient. This is a picture perfect rendering of this great Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon vintage.”

SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE
Dona Paula Estate Malbec 2012 ($17.95) $11.90 special

Lamadrid Estate Reserva Malbec 2011 ($21.95) $16 special
Stephen Tanzer 88 points “Bright, full ruby.  Aromas of blackberry, chocolate and fig are at once roasted and lightly medicinal.  Fat and ripe but dry in the mouth; boasts a mouthfilling texture but shows less class than the cabernet in this series.  Finishes with tongue-dusting, slightly green tannins and notes of smoke and tobacco.”

FRANCE- CHAMPAGNE
L. Aubry Fils Premier Cru Brut NV ($41.95) $36 special
L. Aubry Fils Premier Cru Brut NV 1.5L ($109.95) $89 special
L. Aubry Fils Premier Cru Brut NV 3L ($319.95) $279 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The NV Brut Premier Cru is a gorgeous wine, and a great introduction to the house style. Lemon, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass as this refined Champagne shows off its impeccable class and total pedigree. The Premier Cru is 45% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 5% Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau. The high percentage of red grapes is felt in the wine’s breadth, while the aromas and flavors remain fresh, vibrant and beautifully nuanced throughout. This is a fabulous entry-level offering. Disgorgement date: June 2012.” Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright straw. Pungent aromas of Meyer lemon, pear and fig, with a gingery accent adding lift. Sappy, penetrating citrus fruit and floral flavors are given a refreshingly bitter character by notes of pear skin and peach pit, with a waxy note coming up on the back half. A smoky nuance lingers on the finish, which shows very good clarity and length.”

L. Aubry Fils Le Nombre d’Or Sable Blanc de Blancs Campanae Veteres Vites Brut 2008 ($79.95) $59 special
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2008 Brut Le Nombre d’Or Campanae Veteres Vites is beautifully open, expressive and resonant today. Here the aromas show gorgeous breadth and volume. Pastry, brioche, dried flowers and mint all jump from the glass. The style is boisterous and intense, yet all the elements are in the right place. Nombre d’Or Campanae Veteres Vites incorporates all six of the grape varieties allowed in Champagne. The blend is 25% Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc, 20% Pinot Noir, 20% Petit Meslier, 15% Chardonnay, 15% Arbanne and 5% Pinot Meunier. The Chardonnay was done in oak while all the other grapes were fermented in tank. This bottle was disgorged in March 2013. Dosage was 3 grams/liter.”

L. Aubry Fils Le Nombre d’Or Sable Blanc des Blancs 2008 ($79.95) $69 special

L. Aubry Fils Le Nombre d’Or Sable Blanc des Blancs 2007 ($89.95) $79 special
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Made from 30% chardonnay, 30% petit meslier, 20% arbanne and 20% pinot blanc, with a very low dosage of 2 g/l; disgorged June, 2012):  Light yellow.  Intensely perfumed bouquet of orchard fruits, tangerine, chamomile and anise, along with a suggestion of ginger and a mounting floral element.  Firm and dry in the mouth, with chewy pear skin and citrus flavors giving way to deeper peach and nectarine on the back half.  Shows a suave blend of richness and energy, finishing very long, with lingering spiciness and minerality.”

L. Aubry Fils Nicolas Francois Sable Rose Brut 2008 ($89.95) $77 special
Pungently fragrant. Relatively delicate in body. Pure, silky flavors of strawberry and red cherry are vinous and energetic.

Andre Clouet Brut Millesime 2000 ($61.95) $51.90 special

Andre Clouet Brut Millesime 2007 ($69.95) $59 special
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The 2007 Brut Millesime emerges from the glass with dried pears, hazelnuts, pastry, spices and savory herbs. A soft, inviting Champagne, the 2007 impresses for its soft, inviting personality. The 2007 is a great choice for drinking today and over the next handful of years. The Brut Millesime is mostly Pinot, with 30-40% Chardonnay.”

Andre Clouet Un Jour de 1911… Brut NV ($99.95) $79 special
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “The NV Grand Cru Cuvee 1911 emerges from the glass with the most haunting of perfumes. Sweet rose petal and jasmine are some of the nuances that emerge over time. Despite recent disgorgement, the purity of the fruit and the extraordinary elegance of the mousse are hard to miss. This is an exceptional, elegant version of the 1911 that should drink beautifully for years to come. The bottle I tasted needed quite a bit of air to open up, so readers should be patient with the wine at this stage.”

Andre Clouet Grande Reserve Brut NV($39.95) $33 special
Antonio Galloni 90 points “The NV Brut Grande Reserve emerges from the glass with layers of hazelnut, pear, spice and dried flower aromas. This rich, creamy wine impresses for its balance and sheer richness. I loved it.”

Andre Clouet Silver Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature NV ($39.95) $33 special
100% Grand Cru, 100% Pinot Noir, no dosage
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The NV Brut Nature Silver is naturally a very focused, driven wine given the no-dosage style. This shows wonderful nuance and depth all the way through to the long finish, with bright aromas and flavors but less of the toastiness than some of the house’s other wines. The mousse and finish are both utterly impeccable in their elegance.”

FRANCE- BURGUNDY
Domaine Pierre Guillemot Bourgogne Rouge 2012($27.95) $24 special
From vineyards located in the low hills of the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, average age of 30 years and grown in limestone soil with gravel.

FRANCE- BORDEAUX
Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou Saint Julien 2010 ($399.95) $319 special
Robert Parker 98+ points “With loads of minerality, a terrific opaque purple color, and slightly more structure and tannin than either Poyferre or St.Pierre (and that’s saying something), this is a blockbuster, fabulous Ducru Beaucaillou that should be at its best a good decade from now and last 40-50 years. The proprietor is not alone in thinking this is the finest Ducru Beaucaillou since the 1961. The classic wet rock, creme de cassis, subtle oak and gravelly stoniness of the vineyard come through in this spectacular, full-bodied, gorgeously pure and intense effort. This is wine for the ages that should be forgotten for at least a decade.”

FRANCE- RHONE
Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot 2011 750ML ($159.95) $135 special
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Inky purple.  Sexy, mineral-laced black and blue fruit aromas are complemented by notes of licorice, violet and black tea.  Juicy and precise, offering intense boysenberry and bitter cherry flavors and a touch of spicecake that gains strength with aeration.  The floral note comes back strong on the strikingly persistent finish, which is firmed by dusty, fine-grained tannins.  Plenty deep and intense but comes off as a bit more lithe than the even deeper and sappier Reynard.”

Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard 2011 750ML ($179.95) $149 special
Stephen Tanzer 93-94 points “Opaque purple.  Spicy, highly perfumed aromas of cassis, blueberry, candied violet and smoky minerals.  Densely packed, fresh and delineated, offering energetic flavors of black and blue fruits and floral pastilles.  Shows a restrained sweetness on the finish, which features slow-building tannins and a strong echo of minerality.  This wine was scheduled to be bottled about a week after I tasted it from its holding tank.”

FRANCE- SOUTHERN
Chateau La Haut Borie Monbazillac 2010 ($21.95) $18 special
A sweet blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle, only wine made from grapes that are affected by botrytis can be sold under the Monbazillac designation.

ITALY- PIEDMONT
G. B. Burlotto Barolo DOCG 2010 375ML ($27.95) $24 special
G. B. Burlotto Barolo DOCG 2010 750ML(49.95) $39 special
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2010 Barolo is gorgeous. Silky and polished to the core, the 2010 graces the palate with sweet red cherries, raspberries, flowers, menthol and spices. The flavors are bright, punchy and beautifully articulated throughout. Even today, the tannins are remarkably finessed, making the 2010 virtually impossible to resist young. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with an exquisite Barolo to savor over many years. This is a great introduction to the vintage at Burlotto.”

G. B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($69.95) $79 special
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “The 2010 Barolo Vigneto Monvigliero is as reticent as it is beautiful. With time in the glass, some of the aromas and flavors start to release, but the 2010 is mostly a wine of texture at this stage. Whereas the 2009 was open and resonant, the 2010 is a wine that demands the taster’s full attention. Bright red berries, mint, spices and crushed rocks are some of the many notes that flow through to the chiseled finish. Hints of iron, savory herbs, tar and game add to this super-distinctive Barolo.”

ITALY-TUSCANY
Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2010 ($34.95) $28 special
James Suckling 93 points, Antonio Galloni 92+ points “Classicists, on the other hand, will flip out over the 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva. Black cherry, plum, smoke and menthol notes all jump out of the glass. The 2010 is translucent yet also rich, powerful and impeccably balanced. Ideally readers should cellar the 2010 for at least a few years, but that is going to be difficult considering how beautiful the wine is today.” AG

Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Rancia 2010 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special
Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Rancia 2010 1.5 LITER ($119.95) $99 special
Antonio Galloni 95+ points “The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is cool, inward and reserved at this stage. Much less expressive than it was from barrel, today the 2010 appears to be in a closed phase. There is so much tension in the glass, though, and I can hardly wait to see where the 2010 goes over the coming years. A burst of mineral and floral infused fruit lingers on the polished, nuanced finish. Today, the 2010 seems to bring together the finesse of 2004 with the structure and power of the 2010. A pretty magical combination, if you ask me.”

Felsina Fontalloro Toscana IGT 2010 ($59.95) $51.90 special
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “The 2010 Fontalloro (Sangiovese) is impeccable. A sweet, open bouquet melds into expressive red fruits. Compared to the 2010 Rancia, Fontalloro is a decidedly more delicate, feminine wine. All the elements are very nicely balanced. I expect the 2010 will enjoy a fairly broad window of drinkability. Today I give the 2010 a very slight nod over the 2009, only because I think the 2010 will age a little longer, but both are striking.”

ITALY- VENETO
Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2004 750ML ($399.95) $349 special
Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2004 1.5 LITER (899.95) $799 special
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is insanely beautiful. A dark, mysterious beauty, the 2004 hits the palate with masses of black fruit, tobacco, smoke, licorice and incense. The 2004 is constantly changing in the glass, as it reveals layer after layer of flavor and pure nuance. Readers will have to be patient with the 2004, but it is spectacular. I tasted the 2004 just after bottling, and will not be surprised if it is even better with more time in bottle. The huge, voluptuous finish bodes well for the future. Readers who can find the 2004 should not hesitate. This is another magical 2004 from Quintarelli.”

Almost Arrivals
Here This Week

Orin Swift E-2 Locations Spanish Red ($21.95) $18 special
Robert Parker 93 points “I reviewed these Locations offerings from Dave Phinney of Orin-Swift Cellars last year, who is going against all conventional wisdom of vineyard and vintage dating wines. Terroirists will claim the devil has possessed Phinney, as his offerings from France, Italy and Spain are all blends from different sectors of each country. If you judge wines on how they taste and the degree of pleasure they offer, they are all incredible efforts. The three new cuvees I tasted are among the finest wine values one could hope to find. As of now, Dave Phinney might be my “value winemaker of the year” candidate. P.S. It’s too expensive for this report, but I am including it as an hommage to what Dave Phinney has achieved. If there are better wines for under $20 a bottle in the world today, please share that information with The Wine Advocate.”

Clos De La Roilette Fleurie 2011 ($21.95) $17.70 special
Clos De La Roilette Fleurie 2012 ($22.95) $19.90 special
Clos De La Roilette Fleurie Cuvee Tardive 2012 ($34.95) $29 special
Importer notes “The Clos de la Roilette, in the village of Fleurie, covers nine hectares of one of the best slopes in the Beaujolais Crus. The clos has an eastern exposure, borders the Moulin-à-Vent appellation, and produces wines that are beautiful when young and have the capacity to age 5-10 years. The Couderts say their particular terroir (mainly clay and manganese), and the age of their vines (25 to 33 years-old) account for the richness of their wine. It has a deep blackcurrant color with a hint of purple, a restrained nose of crème de cassis, a rich, full mouth with aromas of cassis, black cherries, and a nutty character, and finishes with zesty acidity.”

L’Ecole 41 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2010 ($49.95) $39 special
Wine Advocate 93 points “Along the same lines and focusing on Pepper Bridge Vineyard, the 2010 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard (56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 4% Cabernet Franc that sees the same treatment in the winery as the Perigee) offers up a deeper, mineral-laced profile of black currant, tobacco, earth and crushed stone. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with great mid-palate depth and building tannin, it too needs a handful of years to round into shape and will have an easy 15 years of ultimate longevity. Drink 2016-2025.”

L’Ecole 41 Perigee Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2010 ($49.95) $41.90 special
Wine Advocate 93 points “One of the estate-s single vineyard releases that focuses on the Seven Hills Vineyard that-s located in the southwestern part of the Walla Walla Valley, the 2010 Perigee Estate Seven Hills Vineyard is comprised of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. Spending 22 months in 50% new French oak, it-s a knockout effort that has full-bodied richness and depth as well as beautifully complex aromas and flavors of black cherries, raspberry, spice box, underbrush and toast. Concentrated, layered and with plenty of ripe tannin, it needs 2-3 years of bottle age and will drink beautifully through 2025. Drink 2016-2025.”

Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2012 ($24.95) $19 special
Wine Advocate 91 points “A fantastic effort that also represents a smoking value, the 2012 Cabernet Franc boast thrilling notes of violets, wild flowers, black raspberry and mulberry styled fruits to go with a medium to full-bodied, voluptuously textured style on the palate. Showing the purity and focus of the vintage, this beauty will have over a decade of prime drinking.”

Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2011 ($34.95) $27 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “A fabulous success in the vintage, the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon is an age worthy effort that gives up classic currant and plum styled fruits, licorice, earth and lead pencil shavings to go with a full-bodied, beautifully concentrated and layered profile on the palate. Opening up a time in the glass and showing impressive mid-palate depth and fine tannin on the finish, it can be consumed anytime over the coming 10 to 12 years.”

Champagne of the Week
Pierre Peters Reserve Blanc de Blancs

Rodolphe Péters, Pierre Peters’ grandson, took over the reins of this venerable estate in the southern Côte des Blancs in 2008, becoming the fourth generation of Peters’ to lead the estate, producing beautiful 100% Chardonnay Champagne. The Pierre Peters estate consists of 18 hectares of vineyards, predominantly in the grand cru of Les Mesnil-sur-Oger along with smaller holdings in several other grand crus (Oger, Avize and Cramant). These great terroirs, all Grand Cru, all Chardonay, are located a few miles south of Epernay and lay on a chalk outcrop, providing plenty of water to the vines. The hillside vineyards are oriented to the east, protecting them against the westerly winds. Péters viticulture is environmentally conscious without being dogmatic. Very sensitive to the quality of their vineyards, Rodolphe uses sustainable farming methods and aims to produce the best grapes, naturally. The very simplistic wine-making and low dosage add a further dimension and complexity to the wine that make it a perfect drink for pretty much anytime of the year and day. The Cuvée Reserve goes from strength to strength every year and is now one of the most sought-after of non-vintage Champagnes. The blend includes nearly 15 years of harvests, though a good portion is of the newest vintage available, all sourced from their own Grand Cru vineyards.

Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve Blanc De Blancs NV 375ML ($37.95) $33 special
Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve Blanc De Blancs NV 750ML ($59.95) $51.90 special
Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve Blanc De Blancs NV 1.5 LITER ($149.95) $119 special
Burghound 93 points “A stunningly elegant nose of pure floral, Granny Smith apples, spice and freshly sliced lemon complements to perfection the intense and equally pure flavors that possess excellent punch like remain delicate and ultra-refined on the balanced and persistent finish. The supporting mousse displays a very find bead and the overall impression is one of subtlety and grace. Not only is this a wonderful effort but the value it offers it beyond stunning.”

JL Chave
2011 Hermitage and Saint Joseph
Arriving Late July

For over five centuries, the Chave family has been producing Hermitage wines of extraordinary quality and complexity.  The current producers, Jean-Louis Chave and his father, Gerard, draw from the accumulated wisdom transmitted down through the generations of Chaves that began making Hermitage in 1481.

The family has 37 acres of vineyards in Hermitage and draw from their numerous lieu-dits scattered around the hill of Hermitage (L’Hermite, Peleat, Meal to name a few) to produce their Hermitage Rouge and Blanc. A blend of cuvees, the fruit in the Hermitage Rouge varies from year to year depending upon the strength of the individual climats, but the Bessards, their most revered plot located on a steep granite slope, always plays a starring role. In their Hermitage Blanc, the 100 year old monopole Peleat is the core of the blend, providing the old vine Marsanne that comprises 85% of the Blanc, the remaining 15% Rousanne. In addition to their benchmark Hermitage wines, Chave has long made a beautiful traditionally styled St. Joseph Rouge, crafted from Chave’s original estate vineyards in the historic center of the appellation, showing excellent balance and longevity, with aromas of black raspberries, black olives, violets and smoke.

All of their wines are crafted from vineyards with an average vine age of 60 years, each terroir vinified seperately. The grapes are partially destemmed and fermented in wood vats and cement for an average of 18 months before blending. The Chave’s methods for all of their wines are traditional- low yields, full ripeness, minimal new oak, and no filtering. An unmatched attention to detail and centuries of traditions all go into these pure expressions of the Northern Rhone, offered below.

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Saint-Joseph Rouge 2011 ($79.95) $66 special 3+ cases available
Wine Advocate 93 points “Tasted out of bottle and a smoking St.-Joseph that savvy readers need to seek out, the 2011 St.-Joseph (which was just bottled prior to this tasting) offers gorgeous richness and depth, especially in the vintage. Black currants, charcoal, mineral, bouquet garni and ample background meatiness all emerge from the glass, and this medium to full-bodied beauty has brilliant purity of fruit, a great texture and fine tannin that should allow it to evolve gracefully. It’s a fantastic value that should not be missed!”

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 2011 ($319.95) $249 special 14 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 points “Just bottled, the 2011 Hermitage Blanc also shows the richer side of Hermitage with its full-bodied, voluptuously textured and up-front profile. Honeysuckle, licorice, toast, citrus oil and liquid mineral-like qualities all emerge from this beauty, and it stays beautifully fresh and focused on the palate. A blend of mostly Marsanne, yet with roughly 20% Roussanne, from the l’Ermite, Les Rocoules, Maison Blanche and Peleat lieux-dits, this substantial white should be consumed over the coming 2-4 years, or forgotten for a decade or more. It will have over two decades of longevity.”

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge 2011 ($319.95) $219 super special 3+ cases available
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge 2011 1.5L ($649.95) $499 special 2 magnums available
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge 2011 3L ($1,799.95) $1399 special 1 double magnum available
Wine Advocate 96-98 points “The 2011 Hermitage (also still in barrel), in comparison, is more focused and straight, with a slightly more serious feel to its tannin profile and overall structure. All of the samples (again, tasted in individual components) were beautifully perfumed, with the Les Bessards (which will make up the bulk of the blend) showing surprising density and concentration in a vintage that generally produced more up-front and supple wines. A serious 2011 that will certainly be one of the stars of the vintage, it should be reasonably approachable on release and have an easy two decades of longevity.”

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge 2008 1.5L ($449.95) $289 special 5 magnums available
Wine Spectator 94 points “This is suave, with a smoldering tobacco note running from start to finish, while truffle, cocoa, braised fig and warm black currant confiture notes fill in the remaining space. Dense, but very silky along the edges, with remarkable harmony for the vintage.”

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin 2000 ($2999.95) $2499 special very limited, 1 bottle available
OFF-SITE STORAGE. 1-2 DAYS FOR FULFILLMENT
Robert Parker 96 points “Surprisingly, there will be about 200 cases produced of a 2000 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin. Based on earlier visits, I thought this cuvee would not be produced again as the Chaves were embarrassed by all the attention previous offerings received. However, they will continue to produce it as long as it does not detract from their classic cuvee. The Cuvee Cathelin displays more new oak than the regular bottling as well as firmer tannin, yet also great length, palate presence, and structure. Boasting a chocolatey, blackberry nose, huge intensity, and super elegance and finesse, it will require 5-6 years of cellaring.  Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040. This family-run estate continues to go from strength to strength, with the father and son (Gerard and Jean-Louis) team pushing all the right buttons to achieve success at all quality levels.”

JL Chave Selections Saint Joseph ‘Offerus’ 2010 ($34.95) $27 special 2+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Deep, vivid ruby.  High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of cherry, black raspberry and fresh flowers.  Offers an array of red and dark berry flavors that gain flesh and sweetness with air.  Packs a serious punch but comes off as energetic, with no excess weight.  Closes with resonating spiciness and sneaky, fine-grained tannins that fold smoothly into the sappy fruit.  Jean-Louis noted that there is a bigger dose of Chave domain fruit than usual in this year’s version of Offerus.”

JL Chave Selections Saint Joseph ‘Offerus’ 2006 ($34.95) $29 special 7 bottles available
Wine Spectator 91 points “Very bright and racy, with mouthwatering damson plum, crushed cherry, lavender, iron and tobacco notes that race through the well-focused finish. Long and pure, with a lingering spice note.”

Dominique Lafon Bourgogne Blanc 2010 ($34.95) $24 special 3 cases available
Antonio Galloni “The 2010 Bourgogne Blanc is gorgeous. It reveals lovely depth and roundness, with expressive fruit, nuanced aromatics and tremendous overall balance. This is an unusually refined wine within its peer group. The 2010 was made from grapes sourced in St. Veran. Beginning in 2011, the Bourgogne will include fruit from Meursault that Lafon gained access to through the purchase of Domaine Manuel. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. These are the first wines I have tasted from Dominique Lafon’s new label, which he directs entirely on his own. Dominique Lafon is making his wines in a slightly different style than he has become known for at Comtes Lafon, his family’s iconic estate in Meursault. The Dominique Lafon wines are a little bit more laid back and restrained.”

Domaine Armand Rousseau is revered as one of the grand old domaines of Burgundy, resplendent with 14 hectares (half Grand Crus), noble old vines, and a long history of fantastic winemaking. Armand Rousseau founded this famous Burgundy domaine, located in Gevrey, in the 1920s, basing the winery in the Combe de Lavaut.

Armand Rousseau was at the forefront of the first wave of domaine bottling in the 1930s and quickly established the domaine as one of the greatest in Burgundy, while continuing to expand his vineyard holdings. He was succeeded by his son Charles in 1959, shortly after they had bought a significant slice of the Clos St Jacques vineyard. In 1982, Eric, Charles’ son joined the team after completing studies at the Lycée Agricole et Viticole of Mâcon Davayé and one year of specializing in oenology at Dijon University.

While Charles Rousseau may still be present at the winery, his son Eric has taken over wine making responsibilities since 1982, along with many younger members of the Rousseau family, including Eric’s daughter Cyrielle, who recently joined the family operation in 2012 after studying oeneology in Burgundy and Oregon. Compared to twenty years ago, Eric’s presence can be most clearly seen in the vineyard. Viticulture is significantly more precise and yields are now mastered through green harvesting, using leaf removal and mechanical work of the soil without use of insecticides or chemical additions.

The simple principle of old vines and restricted yields dictates the Rousseau style and Eric has changed little in the cellars since taking over, producing  finely structured wines of great elegance and longevity. Rousseau retains around 15 per cent of the stems, giving tannin and structure to the wines and aerating the juice and skins. After de-stemming, the grapes are cooled to 15°C then macerated for 18-20 days, without heating or other temperature control. Punching down and pumping over are both used. The wines are then sent to barrel, with the same percentage of new oak being followed each year, except for the Clos St Jacques which may vary.

Under the helm of Eric, Domaine Rousseau offers consistent quality across the range, including their three most rare and sough after wines; Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Bèze and Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques, considered among the greatest wines in Burgundy.

Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2011 ($1799.95) $1499 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer  95+ points “Bright, deep red, darker than the 2012 today.  Wild, soil-driven aromas of blueberry, violet, black pepper, leather and game.  Lush, velvety and compellingly sweet, with a magically fine-grained texture and outstanding concentration to the dark berry, violet and earth flavors.  This is fat with fruit, and the noble tannins allow the back end to open and expand.  Compared to the 2012 version, this may show a bit less inner-mouth tension but it’s richer and more complex at this stage.”

Armand Rousseau Charmes Chambertin 2011 ($599.95) $499 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer & Burghound 89-92 points “(two-thirds from Mazoyeres):  Good full medium red.  Expressive nose melds redcurrant, mocha, rust, minerals and flowers, plus a suggestion of game birds.  Sweet, smoky and nicely concentrated, with a musky quality to the complex flavors of redcurrant, smoky minerality, mocha and game.  Finishes with supple tannins and excellent length.  Very Gevrey.” ST

Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos De Beze 2010 ($1999.95) $1599 special 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 97 points “Bright, saturated deep red.  Incredible multidimensional nose combines cherry, raspberry, gunflint, crushed rock, flowers and oak spices; youthfully reserved but already remarkably complex.  Thick but magically light on its feet, with penetrating red fruit flavors framed and carried by explosive salty minerality.  This wonderfully vibrant, refined wine is showing no sign of shutting down but it’s hard to imagine that it won’t go through a sullen stage on its way to peak maturity in 12 to 15 years.  The sweet but firmly structured finish saturates the palate with red fruits, minerals and spices.”

Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos De Beze 2011 ($1799.95) $1499 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94+ points “Good dark red.  Expressive aromas of blueberry, woodsmoke, earth and game, plus an ineffable floral complexity.  Moderately sweet and very intense, with purple fruit and spice flavors conveying an impression of energy.  Tight, serious wine with outstanding breadth and a firm tannic spine to support a slow and graceful evolution in bottle.  Leaves behind intense black- and blueberry flavors on the building aftertaste.  In November, Rousseau told me he preferred 2011 to 2012 but noted that the ’12s demonstrated their terroir character more accurately.”

Armand Rousseau Clos De La Roche 2010 ($599.95) $399 special 4 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “A well-layered and dense nose features notes of anise, earth, underbrush, violets and both red and blue pinot fruit aromas. There is very good volume to the large-scaled and dense yet quite supple flavors that possess excellent length. This is impeccably well-balanced and should require 15 years or so to arrive at its peak.”

Armand Rousseau Clos St Jacques 2011 ($999.95) $899 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93+ points “Good full red.  Spicy red berries, cherry, licorice and a hint of horseradish on the nose.  Juicy, brisk and taut; not hugely fleshy but energetic and penetrating.  Conveys an impression of density without weight in the manner of the best 2011s.  Tightly wound and very backward, finishing with terrific spicy persistence.  Eric Rousseau bottled his 2011s in April of 2013; his bottles now have the domain name embossed on the bottom of the glass.”

Armand Rousseau Lavaux St Jacques 2011 ($399.95) $349 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 89-91 points “This is also reduced and here it’s enough to render the nose unreadable. There is plenty of energy and precision to the intensely mineral-tinged medium-bodied flavors that possess an elegant mouth feel on the youthfully austere finish. A classic Lavaut that should reward 8 to 10 years of cellar time.”

Armand Rousseau Mazy Chambertin 2011($599.95) $499 special 2 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer & Burghound 91-93 points “Good bright, deep red.  Wild, vibrant nose offers black cherry, black raspberry, minerals and spices; conveys a small-berry feel.  At once dense and juicy; more masculine than the Charmes-Chambertin but also sappy and fined-grained.  In a more backward style but already conveys excellent soil accuracy.  Finishes with serious but well-buffered tannins and strong soil tones.” ST

Armand Rousseau Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru 2010 ($799.95) $699 special 4 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95-97 points “The 2010 Ruchottes-Chambertin is an intensely cool, reticent wine. The bouquet recalls the Mazis, but then the firm Ruchottes tannins set in. Ultimately the Ruchottes is built on purity, definition and nuance. The chiseled aromas and flavors possess stunning detail, but it will be some time before the 2010 is ready to drink. Still, I very much like the energy and drive. Bright, floral notes add lift and vibrancy on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045.”

Armand Rousseau Ruchottes Chambertin Grand Cru 2011 ($699.95) $599 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92-95 points “Bright, deep color.  Wild, musky, ripe dark berries, black cherry and botanical herbs on the captivating nose.  Dense and sappy, offering an exhilarating high-wire act of sweetness and acidity.  Complex flavors of black raspberry, licorice and game birds.  Seriously concentrated, expressive grand cru with great purity and round, mouth-saturating tannins.  In its tension and fruit persistence, this is close to a 2010 in style; the same could be said for Rousseau’s Mazy-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche.”

Atalon Pauline’s Cuvee Napa Valley Red 2010 ($29.95) $19.90 special
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “This Merlot-based blend is a huge success. It’s a big, tannic, tight wine, packed to bursting with black cherry liqueur, cola and spice flavors. Yet it maintains an exciting balance, with the tension between acids, tannins and oak in equilibrium. Seems like it wants 5-6 years in the cellar to let it throw some tannins and mellow.”