Vinopolis Newsletter – Wednesday 12/06/2023

Pingus ‘PSI’, Ribera del Duero 2021 750ml $33 pre-arrival special
CASE of 12 750ml Pingus Psi Ribera Del Duero 2021 $359 pre-arrival special
Vinous 96 Points “The 2021 PSI is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha sourced from old vines planted in calcareous soils and was aged for up to 16 months in mostly sizeable French oak barrels. In the glass, it’s garnet-red with a light purple sheen. The nose offers blood notes along with sour cherry and blackberry, intertwined with violets and dried flowers, resulting in a layered, complex profile. On the palate, it’s dry and velvety. Chalky tannins define a compact mouthfeel and longlasting fruit and floral flavors. The 2021 is a distinctive Ribera del Duero with excellent nuance and agility.”

 

Founded in 1993 by Peter Sisseck, Pingus has grown into one of the biggest cult wineries on the planet. Sisseck, a Danish born winemaker had fallen in love with the Ribera Del Duero and its native clone of Tempranillo, Tinto Fino. His work elevated the region to an unprecedented level of international acclaim and interest. This wine project, Pingus PSI, came from a cooperative effort at the behest of Sisseck by nearby grape growers to restore the soil and vineyard practices of many old vine plantings in the surrounding Duero region.
 

R. Dumont Tradition Brut, Champagne NV 750ml $33 special, 36+ bottles available
R. Dumont Brut Tradition, Champagne NV 375ml $21.90 special, 16 bottles available
Wine Notes “90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay”

R. Dumont Brut Nature Blanc De Noirs NV 750ml $41.90 special, 12 bottles available
VertdeVin “The nose is fruity and quite gourmand. It reveals notes of lemon associated with a touch of lime, flowers, red fruit (discreet) and white fruit. The palate is fruity, mineral, harmonious, suave and offers freshness and a chalky minerality. The effervescence is very fine and well conducted. In the mouth this Champagne expresses notes of lemon, apple and slight notes of lime associated with a touch of exotic fruit, pear as well as slight touches of limestone / saline minerality on the finish. Good length.”
 
R. Dumont Brut Rose NV 750ml $39 special, 36 bottles available
Andreas Larsson “Dark rosé or light red colour with a copper hue and mild mousse. Generous nose offering crushed red berries, plum, fig and gingerbread spices. Soft and supple palate, gently creamy with a rounded acidity, sweet fruit flavours and a rather long aftertaste.”

Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2021 750ml $999 special, only 2 bottles available
Neil Martin-Vinous 95-97 points “The 2021 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru comes from five lieux-dits. This was slightly more reduced than the Clos Saint-Denis, dark berry fruit, briary; a faint touch of seaweed emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-sculpted tannins, harmonious and tensile, again, discretely building with a transparent, lightly peppered finish that lingers in the mouth.”

Marguet Ambonnay Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne 2018 750ml $69 pre-arrival special, 7 bottles available
James Suckling 95 Points “A generous and mellow wine with caramelized quince and orange blossom aromas, plus a tiny hint of something balsamic that makes this compelling. Powerful, but also austerely mineral, energetic and very structured, this breaks the rules in a beautiful way. Long, slightly austere baked apple finish. A cuvee of 63% pinot noir and 37% chardonnay. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Disgorged in March 2023. Drink or hold.”

Champagne Marguet Avize Grand Cru, Champagne 2018 750ml $69 pre-arrival special
Wine Note “Blend of 63% Pinot Noir and 37% Chardonnay”
James Suckling 94 Points “A very original interpretation of this famous terroir that has a striking nose of lime zest, but more importantly a whole field of wild flowers and wild herbs. Such chalky texture on the medium body, then a fascinating completely dry finish with dried flowers. Disgorged in February 2023. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”

Champagne Marguet Ambonnay Freedom Grand Cru 2018 750ml $69 pre-arrival special, 4 bottles available
Wine Notes “Certified Organic and Bio-Dynamic”

Champagne Marguet Bouzy Grand Cru 2017 750ml $79 pre-arrival special, just 1 bottle arriving!
Wine Note “100% Pinot Noir.”

 
“In 2014, Pierre Fresne undertook a new adventure by creating exceptional wines and champagnes in limited series for connoisseurs. Since then, he has produced one or two of these unique wines each year, according to his desires and the profile of the vintage. This collection is called Arquémie, that’s what alchemy was called in the Middle Ages. Described as “a truly royal science and an undoubtedly divine study…it makes a thousand different waters, a thousand oils, numerous liqueurs without which one could not live comfortably or even live at all”, Arquémie embodies the spirit of this range micro-cuvées.”

Fresne Ducret Le Chemin Du Chemin Premier Cru NV, Champagne 750ml $44.50 special, 18 bottles available
Wine Enthusiast Roger Voss 94 Points “This Champagne shows some fine maturity. A blend based on the 2014 vintage, it now has toastiness while keeping intense freshness. Acidity and touches of minerality come through the spiciness. Drink now.”
Fresne Ducret Arquemie No 2 Premier Cru Blanc De Blancs NV, Champagne 750ml $59 special, 12 bottles available
Fresne Ducret Arquemie No 6 Premier Cru Blanc De Noirs NV, Champagne 750ml $59 special, 12 bottles available

Jose Michel Special Club 2014 750ml $69 special, 12 bottles available
Winery Notes “This Prestige cuvee blended with 50% Meunier and 50% Chardonnay, some of which is produced from vines of over 70 years old, is patiently aged across many years in the darkness of our cellars and reveals the superb alchemy between two contrasting and yet complementary grape varieties. This Cuvée is made according to the very sought-after “Club Trésor de Champagne” charter that can only be claimed by 25 Champagne Wine Growers.”

“This is another terrific vintage for Raphaël Coche, who exuded an easy confidence when I saw him in the aftermath of the 2020 vintage, which makes complete sense when one has the wines in the glass. Coche compares the style of 2020 with 1990, a comparison he isn’t the only producer to draw, and in the wines’ combination of flesh, precision, energy and immediate charm, it makes a lot of sense. In previous vintage reports, I’ve devoted much ink to the subtle stylistic evolution that has taken place at this address in the 21st century, so I won’t reprise all that now. Suffice it to say that this is a superb set of wines from one of Burgundy’s most perfectionist, passionate producers.”

Famille Dutraive- these wines represent the finest négociant wines the Dutraive family produces. 

Distributor’s Note “From a single parcel of very rocky old alluvial soils that is certified organic. The parcel is 50 years old on a high plateau at 260m elevation. Vinification is carbonic in concrete. Unfiltered and unfined.”

The Grand’Cour represents wines produced from the family’s own vineyard. 
Dutraive Domaine de la Grand’Cour Fleurie Cuvee Vieilles Vignes ‘Champagne’, Beaujolais 2021 750ml $49 pre-arrival special, 4 bottles arriving

Importer’s Note “Lieu-dit Champagne is Jean-Louis Dutraive’s most alluring wine. It is a reference for the grand potential of Gamay, offering a wine that is rich and joyful with a long capacity for aging. According to Jean-Louis, the vineyard name simply means “campagne” or countryside in local dialect, and since the name predates the famous sparkling wine, the Beaujolais is granted historic authority use it on their labels.”

 
Dutraive Grand’Cour Fleurie, Beaujolais 750ml 2021 $41.90 pre-arrival special, 12 bottles arriving
Dutraive Grand’Cour Fleurie, Beaujolais 1.5L 2021 750ml $99 pre-arrival special, 3 bottles arriving
 

J.B. Becker Eltviller Sonnenberg Riesling Spatlese, Rheingau 2021 750ml $33 special, 12 bottles available
Hannah’s Pick “J.B Becker produces grower Rieslings that are full of power, flavor, and elegance. In a market saturated with different styles and prices of Riesling, J.B. Becker mustn’t go unnoticed. These wines remind me of a classic style of Rheingau in that they are bright and textured, with perfectly ripe fruit. This Spatlese has notes of stone and citrus fruit on the nose, with primary flavors of nectarine, grapefruit, and balanced salinity developing on the palate. The structure of this wine is sharp and textured, with an expressive and off dry finish that pairs beautifully with a spicy curry or a cured meat board.”

Lambert Chateau De Breze Cremant De Loire Rose, France NV 750ml $21.90 special, 10 bottles available
Tracy’s Pick “Superb bang for your buck. Also just superb. This Methode Champenoise sparkler is made from 100% cabernet franc so that means tones of raspberry with a bit of black pepper and great acidity. This is my new favorite wine to pair with rich, peppery foods like Cacio Pepe or roasted chicken. Lambert never disappoints me.”

Hannah’s Pick “If you are looking for an orange or Umbrian wine, this is the wine to try. Made from the white grape varietal Trebbiano, this wine shows a rich golden color in the glass due to the skin contact and time spent on lees during the fermentation process. This style creates a palate that is both complex and resolved revealing flavors of orange peel, apricots, and florals. These flavors are balanced by secondary notes of ginger and salinity that pair well with the textured and dry finish.”

Peter Lauer Kern Fass 9 Riesling 2022 750ml $49 special, 2 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 93 Points “The 2022er “Kern” N°9, as it is referred to in the central part of the label, is a fully off-dry wine (with 33 g/l of residual sugar) made from fruit picked in a complete cross section (bottom to top) of a prime south-west-facing old-vine parcel (called Kern) situated well into the side valley on the original Ayler Kupp hill. It offers a beautifully refined and herbal nose of wild spices, orange blossom, mint, lime, and white pepper, as well as slightly riper notes of vineyard peach candied grapefruit, and almond. The wine is superbly playful on the elegantly zesty and spicy palate. The finish proves energetic, refined, and straight. The after-taste is already dryish in style. This is a great just off-dry tasting Riesling. 2025-2042”
 
Peter Lauer Kupp Fass 10 Auslese Riesling 2022 375ml $49 special, 3 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 94+ Points “The 2022er Kupp Auslese N°10, as it is referred to in the central part of the label, was made from partially (15%) botrytized fruit harvested on the whole original Kupp hill and was fermented down to fully sweet levels of residual sugar (95 g/l). This offers a still very primary yet superbly complex and layered nose of bakery elements, almond cream, candied pineapple, coconut cream, aniseed, smoky bacon, and yellow flowers. The wine is superbly smooth and sweet on the comparatively light-weighted and delicate palate. The finish proves juicy and smooth, yet the after-taste brings freshness and liveliness as plenty of candied citrusy fruits kick in. This needs at least a decade to fully integrate its sweetness and fully shine. 2032-2072”
 
Peter Lauer Kupp Fass 7 Spatlese Riesling 2022 750ml $44.50 special, 5 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 92 Points “The 2022er Kupp Spätlese N°7, as it is referred to in the central part of the label, was made from fruit harvested in the whole original Kupp hill and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (74 g/l). Smoky and finely herbal on the nose, it delivers notes of anise, minty herbs, vineyard peach, jasmine, rose, lavender, and green apple. The wine proves delicately smooth and rich on the nicely compact and focused palate. The finish is precise, clean, and full of energy. This is a splendid Spätlese. 2032-2052”
 
Peter Lauer Kupp Fass 8 Kabinett Riesling 2022 750ml $36 special, 5 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 91 Points “The 2022er Kupp Kabinett N°8, as it is referred to in the central part of the label, was made from fruit harvested in the original Kupp hill and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (49 g/l). Very smoky and herbal at first, but also slightly reductive, it reveals elegant and refined notes of white flowers, citrusy fruits, yuzu, anise, and white pepper. The wine is full of tension and spices in the comparatively off-dry and playful palate. The finish is herbal and nervy. 
 
Peter Lauer Lambertskirch Riesling Kabinett 2022 750ml $49 special, 2 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 91 Points “The 2022er Lambertskirch Kabinett, as it is referred to in the central part of the label, was made from fruit harvested in this south-east facing Lieu-Dit overseeing the Saar, and was fermented down to fully fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (50 g/l). It offers a fully aromatic and appealing nose of pink grapefruit, candy floss, Conference pear, quince, minty herbs, and celery spices. The wine is nicely pure and light-weighted on the finely aromatic, refined, and smooth palate. There is good length and freshness in the finish. This is a superb drinking Kabinett. 2030-2042”
 
Peter Lauer Fass 17 Neuenberg Riesling 2022 750ml $52.50 special, 6 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 90+ Points “The 2022er Neuenberg N°17, as it is referred to in the central part of the label, is a barely off-dry wine (with 12 g/l of residual sugar) made from fruit picked in this prime Lieu-Dit forming the south-southwest facing, central part of the original Kupp hill (at the foot of the hill). It offers a very aromatic and rich nose of William’s pear, smoke, anise, thyme, violet, lime tree, and cherry. The wine is both juicy but also directly zesty and spicy, with a touch of tartness and earthy spices. There is good presence and structure and the finish proves intense and broad. It is a great barely off-dry Riesling, which needs a few years to reveal its facets. It even has some upside potential with time. 2025-2034”
 
Peter Lauer Stirn Fass 15 Riesling 2022 750ml $49 special, 6 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 92 Points “The 2022er “Stirn” N°15, as it is referred to in the central part of the label, is a fully off-dry wine (with 36 g/l of residual sugar) made from fruit picked in the prime south-west-facing, upper-front part of the original Ayler Kupp hill. It reveals a fully aromatic and appealing nose of yellow fruits (pineapple, Conference pear, and quince), candied grapefruit, tangerine, green apple, anise, oriental spices, and smoke. The wine proves fully off-dry on the palate as plenty of sweet and ripe fruits come through. The finish is structured and has more mineral elements with zesty and minty elements. This beautiful fully off-dry Riesling needs a few years to fully deliver. 2027-2042”
 
Peter Lauer Unterstenberg Fass 12 Riesling 2022 750ml $49 special, 6 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 91 Points “The 2022er Unterstenberg N°12, as it is referred to in the central part of the label, is a dry wine (with 8 g/l of residual sugar) made from fruit picked in the similarly-named prime Lieu-Dit forming the south-southwest facing, front part of the original Kupp hill (at the foot of the hill). It has a beautifully complex and smoky nose of candied lime, grapefruit zest, smoky bacon, ginger, almond, yuzu, and white flowers. The wine is superbly playful and refined on the palate, where some light creamy and juicy elements make for an appealing touch. The finish is beautifully spicy and herbal and already fully dry. 2025-2042”

Jean-Christophe, the current proprietor of this 300+ year-old domaine has taken the winery back to its traditions in order to preserve its future. With 15 hectares of biodynamically and sustainably farmed vines plus a non-interventionist winemaking style, these wines are natural and authentic, plus refined and delicious. The wines of Alsace used to be known as more off-dry, but at the same time palettes have been changing, warming climates have obliged consumers with much drier styles.

These are amazing wines on their own, but they really shine for food pairing!
 
Bott-Geyl Cremant d’Alsace Cuvee Paul-Edouard Extra Brut, France NV $29 special, 22 bottles available
 
Bott-Geyl Metiss Blanc, Alsace 2021 750ml $19.50 special, 17 bottles available
Vinous 88 Points “The 2021 Alsace Métiss is a blend of Muscat, Riesling, Sylvaner, Chasselas and Pinot Blanc, a contemporary take on the Edelzwicker blends of old. It is the only wine in the range that is certified Ecocert rather then Biodyvin, since a small amount of Muscat is bought from a grower for this blend. The nose is scented and fresh, full of spring blossom and lemon. The rounded palate follows suit, presenting fragrant peachiness and lovely, lemony richness – despite the slender body. A light, fragrant, and bone-dry aperitif, ideal for a summer table.”
 
Bott-Geyl Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz, Alsace Grand Cru 2013 750ml $45 special, 24 bottles available
Vinous 92+ Points “Vivid straw. Knockout nose is redolent of lemon verbena, ripe pear, grilled peach, nectarine and sweet spices complicated by spicy, lemony noble rot. Tactile, rich and utterly seamless in the mouth, with flavors similar to the aromas. I love this wine’s long, textured finish, which shows a spicy honeyed nuance (thanks to the presence of noble rot) that makes it absolutely irresistible. Since 2011, Bott harvests these grapes early to help preserve acidity.”
 
Bott-Geyl Riesling Schlossberg, Alsace Grand Cru 2018 750ml $51.90 special, 12 bottles available
Vinous 93 Points “The 2018 Riesling comes from a terraced, steep parcel at the top of Schlossberg Grand Cru, at its center, just below the forest, lending coolness. The granitic soils are weathered and poor, yields are small. The nose announces the ripeness and dryness of 2018 with a lifted scent of orange peel, golden apple and candied orange. The palate, likewise, is ripe and rounded, brimming with juicy, ripe Mirabelle that is edged with dried lemon peel freshness. A phenolic edge lends some welcome bitterness and more texture. The finish is dry and lasting, delving deeper into that stone. (Bone-dry)”
 
Domaine Bott-Geyl Riesling Schoenenbourg, Alsace Grand Cru 2018 750ml $51.90 special, 12 bottles available
Vinous 94 Points “The 2018 Riesling Schoenenbourg Grand Cru is from various parcels within the grand cru, between 20, 30 and 60 years old. The nose is totally open and lifted with dried yarrow and dried lemon peel. More air brings hints of dried and fresh yellow pear. The palate is focused, intense, linear and edged with utterly mouth-watering freshness. There is a lovely chalky texture while notions of candied orange peel pop up, yet a completely dry focus drives this to a refreshing finish. Again a contrast between nose and palate delivers intense, chalky length. (Bone-dry)”

White Port is a totally underrated variation on its cousins Ruby and Tawny. Serve chilled as an aperitif or even as a side for smoky cedar planked salmon or roasted pork. Think of it as a pre-dessert dessert wine.
Kopke Fine 20 Year White 375ml $49 special, 3 bottles available
Roger Voss – Wine Enthusiast 93 points “This wood-aged Port has a fine point of balance between fruit and old wood flavors. Its richness comes from the concentration and the acidity working in harmony. Drink the wine now.”
 
Available in three formats…
Dow’s Vintage Port, Portugal 2017 750ml $99 special, 19 bottles available
Dow’s Vintage Port, Portugal 2017 1.5L $219 special, 3 bottles available
Dow’s Vintage Port, Portugal 2017 375ml $59 special, 10 half bottles available
Neal Martin-Vinous 98 points “The 2017 Dow’s Vintage Port showed a slight reduction and required more time to really open in the glass. Typical of Dow’s it has a more backward and introspective bouquet compared to its peers, scents of blackberry, clove, wild mint, cassis and vanilla, gradually gaining more intensity with aeration. The palate is simply glorious. It is built around a compelling tannic frame that seems finer than any Dow’s I have encountered apart from the ethereal 2011. There is so much energy coiled up in this Port, a sense of symmetry that is enthralling and yet you just know that it needs to be cellared for 15-20 years for it to reveal its full potential. For serious Port-lovers. One of the vintages most cerebral offerings. Total production is 5,250 cases.”
James Suckling 98 points “Pure grape aromas that remind me of fermenting must but then goes to stems and dried flowers. Full-bodied, medium sweet with fine-grained tannins that coat your palate. Powerful and muscular yet remains agile and beautiful. Grows on your palate. Wonderful ripe fruit in the middle palate. Try after 2030.”
 
Finally, Don’t Forget about Tawny Port!

Kopke Colheita Tawny 1978 750ml $119 special, 5 bottles available
Nick Room-Iwsc 97 Points “Excellent in all aspects. Caramel and molasses on the nose, palate abundant with deeper toffee, vanilla and ripe prune. Cedar spices combine with fine citrus fruit around a red fruit core. Balanced and with further evolution still to come. Seriously good.”
Mark Squires-Wine Advocate 94 Points “The 1978 Colheita Tawny Port was bottled in 2015 with 119 grams per liter of residual sugar and a bar top cork (typical for the house). It is very graceful for its age, finishing with a wave of sweetness, fruit and sugar. Emphasizing the caramel more than the molasses, this is irresistibly delicious, but it becomes more complex and puts on weight as it airs and warms. The wine shows off its power and hints of Brandy on the rather tense finish, too. Overall, this is a beauty that becomes more impressive the longer you sit with it. Then, you realize that its balance is simply perfect, yet it stands out in most every category. This is very fine and the price is pretty nice for the age and the quality.”
Roger Voss-Wine Enthusiast 94 Points “Not one of the generally declared vintages for Port, this year produced some ripe, sweet single quinta vintages. It also was a good year for rich, sweet tawnies. This is ripe, toffee-like in character packed with ripe raisin and sultana flavors. It is a luxurious wine, of course ready to drink.”